Oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid
Water-free products often have the disadvantage that no water-soluble skin moisturisers can be integrated and this is where oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid comes in.
Skin care makeup combines the properties of skin care cosmetics and decorative cosmetics. This makeup is skin care at the same time, has moisturising, restorative and repairing properties.
Pigment-rich but moisture-deficient decorative products do not meet the expectations of care-conscious users, for whom good looks and good skin feel go hand in hand.
The moisture magnet in the skin is hyaluronic acid, a natural component of the skin. It binds 1000 times its weight in water. It keeps the skin soft and supple, supports the absorption of nutrients, eliminates free radicals, prevents and repairs skin damage.
The question is: How can water-soluble hyaluronic acid be integrated into oil-based makeup products that are high in lipid components?
The answer is: as oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid.
Oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid: Structure
To obtain oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, the small-molecule salt of hyaluronic acid, is dispersed in vegetable oils.
In order for the water-soluble sodium hyaluronate molecule to be incorporated into cosmetic formulations that are mainly based on oil components, it is dispersed in the oil phase in the form of microspheres.
For the external phase of oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid, the oil of meadowfoam seeds or castor bean seeds is particularly suitable.
The combination of sodium hyaluronate in microspheres and vegetable oils combines the positive effects of both components for the skin. It achieves intensive moisturising effect, increases skin elasticity, smoothes the skin surface and reduces roughness.
Meadowfoam oil and castor oil are characterised by high skin affinity. With softening and nourishing effects, they prevent transepidermal water evaporation. The hyaluronic acid microspheres of extremely low molecular weight dispersed in the oil quickly penetrate the skin and bind the water inside the skin.
Oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid thus offers a dual care effect and is a real plus in make-up products.
It is suitable for face and lip makeup: Foundation, BB cream, lipstick, lip gloss, etc.
Mode of action
The oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid has good skin affinity due to its lipophilic outer layer and can easily release the hyaluronic acid in the microspheres when applied to the skin. The small hyaluronic acid molecules are absorbed into the skin and cause an immediate moisture enrichment.
They unfold their effect from the inside out, so to speak.
After prolonged use, the oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid can significantly increase skin hydration and maintain a constant level of moisture in the skin.
Effectiveness assessment
1 – Moisture
BB cream with 1% oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid and lipstick with 1% oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid were significantly superior to placebo products in moisturising the upper layers of the skin in both the short and long term.
(Measurement with corneometer)
2 – Lip plumping effect
The lipstick with 1% oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid achieved a significant lip plumping effect, which was confirmed both in the instrumental assessment with high-resolution digital imaging and in the clinical dermatological assessment.
3 – Repairing effect
The oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid (1% in the lipstick) achieved significant reparative effects on the lip skin, which were confirmed in both the instrumental and clinical assessment. After 28 days of use, the condition of dry or chapped lips had noticeably improved. The lips felt smooth and soft.
Tolerance, safety and stability
Oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid does not cause eye irritation or skin irritation (skin patch test, test on reconstructed human epidermis).
No mutagenicity was found. (bacterial reverse mutation test /Ames).
In the accelerated stability test (6 months), the oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid showed no significant changes in appearance, odour, content and molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid molecule.
Advantages of oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid at a glance
- High safety – High stability – High efficacy
- Very good transdermal absorption
- Very good moisturising, repairing, lip plumping properties
Overview of oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid
INCI: Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Behenate
Melting point: 65~80℃
Percentage in formulation: 0.1%~2.0%
Natural Origin Index: 1
COSMOS Approved
Function
Increase hydration, smoothness and elasticity of skin, plumpness of lip skin, repair effect.
Suitable for the production of makeup products, such as foundation, BB cream, lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, cushion formulations, compact powder, etc.
Sodium hyaluronate
INCI: Sodium hyaluronate
CAS: 9067-32-7
COSMOS reference: biocompatible
The sodium salt of hyaluronic acid easily penetrates the epidermis, even into deeper layers, because the molecule is much smaller than the hyaluronic acid molecule. It attracts water and binds up to 1000 times its weight in water.
Meadowfoam oil
INCI: Limnanthes alba Seed Oil
CAS: 153065-40-8
COSMOS reference: biocompatible
The oil from the seeds of the meadowfoam is extremely resistant to oxidation and heat and very stable against rancidity.
Besides oleic and linoleic acid, it contains many rare long-chain and unsaturated fatty acids.
The oil, which is liquid at room temperature, is well absorbed by the skin and forms a protective shield that preserves skin moisture without sealing the skin. Maedowfoam seed oil is also well tolerated by sensitive skin. It is not greasy on the skin, has a light plumping effect and gives a supple skin feeling. It improves the shelf life of cosmetic formulations.
Castor oil
INCI: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
CAS: 8001-79-4
COSMOS reference: biocompatible
The highly viscous oil from the seed of the castor plant (also known as the Christ palm or miracle tree) is mainly used in lipsticks. It is stable against rancidity and has a high affinity to the skin.
Its main components are triglycerides of ricinoleic, oleic, linoleic, palmitic and stearic acids. It supports the even distribution of pigments in makeup products, has a moisturising effect, keeps lips soft and gives them shine
Skin care makeup with excellent colour effects from Cosmacon
Modern make-up fulfils the skin care function just as naturally as the decorative task. Ultimately, only sufficiently moisturised, smooth and elastic skin and supple and full lips can show off a make-up to its best advantage. An intelligent and technologically sophisticated way to formulate oil-based products that meet these expectations is oil-dispersed hyaluronic acid. Cosmacon is ready to develop such innovative formulations for you.