Slow ageing
Dealing naturally with the ageing process, enjoying life, and preserving one’s own authenticity: More and more people have internalised this credo and are also opting for deceleration and serenity when it comes to beauty care. Skin ageing is gradually losing its horror, because it cannot be prevented anyway. What we can prevent, however, is feeling bad and unattractive. Or to put it another way: the traces of our life may show on our face, but our skin should still look radiant and healthy. The new cosmetic concept Slow ageing, which is so much more than just a trend, perfectly implements this lifestyle.
What is Slow ageing anyway?
Slow ageing clearly focuses on beauty and radiance, but it is not primarily aimed at stopping skin ageing. Slow ageing is more about slowing down the ageing process and giving our skin more time to look young. Nowadays, women at 50 are more active and confident than ever. Many of them now dare to make a new start: when the children are out of the house, they take off again professionally, discover new exciting hobbies or realise their very personal life dream. The main thing is happiness, that’s the motto. With Slow ageing, they express that it is absolutely okay to have a face that shows the traces of a life lived, and that the only thing that matters is to look radiant and vital. True beauty ultimately comes about when people naturally make friends with natural ageing and take care of themselves. Wrinkles cannot be prevented in the long run and they ultimately give a face personality and authenticity. Slow ageing aims to protect the skin from environmental influences, gently support its regeneration, strengthen its resilience, and give the complexion a beautiful glow.
The innovative Slow ageing concept thus combines several pillars of sustainable anti-aging care: hydration, “keep it simple”, “skin food”, detox and naturalness. Coordinated with this: light formulas with an anti-oxidative effect that moisturise, contain UV protection, and offer the skin an ideal foundation with vitamins, minerals and other valuable active ingredients.
One of the pioneers in slow ageing is Vichy with its “Slow Age” series. The care series strengthens the skin with natural active ingredients, protects against premature ageing and improves resistance. The series includes products for day, night, and eye care.
This is how a Slow ageing skincare range could be composed: the ingredients
Glycyrrhizinate derivatives from liquorice root, for example, would be ideal for slow ageing products.
18-ß-Glycyrrhetinic Acid (INCI: Glycyrrhetinic Acid) has antiphlogistic, antiseborrhoeic, antioxidant and antipruritic effects. The fine light powder has a slightly sweet smell and is soluble in hot water, phenylethyl alcohol and, depending on the concentration, also in ethanol. Similarly effective are ammonium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (INCI: dipotassium glycyrrhizate, skin-soothing, antiseborrhoeic, antiphlogistic) and the oil-soluble stearyl glycyrrhizinate.
With their proven and unique effect (moisturising and film-forming), hyaluronic acids in different lengths and forms are suitable for complementing slow ageing products. Hyaluronic acid in complex with collagen Atecoron Plus PHE is particularly interesting.
Atecoron Plus PHE 1.2. penetrates the skin and hydrates from within, the milky and viscous solution significantly reduces wrinkle depth, promotes skin renewal, and improves the internal structure of the skin.
The anti-stress peptide is Enerine (INCI: Phosphate Buffered Saline, sh-Hexapeptide-4), a hexapeptide that improves skin barrier and elasticity, reduces skin pore size and sebum production, and reduces bags under the eyes. In addition, Enerine protects against UV radiation and oxidative stress.
Another peptide is Clodessine (INCI: sh-Nonapeptide-4), a fragment of the youth hormone Klotho, which increases skin elasticity, prolongs the youthfulness and lifespan of skin cells and enhances the natural defence and detoxification mechanism. Clodessine also improves skin texture and structure, reduces the number and size of skin pores, and can reduce wrinkles by up to 50 percent. The clear colourless solution is suitable for use in slow ageing at concentrations between 0.1 and 5.0 percent.
Schizophyllan powder, a biotechnologically produced polysaccharide extracted from the cell walls of the common cleft leaf (Schizophyllum Commune), is characterised by excellent immunomodulating properties. It improves collagen synthesis, acts as a valuable radical scavenger and antioxidant, promotes the proliferation of keratinocytes and is even effective against acne. The white to slightly yellowish powder is water-soluble and suitable for an application concentration of 0.02 to 0.2 percent in slow ageing.
Water-soluble stable vitamin C derivatives are also a great solution for slow ageing products. Ascorbyl glycoside protects against light-induced skin ageing, reduces wrinkles and is known to be an excellent antioxidant. In addition, the powder also helps to improve collagen synthesis.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (INCI: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) has similar properties and is stable at pH values of 4.0 to 6.0. The light crystalline powder has already made a name for itself in the field of skin whitening and is an excellent radical scavenger. Just like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, by the way, a substance that is perfectly suited for use in the slow ageing sector with an application concentration between 0.5 and 3.0 percent.
Ursolic acid (INCI: Sodium Ursolate, Sodium Oleanolate) is extracted from the leaves of the olive tree (Olea Europaea) or from the leaves of the Japanese woolly loquat (Eriobotrya japonica). The anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial powder stabilises liposomal membranes and inhibits elastases. As an antioxidant, it has a very good repair effect on the collagen fibre bundle structures. Ursolic acid is soluble in pentylene glycol and propylene glycol and is extremely effective against light-induced skin ageing.
ViaPure Citrus (INCI: Citrus Grandis Peel Extract) is an extract from the peel of the young grapefruit. The slightly yellowish powder contains at least 95 percent apigenin and is considered anti-inflammatory. It protects the body’s own hyaluronic acid, has a repair effect and can protect DNA from UV damage. ViaPure Citrus is highly soluble in ethanol.
ViaPure Boswellia (INCI: Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract), a lipophilic, yellow to pale white extract from the resin of Boswellia serrata resin (frankincense), has a distinctly skin-soothing and skin-firming effect. As the oil-soluble extract contains at least 95 percent boswellic acid, it is able to strengthen the skin’s barrier function.
ViaPure Andrographis (INCI: Andrographis Paniculata Leaf Extract) also has excellent properties. This is the extract from the leaves of Andrographis paniculata, an annual herbaceous plant from the Acanthaceae family, which contains at least 95 percent andrographolides. The active ingredient is not only considered skin-lightening, skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory, but also helps against oxidative stress as well as unsightly dark circles under the eyes. ViaPure Andrographis is soluble in glycols.
And then there is Carboxymethylglucan (INCI: Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan), similar to Schizophyllan, a natural raw material for immune stimulation. The substance is extracted from the cell wall of baker’s yeast and helps to strengthen the body’s own defence mechanisms. Carboxymethyl is an ideal moisturiser in slow ageing and has an immunomodulating effect. Other positive properties include protection against UV damage to the skin, acceleration of wound healing and a reduction in TEWL (transepidermal water loss). The fine white to yellowish powder is also frequently used in anti-acne preparations.
Slow ageing creates a new awareness for healthy and natural beauty
When mature skin looks radiant and vibrant, it doesn’t matter at all if a few wrinkles are possibly visible. The question of whether we will age at some point is therefore moving more and more into the background; instead, more and more people are focusing on HOW we age and how we deal with environmental pollution and stress. We want to remain as natural and healthy as possible even at a mature age, and this should also be reflected in our outer appearance. The concept of Slow ageing implements these requirements perfectly.
Cosmacon supports you in developing an appropriate Slow ageing sub-brand for your existing brand.
Literature:
Facial skin ageing: Key concepts and overview of processes.
Zargaran D, Zoller F, Zargaran A, Weyrich T, Mosahebi A.Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Aug;44(4):414-420
A new wrinkle on old skin: the role of elastic fibres in skin ageing.
Langton AK, Sherratt MJ, Griffiths CE, Watson RE.Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 Oct;32(5):330-9
Taofiq O, Heleno SA, Calhelha RC, Alves MJ, Barros L, Barreiro MF, González-Paramás AM, Ferreira IC.Molecules. 2016 Oct 14;21(10):1372