Lipstick tree
The name annatto shrub or even lipstick tree is not yet very familiar to us, but that could soon change.
The seeds and the oil extracted from them have numerous positive properties that can also be used in cosmetics.
But what is annatto shrub anyway?
Roucou is a French term that refers to both the annatto bush and its seeds and is used as a synonym. Other names for the small tree are red lipstick tree, roucou bush and orlean bush (derived from the discoverer Francisco de Orellana).
The annatto bush (Bixa orellana) or lipstick tree is native to South and Central America and Southeast Asia. It is said to have been discovered in the 16th century by the Spaniard Francisco de Orellana, when he was the first European explorer to navigate the Amazon from west to east by ship. The evergreen lipstick tree can reach heights of six to eight metres and produces numerous short-stemmed and wonderfully fragrant flowers. Much more important than the flowers, however, are the small seeds and kernels of the heart-shaped capsule fruit, which have been used for centuries by indigenous peoples for red body paint. It is said that at some point the term “redskin” arose from this. The typical red colour serves not only spiritual purposes, but also insect repellent and protection from the sun. The Ecuadorian Tsáchila people traditionally use the intense colouring substances of the seeds to dye their hair.
Lipstick tree has food approval
In Costa Rica, Mexico and Nicaragua, lipstick tree is an extremely popular spice that enhances many dishes with its slightly earthy flavour, is used to marinate meat and gives food a beautiful red colour. The famous painter Gauguin, on the other hand, is said to have liked to use the dye for his paintings.
Since it is non-toxic, it is also used in Europe for food processing. This can be recognised by the designation E160b. Examples are cheese, butter, rice, snacks and margarine, which get an appetising colouring thanks to lipstick tree. According to the EC organic regulation, lipstick tree is also officially approved for the production of organic food. The seeds are also considered an ideal alternative to expensive saffron.
By the way: There is of course a reason why the plant is called “red lipstick tree”, because the seeds are actually a common raw material for the production of lipsticks!
Lipstick tree in cosmetics
A capsule fruit of the lipstick tree hides about 50 seeds, which have a vermilion shell. After ripening, the capsule bursts open on its own and reveals the seeds, which are about three centimetres in size. They are used to make paste for seasoning, extract and oil, among other things. A single bush can bear up to 250 kilograms of fruit. The seeds are rich in various valuable ingredients. On the one hand, there are the two colouring agents norbixin and bixin. Particularly impressive is the content of carotene, natural antioxidants and ellagic acid; proteins, carbohydrates, salicylic acid and cellulose are also present in large quantities. Of particular importance is tocotrienol (mainly as delta-tocotrienol), a special form of vitamin E that not only acts as an antioxidant but also has anti-inflammatory properties. Lipstick tree seeds contain about 100 times more beta carotene than carrots.
Studies have already shown that lipstick tree can have antibacterial and blood pressure lowering effects. In addition, the substance is said to strengthen bones and even accelerate wound healing. According to a study published in the “International Journal of Pharmacognosy”, lipstick tree is able to fight various strains of bacteria thanks to its antimicrobial properties.
Lipstick tree – ideal for natural hair care products
In cosmetics, it is often found as an oil in hair care products. The beta-carotene it contains slows down the ageing process and has a natural sun protection factor that protects against harmful UV radiation. Beta-carotene also supports the production of collagen fibres and regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands.
The oil is particularly suitable for damaged, dry and weakened hair. The natural hair colour is beautifully emphasised by the annatto shrub colouring agents. In addition, there are moisturising substances that ensure optimal care in the hair and scalp. The scalp is thus well moisturised without increasing sebum production. This gives the hair more shine, makes it easier to comb and easier to style.
Soaps and bath cosmetics are given a rich and wonderfully warm yellow to orange tone with lipstick tree, and at the same time the skin is thoroughly but gently cleansed.
Furthermore, lipstick tree is excellently suited for sun protection products and day cream with sun protection factor. This is due, among other things, to the tocotrienols it contains, which are considered to be the most effective representatives of vitamin E. They are said to be as much as 40 to 60 times more effective. They are said to be 40 to 60 times more effective. Due to their special structure, they bind particularly well into the membrane lipids. In this way, they can provide the skin with long-lasting protection against inflammation, skin ageing and wrinkles.
Fact Sheet Lipstick tree / Annatto Bush
INCI: Bixa Orellana Seed Extract
Origin: from the seeds of the annatto bush
CAS number: 89957-43-7
EC number: 289-561-2
Colour: orange to vermilion
Effect: colouring, protects against sun rays, antioxidant, moisturises
Lipstick tree: more than just a dye
Lipstick tree (annatto bush) is a popular and absolutely well tolerated colouring agent for food, textiles and cosmetics, but the seeds of the annatto shrub can do much more. They are particularly suitable for hair care and sun protection products. Cosmacon is happy to develop highly effective and sophisticated formulations for sophisticated cosmetics for you.
Literature:
Carotenoid Derivates in Achiote (Bixa orellana) Seeds: Synthesis and Health Promoting Properties.
Rivera-Madrid R, Aguilar-Espinosa M, Cárdenas-Conejo Y, Garza-Caligaris LE.Front Plant Sci. 2016 Sep 21;7:1406.
Gonçalves MLL, da Mota ACC, Deana AM, Guedes GH, Cavalcante LAS, Prates RA, Horliana ACRT, Pavani C, Motta LJ, Bitencourt GB, Fernandes KPS, Salgueiro MDCC, Mesquita-Ferrari RA, da Silva DFT, França CM, Bussadori SK.Trials. 2018 Oct 29;19(1):590
Shahid-Ul-Islam, Rather LJ, Mohammad F.J Adv Res. 2016 May;7(3):499-514
Achiote (Bixa orellana L.): a natural source of pigment and vitamin E.
Raddatz-Mota D, Pérez-Flores LJ, Carrari F, Mendoza-Espinoza JA, de León-Sánchez FD, Pinzón-López LL, Godoy-Hernández G, Rivera-Cabrera F.J Food Sci Technol. 2017 May;54(6):1729-1741
Traditional uses, chemical constituents, and biological activities of Bixa orellanaL.: a review.
Vilar Dde A, Vilar MS, de Lima e Moura TF, Raffin FN, de Oliveira MR, Franco CF, de Athayde-Filho PF, Diniz Mde F, Barbosa-Filho JM.ScientificWorldJournal. 2014;2014:857292