Rosemary extract is obtained from the evergreen semi-shrub rosemary (Rosmarinuns officinalis) and belongs to the labiates family. This plant is native mainly to the central and western Mediterranean region. It can grow up to two metres high and exudes an intense aromatic scent. The slightly bitter, resinous taste is somewhat reminiscent of eucalyptus or camphor. For a long time, rosemary was considered a symbol of love. Wreaths were made from the plant, which served as headdresses for brides. Ophelia tied a rosemary wreath for Hamlet as a sign of her fidelity. And if troubadours wanted to win a lady over, they presented her with a bouquet of rosemary.
Rosemary extract as food additive E392
The plant is still an important ingredient in Mediterranean cuisine today and is included in the Provence herb mix, among other things. The popular barbecue spice goes very well with meat, potatoes, poultry as well as pasta and is often found in herb butter. We also know rosemary extract as food additive E 392, which is often used as a preservative and antioxidant. From frozen pizzas to spreads to sauces and soups, E 392 is found almost everywhere and is considered safe unless there is an allergy to the components of rosemary extract. The plant also plays a major role in perfume production. For example, cologne still contains rosemary oil.
Other uses
In Germany, rosemary was the medicinal plant of the year in 2000 and 2011. Rosemary extract is used internally as a tea and can relieve flatulence and stimulate the circulation. It also has both a bile and diuretic effect. Traditionally, ointments with rosemary extract are used against rheumatism and migraine. For poorly healing and infected wounds, a rosemary bath promotes the healing process. The antiseptic effect of rosemary oil is more than five times that of phenol (carbolic acid). According to the European Pharmacopoeia, the oil extracted from the plant by steam distillation has antimicrobial activity and is therefore effective against various moulds, bacteria, and yeasts.
The ingredients of rosemary extract
The proportion of essential oils is about 2.5 percent. These are mainly the terpenes borneol, cineol, carnosic acid, terpineol, camphor, oleanolic acid, betulin, bornyl acetate and carnosol. In addition, around 8.0 percent tannins are contained, with rosmarinic acid being of particular importance. Furthermore, the plant hides various vital substances, flavonoids, resin, saponins, bitter substances and glycolic acid. The pentacyclic triterpenoid ursolic acid should also be mentioned. Most of the ingredients mentioned are also contained in sage extract (Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract).
Ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid are considered to be the main active substances in rosemary extract and are also interesting in terms of cosmetic benefits. We therefore present these three substances in a little more detail.
Carnosic acid
Carnosic acid is found in both rosemary and sage species. The carboxylic acid belongs to the phenols and diterpenes and belongs to the group of ferruginol derivatives. Dried rosemary and sage leaves contain about 1.5 to 2.5 percent carnosic acid.
Carnosic acid was first discovered in 1962 by Horst Linde. He first isolated the substance from sage (Salvia officinalis). Seven years later, the German pharmacist and food chemist Carl Heinz Brieskorn found out that carnosol and carnosic acid are responsible for the antioxidant effect of sage and rosemary and that carnosic acid has the strongest antioxidant activity.
Carnosic acid is a yellow powder with a bitter taste that is extracted from rosemary by solvent extraction using ethanol and/or hexane. High pressure extraction with carbon dioxide is also common. The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) already certified the safety of carnosic acid for use in food in summer 2008.
Carnosic acid not only has an antioxidant effect, but also an antimicrobial effect, which is particularly noticeable against the bacterium Staphylococcus aureus. This effect is attributed to the inhibition of nucleic acid biosynthesis in the bacterium. Animal experiments also proved a chemoprotective effect of carnosic acid in the fight against carcinogens.
Fact Sheet Carnosic Acid
INCI: Carnosic Acid
CAS number: 3650-09-7
Melting point: 185 to 190 degrees Celsius
Solubility: almost insoluble in water, highly soluble in hexane, lipids, and diethyl ether
Effect: Carnosic acid has antioxidant and antimicrobial effects
Ursolic acid
The triterpenoid ursolic acid is also known as malol, prunol and ursone and is not only found in rosemary extract, but also in apples, basil, catnip, holly, thyme, and many other plants. It has a so-called picene structure, which is very common among the sapogenins. Structurally, ursolic acid is also related to oleanolic acid. Researchers recognised the pharmacological properties of ursolic acid some time ago. The focus is on a potential application as an anti-cancer agent as well as an anti-inflammatory, because ursolic acid has been shown to have a cyclooxygenase-inhibiting effect in addition to cytotoxicity.
In the food industry, ursolic acid is used as an additive. Athletes appreciate foods with natural ursolic acid because they help the body burn fat. Furthermore, ursolic acid has a stimulating influence on collagen synthesis in the skin. If the body’s own collagen structure is defective, even highly effective active substances such as hyaluronic acid cannot take hold. The effect would be comparable to trying to transport water with the help of a sieve. In cosmetic products, ursolic acid boosts the skin’s metabolism. It has strong regenerating properties and is particularly suitable for anti-ageing care. It is extremely well tolerated by the skin, even people with sensitive skin can usually use cosmetics with ursolic acid without any problems.
The phenylacrylic acid rosmarinic acid was first discovered and isolated in 1958. As the name suggests, researchers at the time succeeded in isolating it from rosemary. In principle, however, rosmarinic acid is widespread in the plant kingdom. For example, it is also found in many hornworts and ferns. In plants, rosmarinic acid serves as a defence against bacteria and fungi. Rosmarinic acid has tanning properties, influences the complement-dependent stimulation of prostaglandin synthesis and blocks opsonisation. Athletes appreciate ointments with rosmarinic acid because the substance has antiviral, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. For the same reason, rosmarinic acid is also suitable for cosmetic use. But rosmarinic acid is also able to promote blood circulation and stimulate blood flow. This in turn boosts the skin’s metabolism: one of the main reasons why rosmarinic acid is excellent for preparations against cellulite and products for mature skin.
Fact Sheet Rosmarinic Acid or Rosmarinyl Glucoside
INCI: Rosmarinyl Glucoside
CAS number: 910028-78-3
Description: a particularly stable variant of rosmarinic acid with optimal solubility
Rosmarinic acid, ursolic acid and carnosic acid: the three active substances in rosemary extract
The spice bush rosemary is more than just a component of Mediterranean cuisine. With its main active ingredients rosmarinic acid, ursolic acid and carnosic acid, it is an excellent choice for cosmetic formulations, especially in the anti-ageing segment. Tired and sallow skin is given a more vital and fresh appearance with appropriate products. But rosemary extract is not only suitable for facial care: in bath additives it has a calming effect, in shampoo it has a soothing effect on itchy scalp and dandruff. Ursolic acid or rosmarinic acid can also be used for peelings, soaps, and shower gels. Cosmacon is happy to support you in the development of innovative cosmetic products with rosemary extract.
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