Scalp care: The scalp needs its own care
The scalp: a little anatomy
Our scalp needs care. The scalp, which covers the skull, consists of the scalp and a thin, strong tendon plate, the galea aponeurotica, which is connected to the scalp. The galea is attached to the periosteum of the skull by a layer of loose connective tissue that acts as a sliding layer of the scalp against the skull.
A special feature of the scalp is that it has a high density of large hair follicles and many sweat gland ducts.
Where a hair grows, the epidermis is deeply invaginated into the dermis. At the bottom of the funnel, the so-called hair follicle or hair bulb, is the hair papilla, which consists of connective tissue. The hair is anchored in it. Blood vessels that supply the hair with nutrients and oxygen so that it can grow open into it.
The hair follicle encloses the hair root, the so-called hair bulb. Cells that form the individual hair layers are located in the hair matrix. The pigment cells are also located here.
Our hair follicles are also the point of entry for the sebaceous glands and the apocrine sweat glands. The hair is coated with a fine protective film of fat. The sebum film that coats the hair and is distributed over the scalp by the hair is intended to prevent too much water from evaporating. However, this is also why hair can become greasy and smell if it is not washed for a long time.
A small muscle is attached to the hair follicle, which raises the hair in cold weather or when excited. This creates an insulating layer of air, which is of little significance to humans.
Care for the scalp = scalp care
The scalp needs special attention as a breeding ground for healthy hair.
Since it is covered by hair, it is easily forgotten.
Dirt and skin particles stick to the mass of sebum and sweat. This is one reason to wash your hair regularly and cleanse your scalp.
Even if you rinse thoroughly after washing, fragrances, colouring agents and preservatives, as well as residues of styling products, can remain on the scalp and irritate it, causing itching and allergies, encouraging excess sebum production, causing redness and narrowing the hair follicles.
Hair should be dried at a low temperature to avoid drying out the scalp or, on the other hand, stimulating the sebaceous glands with too much heat.
As we age, the scalp usually becomes drier and so does the hair.
A dry scalp itches and is prone to inflammation, which can promote hair loss.
The scalp therefore needs its own care, which must also take the skin type into account.
Scalp care requires special products
These products must reach the scalp directly. This is often not the case under the hair.
Peeling products and serums or tinctures play a central role in scalp care.
Peeling is the preparation for the application of a serum or a tincture. These highly concentrated extracts or active ingredient preparations are applied at least once a week over a longer period of time.
After peeling, the scalp is ready to absorb the active ingredients contained in the product. After about four weeks, i.e. one skin renewal cycle, the results will be visible.
A few drops are applied directly to the scalp, usually with a pipette. It is best to part the hair into sections for this. Some serums are rinsed off, while others are left on the scalp.
Masks are also able to act on the scalp and hair follicles.
After washing your hair, apply the mask to the scalp, right up to the hairline, while it is still damp. Then leave it to work for a few minutes. You may want to wrap a towel around your head. This will enhance the occlusive effect of the mask.
Then rinse it off with lukewarm water.
Scalp massages support the effect of the product, stimulate the blood circulation, are pleasantly relaxing and a good way to work nourishing oils into the scalp, for example.
Scalp care: exfoliation for the scalp
Regular exfoliation, ideally once a week, ensures a clean and healthy scalp, regulates excess sebum, removes dead skin cells, regulates the keratinisation process, increases cell turnover, prevents hair follicles from narrowing and supports scalp hydration.
An acid mix of hydroxy acids, e.g. lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, is ideal.
Lactic acid in particular is recommended as a component of the natural moisturising factor and, like malic acid, favours a slightly acidic skin environment. Tartaric acid is milder than glycolic acid, which can cause irritation to sensitive scalps. Citric acid has an anti-inflammatory effect and can be used on normal, sensitive or oily scalps.
Those who prefer a mechanical scrub are well advised to use a creamy, relaxing scrub, e.g. with sweet orange peel. It removes dry dandruff and soothes dry scalps.
A scrub with exfoliating beads made of cellulose acetate is suitable for all types of scalp. The vegetable scrub granules are a suitable alternative to polyethylene beads.
Jojoba beads are softer and suitable for sensitive scalps. If you want a more intensive scrub, you can try products with ground apricot kernels or nut shells. Sensitive scalps, as well as oily scalps, should stick to mild acids or scrubs to avoid irritation or stimulating the sebaceous glands.
After exfoliating, the scalp and hair must be thoroughly rinsed.
Scalp care: protection for the scalp
Protective care products can be applied to the scalp in the form of a serum, mask or oil.
Jojoba oil is rich in lipids, waxes, provitamin A and vitamin E. It penetrates the skin well, is non-greasy and is said to protect against UV rays.
Bioflavonoids from St. John’s wort, e.g. as a serum, protect the scalp and hair from internal and external damage, delay the ageing of hair follicles and increase hair growth and density.
Sunflower sprouts are a power pack of vital substances. They protect against environmental pollutants and free radicals and help to balance the scalp.
The mangosteen fruit (Garcinia mangostana) is a tropical fruit that is not only of interest in the food sector. With its high antioxidant content, it is even said to exceed vitamin E. Its extract is used in scalp serums to strengthen the immune system. It also contains tannins, which are useful for impure scalps.
Scalpcare: strengthening the scalp
Scalp serums with pro-vitamin B5 and tara extract revitalise the scalp and hair follicles after washing. The extract of the tannin-rich tara tree, a member of the carob family, is used in cosmetics as an anti-ageing agent.
Larch balm stimulates the circulation and has an antiseptic effect. Combined with
tea plant and caffeine, it strengthens the hair roots and consequently improves hair quality and volume.
An extract of golden sea fennel energises the scalp and replenishes the lipids of the hair and scalp. In combination with pro-vitamin B5 and algae extracts, it promotes hair growth and density.
Algae, such as oarweed or fingerweed, are rich in nutrients, carotenoids and moisture-binding sugars. Whether in serums or masks, they nourish the scalp and optimise hair quality.
Oils, whether marula oil, mongonga oil, baobab seed oil, argan oil or passion fruit or maracuja oil, are absorbed well by the scalp, are rich in omega fatty acids, moisturise and have an antioxidant effect.
Peptides such as biotinoyl tripeptide-1 or copper tripeptide-34 improve the scalp’s microcirculation, strengthen and enlarge the hair follicles, and improve the condition of the scalp and hair.
The watery extract from birch leaves, birch water, soothes and strengthens the scalp, has a balancing effect, promotes blood circulation and leaves a pleasant feeling of freshness.
Sage, whether in serum or mask, strengthens the scalp and hair, has an astringent and anti-inflammatory effect and helps to prevent dandruff.
Not to be forgotten are biotin, which supports the development of the scalp, and gold-of-pleasure oil, which promotes blood circulation, regeneration and revitalisation of the scalp and can extend the growth phase of the hair – whether as a serum, mask or care oil.
Scalp care for dry scalps
Does your scalp feel tight and dry? A hair mask, e.g. with shea or tucuma butter, can help.
Rose oil with rosehip oil (Rosa canina seed oil), Rosa multiflora (Rosa polyantha), potato rose (Rosa rugosa), centifolia (Rosa centifolia), Damascene rose (Rosa damascena) is a boon for dry scalps. It moisturises and, thanks to its anti-inflammatory and balancing effects, is also ideal for oily scalps, itchiness and dandruff.
Grape seed oil has a moisturising and healing effect. It not only relieves dryness of the scalp and hair, but also, thanks to the flavonoids it contains, slows down oxidative stress, thus supporting the health of the hair and scalp.
Evening primrose oil, which is high in linolenic acid, and jojoba oil also nourish and care for the scalp.
Shea butter keeps the scalp soft and smooth, is easily absorbed, is proven to be effective against dry dandruff and relieves itching.
Borage oil stimulates the skin barrier function, has an anti-inflammatory effect and cares for dry scalps.
And the honey mask is also a pampering highlight of the Scalpcare range.
Scalp care for oily scalps
Healing earth mask removes excess sebum and can be used regularly once a week for oily scalps.
Extracts of greater burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis) have an anti-inflammatory and astringent effect on oily scalps thanks to tannins and flavonoids in tincture or serum.
Rosemary, nettle and sage are known for their astringent, antiseptic and blood-circulation-enhancing effects on the scalp. They also promote hair growth, strengthen hair follicles, revitalise and refresh the scalp, especially when used as active ingredients in hair tonics or serums.
Astragalus root or buckthorn reduces sebum production in oily scalps, alleviates irritation and inflammation and improves skin hydration.
Scalpcare for sensitive scalps
Urea is a classic ingredient for reducing moisture loss. It can soothe dry scalps, help with dry dandruff and support healing processes. It can be easily incorporated into scalp serums, masks or shampoos.
Linoleic acid is found in many vegetable oils and is a component of ceramide I, an essential element of the skin barrier. It keeps the scalp supple, has an anti-irritant effect, reduces transepidermal water loss and is ideal for dry, flaky scalps, barrier and cornification disorders. It can be used to good effect in oils or serums for scalp care.
Panthenol has a moisturising effect, soothes the skin, reduces inflammation and irritation, promotes skin regeneration and strengthens the skin barrier. It is absorbed into the hair root via the scalp as a provitamin and converted into pantothenic acid in the skin.
It can be used effectively in scalp care as a serum or mask.
Not to be forgotten are lavender, brown or green algae, which soothe irritations of the scalp.
Scalpcare: anti-dandruff
Regular peeling can eliminate dandruff. To prevent it from returning, products with willow bark extract are recommended.
Willow bark strengthens the condition of the scalp, relieves itching and inflammation.
It can be used in shampoos. serums and tinctures.
Extracts from the bark of the joazeiro tree have been shown to be effective against dandruff, as well as having an antibacterial effect and relieving itching.
Scalp care for bald, hairless scalps
A scalp covered with hair requires special attention and care. But a hairless scalp, whether shaved intentionally or not, also needs special care. It should be cleansed with a mild shampoo and then a moisturising face or body cream applied.
Without the protection of hair, the scalp can dry out quickly in winter due to dry, heated air
and can benefit from a richer cream. In summer, it should be protected from the sun with a sun cream with a high sun protection factor. This also applies to bald scalps.
If the bald head is very shiny, it can be lightly powdered.
Scalp care: scalp massage
This is very popular with hairdressers and can also be done at home.
Depending on the condition of the scalp, an oil can be massaged in.
Place all the fingers of each hand opposite the thumb on the scalp, spread them apart, bring them together, gently circle the fingers and move them over the entire head for a few minutes.
Scalp brushes with soft bristles stimulate the blood circulation in the scalp, remove dandruff and support hair growth. If you have an oily scalp, be careful not to stimulate sebum secretion too much. The brushes can also be used to apply shampoo.
Massage spiders made of gold or silver, wooden brushes with natural rubber pneumatic cushions and rounded wooden pins allow for relaxing scalp massages.
Afterwards, clean the massage tools in a mild shampoo.
Scalpcare: a segment of its own
It is not visible, but it is fundamental for our well-being and the health of our hair: the scalp. It requires its own care: scalpcare. This is a large segment with many products and active ingredients.
Cosmacon is happy to advise you on discovering the many possibilities of scalp care.
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