Protein Hydrolysates

Protein hydrolysates are the result of a process called hydrolysis, in which proteins are broken down into smaller molecules. Usually, proteins are large molecules that the body cannot utilise directly. They must first be broken down into smaller molecules such as free amino acids or di- and tripeptides so that the body can utilise them. These large proteins are broken down into smaller peptides by hydrolysis, which minimises the digestive effort for the body. This enables faster absorption of nutrients into the bloodstream, especially in sports and sports medicine applications where accelerated nutrient delivery to the muscles is important. Before the proteins can even enter the human bloodstream and be transported from there to the muscle cells and organs, they are first broken down into amino acids and peptides by our digestive tract. Without this breakdown, they would not be able to pass through the transport channels in the intestinal wall.

The advantage of protein hydrolysates therefore lies in the fact that the body has to make virtually no digestive effort at all, but the nutrients still reach the bloodstream quickly and without detours. Protein hydrolysates are used particularly frequently in sport and sports medicine. The ‘free’ amino acids they contain can be better absorbed by the body, which leads to the desired acceleration of the nutrient supply to muscle tissue in athletes and bodybuilders, among others. However, protein hydrolysates are now also gaining ground in cosmetics. And there is a simple reason for this.

Protein hydrolysates in hair care products

Protein hydrolysates are also popular in the cosmetics industry. For example, hydrolysed rice or wheat proteins are often used in natural cosmetic shampoos. They prevent the hair from becoming electrically charged when brushing or styling and improve its suppleness and strength. These small molecules can penetrate the hair to strengthen and revitalise it, unlike intact proteins which can only form a protective layer on the surface of the hair.

Hydrolysed wheat proteins in the shampoo have the properties of a conditioner and contribute to more vitality, volume and hair strength. They make the hair more supple and help to rebuild the hair fibre. Protein hydrolysates are also completely vegan and water-soluble. Basically, protein hydrolysates improve the hair’s resistance and thus protect it from damage caused by external influences. Whilst intact proteins with large molecules cannot penetrate the hair and only form a microscopically fine and externally smoothing protective layer on the surface, protein hydrolysates (small molecules) penetrate the hair without any problems. As the smallest components, the amino acids rebuild the hair, strengthen the structure and can even accelerate hair growth. As well as being used in shampoos, protein hydrolysates are therefore also suitable for use in hair oils and hair treatments. Protein hydrolysates start repairing and repairing damage as soon as they penetrate the inner layers of the hair, so that the hair usually feels much healthier and stronger very quickly. Protein hydrolysates are also suitable for all hair types, regardless of whether it is dry, oily, fine or brittle.

Hydrolysed proteins in skin care products

Protein hydrolysates are also used in skin care products, where they can increase the blood circulation and elasticity of the skin and reduce moisture loss. In many cases, protein hydrolysates can be used to increase circulation and elasticity. Products containing protein hydrolysates often offer healing and skin tightening effects, making them ideal for mature or damaged skin.

Hydrolysed proteins in the Cosmetics Regulation

Because hydrolysed wheat proteins were suspected of triggering contact allergies in sensitive people, the EU Commission added new provisions to the Cosmetics Regulation in 2017. The content of potentially allergenic proteins was minimised accordingly. Regulation EU 2017/2228 states that the average molecular mass of peptides in hydrolysed wheat protein must be limited to a maximum of 3.5 kDa (kilodaltons) when used in cosmetic products. In a revised opinion, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) categorised the use of hydrolysed wheat protein in cosmetic products as safe for consumers, provided that the maximum value of 3.5 kDa is not exceeded. As this limit had already been discussed for several years, the cosmetics industry had sufficient time to prepare for the new regulation for protein hydrolysates.

PROFILE: Hydrolysed wheat protein

INCI: Hydrolysed Wheat Protein

CAS number: 70084-87-6

EINECS number: 305-225-0

Areas of application: for skin and hair care products: Creams, lotions, shampoos and conditioners. Improves sun protection against free radicals. Approved for certified natural cosmetics.

Ingredients: rich in natural vitamin E, high content of the amino acids proline and glutamine

PROFILE: Hydrolysed oat protein

INCI: Hydrolysed Oat Protein

CAS number: 151661-87-9

Properties: gives the skin a soft feeling, for more suppleness of the hair, prevents static charging of the hair.

Ingredients: contains eight essential amino acids, high biological value

PROFILE: hydrolysed pea protein

INCI: Hydrolysed Pea Protein

CAS number: 222400-29-5

Properties: strengthens the hair and gives shine, helps to keep the hair hydrated, prevents hair breakage, restorative, antioxidant, volumising, conditioning and firming properties.

Ingredients: including essential amino acids

PROFILE: Hydrolysed rice protein

INCI: Hydrolysed Rice Protein

CAS number: 156715-40-1

Properties: prevents hair from becoming statically charged, for hair conditioning and skin care

PROFILE: Jojoba protein

INCI: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein

CAS number: 100684-35-3

EINECS number: 309-708-7

Properties: hair and skin conditioning

PROFILE: Yeast protein

INCI: Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

CAS number: 100684-36-4

EINECS number: 309-709-2

Use: for antistatic and hair care products, improves the moisture content of the skin

We like to work with these hydrolysed proteins in hair and skin care:

Hydrolysed proteins as effective ingredients

Even in cosmetics, proteins can only be optimally absorbed by the body if they have undergone hydrolysis. This is the only way they can penetrate deep into the skin and hair and develop their effect there. Hydrolysed proteins are therefore an excellent choice for sophisticated care products. If you would also like to offer a product with a hydrolysed protein, please contact us.

Sources:

Comparative Characterization of Gluten and Hydrolyzed Wheat Proteins.; Gabler AM, Scherf KA.Biomolecules. 2020 Aug 24;10(9):1227.

Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Proteins and Peptides as Used in Cosmetics.; Burnett CL, Boyer IJ, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Marks JG Jr, Shank RC, Slaga TJ, Snyder PW, Heldreth B.Int J Toxicol. 2022 Aug;41(2_suppl):5S-20S.

Protein-Based Materials in Cosmetics. ; Dai, L., Hansenne-Cervantes, I. (2023). In: Maia, F.R.A., Oliveira, J.M., Reis, R.L. (eds) Handbook of the Extracellular Matrix. (2023).Springer, Cham.

Biotechnology of functional proteins and peptides for hair cosmetic formulations.; Tinoco A, Martins M, Cavaco-Paulo A, Ribeiro A.Trends Biotechnol. 2022 May;40(5):591-605.