Azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products

Introduction

The skin care needs of Black and People of Colour (BPoC) are unique and often more specific than those of Caucasian skin. Azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products is a promising active ingredient, especially for people of African descent. This blog post will explore the various skin issues that are common in Africa, the properties and benefits of azelaic acid, and its use in skin care products for the African market.

African skin needs and issues

African skin has some unique needs and is often prone to specific skin issues. Some of the most common issues are:

Hyperpigmentation: This is the common darkening of the skin after injuries such as acne or skin diseases.
Dryness and eczema: African skin can be prone to dryness and eczema, which causes itchy, dry and cracked skin.
Acne and pseudofolliculitis barbae: These are inflammatory conditions caused by ingrown hairs and are more common in men.
Seborrheic dermatitis: Scaly patches on the scalp and face are also common.

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid with the chemical formula C9H16O4. It is often obtained from grains such as wheat, rye and barley and is known for its multifunctional skin care properties.

Physical-chemical properties

INCI name: Azelaic Acid
CAS number: 123-99-9
Appearance: White to off-white powder
Solubility: soluble in glycols, glycerin and alcohols, readily dispersible in polar esters

Efficacy of azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products

Azelaic acid is a versatile active ingredient with several beneficial properties for skin care:

Reduction of hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, thus helping to reduce pigment spots.
Anti-acne properties: azelaic acid has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, which can be used to treat acne and associated skin blemishes.
Refining the skin’s structure: azelaic acid helps to improve the skin’s structure and refine its appearance.

Efficacy study with 52 subjects on azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products

A placebo-controlled clinical study was conducted with 52 women with dark or pigmented skin (phototype IV to VI) suffering from melasma. The study showed that the application of a cream with 20% azelaic acid over a period of 6 months led to a significant lightening of the pigmentation spots and a reduction in the size of the lesions. The subjects reported smoother skin and an overall improvement in skin appearance.

Use in cosmetic products

The following products are particularly beneficial for the African market and use azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products:

Serums and creams for hyperpigmentation: formulations with 10-20% azelaic acid are ideal for treating dark spots and uneven skin tones.
Anti-acne products: Non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic serums can help to reduce acne breakouts and clear pores.
Moisturisers: Azelaic acid can be used in moisturisers to soothe and hydrate the skin, especially for dry and eczema-prone skin.

Azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products – a conclusion

Azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products is a remarkable active ingredient. It offers versatile solutions for common skin problems such as hyperpigmentation, acne and skin irritation. Products containing this active ingredient are ideal for the specific needs of African skin, providing effective care that improves the appearance of the skin while promoting skin health. By incorporating azelaic acid for BPoC skincare products in cosmetics, manufacturers can succeed in the African market and meet the specific needs of the BPoC community.
Cosmacon has a lot of experience in formulating azelaic acid – please feel free to contact us.

Our Partner:

We are happy to work with the high-quality azelaic acid from our partner Azeco Cosmeceuticals B.V. Based in Herten, the Netherlands, Azeco is a leading supplier of azelaic acid and offers high-quality azelaic acid for the cosmetics industry.

Literature:

Azelaic acid 20% cream in the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation in darker-skinned patients

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9829446/