Stem cells
Plant stem cells are of great interest for cosmetics. They contain the full potential for tissue formation and self-regeneration. They contain similar epigenetic factors as the stem cells of human skin, with which they can pass on their experience in dealing with environmental stress, renewal, protection, survival to the skin and activate them in it.
Thanks to advanced technologies, stem cells (callus cells) can be cultivated in the laboratory and used more and more efficiently by cosmetics to support the skin cells in their functions, whether protection and defence, regeneration, building and maintaining firmness and elasticity.
Plants that can live under extreme conditions or those that we know as superfoods are particularly suitable as stem cell suppliers.
Some examples:
Goji stem cell extract for more clearly defined facial contours
The goji berry, also called wolfberry or common buckthorn, is considered a superfood. The vibrant colours of the berries – orange, red or purple – indicate the high content of secondary plant substances. The goji berry has long been known in traditional Chinese medicine. Today, it is valued for its immune-strengthening effect as well as for its anti-aging effects. The fruit contains a lot of vitamin C, carotenoids such as lutein and zeaxanthin, as well as polyphenols, iron, phosphorus, magnesium.
The Goji stem cell extract with the trade name PhytoCellTecTM Goji (Mibelle Biochemistry) has been proven in vivo to be effective in improving the oval shape of the face. Facial and jaw contours appeared visibly more defined and tighter after one month. The active ingredient reduces lines and wrinkles, increases skin density as well as collagen and elastin production and the skin’s moisture-binding capacity.
PROFILE:
Trade name: PhytoCellTec Goji.
INCI: Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua
Description: Water-soluble powder, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration: 0.4 – 1%.
Effect: rejuvenates skin stem cells, improves communication between connective tissue stem cells and fibroblasts
Alpine Dwarf Soapwort Stem Cell Extract uses beauty secrets of the Ice Age
Alpine dwarf soapwort (Saponaria pumila) survived the last ice age on ice-free mountain peaks, nunataks, and is considered an extremophile plant. It grows in pads at rocky altitudes and has pink flowers and small, fleshy leaves. In permanent cold and under strong UV radiation, it has developed special protection and repair strategies.
The stem cell extract of the alpine dwarf soapwort with the trade name PhytoCellTecTM nunatak® (Mibelle Biochemistry) has been proven in application tests to have a protective effect against skin roughness and to increase skin density, elasticity, and firmness. The active ingredient improves the skin’s self-protection and gives the skin a smoother and more balanced appearance.
PROFILE:
Trade name: PhytoCellTec nunatak.
INCI: Saponaria Pumila Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua
Description: Water-soluble powder, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration: 0.4 – 1%.
Effect: protects the stem cells of the skin, strengthens the renewal potential of dermal stem cells after radiation stress
Argan stem cell extract rejuvenates the skin
The argan tree (Argania spinosa) is so well adapted to the extreme dryness and heat of its North African home that it can live up to 400 years. It is said to have grown here 80 million years ago and is considered a tertiary relict. It has been increasingly displaced from the landscape and can now only be found in a UNESCO biosphere reserve in south-west Morocco. Its oil is highly valued for use in skin and hair care products.
The stem cell extract of the argan tree, trade name PhytoCellTecTM Argan (Mibelle Biochemistry), has been shown in application tests to improve skin density and reduce mimic wrinkles and crow’s feet. By stimulating fibroblasts, it firms skin tissue and plumps up the skin from within, giving the skin an overall rejuvenated appearance. Its firming effect on the connective tissue of the thighs has also been confirmed; the strengthening of the subcutaneous-dermis connection plays an important role in this.
It is the first active ingredient proven to protect and activate dermal stem cells.
PROFILE:
Trade name: PhytoCellTec Argan
INCI: Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua
Description: Water-soluble powder, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration: 0.4 – 1%.
Effect: protects and vitalises dermal stem cells
Symphytum stem cell extract accelerates skin renewal
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) has a long history as a medicinal plant. Already in ancient times, the plant with the small, bell-shaped flowers, which is common in moist, grassy areas in Europe, was used to heal wounds and broken bones, inflammatory muscle and joint injuries. The effect is mainly based on allantoin, which accelerates cell formation.
The active ingredient with PhytoCellTecTM Symphytum (Mibelle Biochemistry) is based on the stem cell extract of comfrey root. Application tests showed that it improves the skin regeneration rate and stops the age-related decline in the skin’s ability to regenerate. It increases epidermis thickness and hyaluronic acid content in the skin, contributing to fresh, smooth skin.
PROFILE:
Trade name: PhytoCellTec Symphytum
INCI: Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua
Description: Water-soluble powder, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration: 0.4 – 1%.
Effect: activates skin stem cells, improves the renewal capacity of ageing epidermal stem cells
Swiss apple stem cell extract promotes skin cell longevity
The Swiss apple variety Uttwiler Spätlauber originated in the middle of the 18th century. The apple can be stored very well without shrinking. Due to its sour taste, this apple variety is hardly cultivated as an eating apple anymore, but it is interesting for cosmetics. It is rich in secondary plant substances, proteins, and long-lived tissue stem cells.
The stem cell extract of the Swiss apple with the trade name PhytoCellTecTM Malus Domestica (Mibelle Biochemistry) has been shown in vivo to increase skin density, help old skin cells to form new tissue, and reduce mimic wrinkles and crow’s feet. The active ingredient has antioxidant and anti-ageing effects, effectively rejuvenates the skin, slows down chronological ageing, strengthens the skin’s regenerative capacity, reduces wrinkles, firms skin tissue. In addition, it delays the ageing process of hair follicles.
PROFILE:
Trade name: PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica
INCI: Malus Domestica Fruit Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Aqua
Description: Water-soluble powder, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended use concentration: 2 – 5%
Action: protects skin stem cells, promotes their longevity, maintains the capacity for new formation in epidermal stem cells
Alpine rose stem cell extract strengthens the skin’s resilience
The alpine rose (Rhododendron ferruginium) grows at altitudes of 1500 to 3000 metres under extreme conditions. The evergreen shrub with pink flowers is extremely hardy and defies cold, UV radiation, drought, temperature fluctuations and can live for over one hundred years. The high content of antioxidants and polyphenol compounds has protective effects against free radicals.
The stem cell extract of the alpine rose with the trade name PhytoCellTecTM Alp Rose (Mibelle Biochemistry) has been proven in vivo to protect the skin barrier against extreme environmental influences. It improves the regeneration of the epidermis and the skin’s barrier function. It protects the skin against climatic stressors such as wind, cold, dryness, UV radiation and prevents excessive moisture loss. It also delays the formation of expression lines and crow’s feet. The optimised skin quality is accompanied by good skin feel, reduced redness and clearer luminosity.
PROFILE:
Trade name: PhytoCellTec Alp Rose
INCI: Rhododendron Ferrugineum Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua
Description: Water-soluble powder, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration: 0.4 – 1%.
Effect: strengthens the resistance of skin stem cells, protects epidermal stem cells against UV exposure
Grape stem cell extract protects against photo-ageing
The Gamay Teinturier Fréaux grape variety from Burgundy is characterised by its high resistance to UV rays. Due to its high tannin content, the juice of this colouring grape is not drunk pure, but is usually blended with wines with less pigment. The grape is rich in anthocyanins, which are also concentrated in the pulp, inhibit harmful oxidation, and scavenge free radicals.
The active ingredient with the trade name PhytoCellTecTM Grape (Mibelle Biochemistry) is based on the stem cell extract of the Gamay Teinturier Fréaux grape. Studies show that it protects the skin from light-induced ageing. It increases the skin’s UV tolerance, makes the skin more resistant and strengthens the functions of the skin cells. The skin acquires a vibrant, healthy appearance.
In combination with UV filters, the active ingredient provides additional protection against UV radiation and protects against free radicals.
PROFILE:
Trade name: PhytoCellTec Grape
INCI: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Cell Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua/Water
Description: Water-soluble powder, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration: 0.4 – 1%.
Effect: protects epidermal stem cells from damage by UV rays, increases the vitality of skin stem cells
Plant knowledge – modern use
Plant stem cells are true treasure troves, fully stored with information about survival under extreme conditions and full of secrets for lasting beauty.
Cosmacon will be happy to advise you on how to use stem cell knowledge for your products.
Literature:
Plant stem cells and their applications: special emphasis on their marketed products.
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Meunier M, Scandolera A, Chapuis E, Lambert C, Jarrin C, Robe P, Chajra H, Auriol D, Reynaud R.J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Aug;18(4):1140-1154
Comparison among Activities and Isoflavonoids from Pueraria thunbergianaAerial Parts and Root.
Son E, Yoon JM, An BJ, Lee YM, Cha J, Chi GY, Kim DS.Molecules. 2019 Mar 5;24(5):912
Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmeticingredients.
Georgiev V, Slavov A, Vasileva I, Pavlov A.Eng Life Sci. 2018 Jul 15;18(11):779-798
The Constituents of the Stems of Cissus assamica and Their Bioactivities.
Chan YY, Wang CY, Hwang TL, Juang SH, Hung HY, Kuo PC, Chen PJ, Wu TS.Molecules. 2018 Oct 28;23(11):2799
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