Alcohol In Cosmetics
Why is alcohol used in cosmetics at all?
Alcohol has a variety of functions in skin care products. For example, it can dissolve fat and kill bacteria, it supports the transport of certain active ingredients into the skin and contributes to the preservation of a product. When alcohol is used in cosmetics, the respective product feels pleasantly light and fresh to the user. In addition, the product dries particularly quickly with alcohol. In addition, alcohol is also an ideal extraction agent for high-quality natural extracts. However, (bad) alcohols can also cause massive damage to our skin. They have a negative effect on the natural protective layer of the skin. Anyone who regularly comes into contact with (bad) alcohol in cosmetics runs the risk in the long term that the skin will no longer be able to protect and recover itself optimally. If possible, therefore, only “good” alcohol should be used in cosmetics.
What is “good” and “bad” alcohol in cosmetics?
Monohydric alcohol used in cosmetic products is rather bad for our skin in a higher concentration. One example is ethanol (INCI: Alcohol). Ethanol in cosmetics is denatured alcohol, which means that it has been deliberately made undrinkable in a special process. This denaturing is often carried out using phthalates. These are very questionable chemical plasticizers that are absorbed through the skin and then pass into the blood. Phthalates can make people infertile and/or diabetic. This denatured alcohol in cosmetics usually appears on the INCI list under the terms “Alcohol denat.” and “SD Alcohol.” However, if you spot these terms on the list of ingredients you need not inevitably fear that they are harming your skin or health. Here, rather, the dose makes the poison.
We at Cosmacon also use ethanol, because this alcohol can contribute to a pleasant feeling of freshness in a wide variety of cosmetic products. It also provides valuable services in perfume development. However, we only use organic ethanol from sustainable production, which means that the questionable phthalates are not used for denaturing. Instead, denaturing is carried out with triethyl citrate or rose water. In addition, we only use ethanol in a maximum concentration of five percent. In our experience, this low concentration neither dries out the skin nor causes skin irritation.
These are the names of bad alcohol in cosmetics
In addition to the already mentioned types, Alcohol Denat., SD Alcohol, Alcohol and Ethanol, the following alcohol in cosmetics should also be treated with caution: The INCI designations Ethyl Alcohol, Methanol, Propyl Alcohol, Propanol, Isopropanol, Isopropyl Alcohol.
What is “good” alcohol in cosmetics?
“Good” alcohol in cosmetics means mainly fatty alcohols. They are made from fatty acids found in various parts of plants. Fatty alcohol in cosmetics is extremely mild and makes the skin beautifully supple. It does not dry it out, but on the contrary ensures that moisture remains in the skin. In addition, this alcohol in cosmetics does not cause pimples or blackheads.
On the INCI list, “good” alcohols can be found under the following names, among others:
Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lanolin Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol and Myristyl alcohol.
Many cosmetic products could not be manufactured without alcohol. We therefore also use alcohol in cosmetics as co-emulsifiers or consistency regulators. However, we consistently use the “good” alcohols pentylene glycol and propanediol, as well as long-chain “good” alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and beheny alcohol.
Alcohol in cosmetics: profiles of some common types
INCI: Ethanol / Alcohol
CAS number: 64-17-5
EINECS number: 200-578-6
Definition: a monohydric alcohol with the molecular formula C2H6O
Description: a colorless, burning smelling and tasting, highly flammable liquid
INCI: Pentylene Glycol
Definition: a polyhydric alcohol, colorless and odorless, soluble in water
Origin: produced from sugar cane bagasse
Effect: can bind water and thus contributes to moisture supply, inhibits the growth of undesirable microorganisms
Applications: mainly serves as a solubilizer
INCI: Propanediol
CAS number: 57-55-6
Description: a clear, colorless, strongly hygroscopic and almost odorless liquid
Extraction: produced by hydration of propylene oxide
Indications/action: promotes the formation of water-in-oil emulsions, has antimicrobial effects, acts as a co-surfactant in multicomponent systems, increases the suppleness of the skin
INCI: Cetyl Alcohol
Trivial name: Palmityl alcohol
Definition: a saturated, long-chain fatty alcohol with the empirical formula C16H340
Extraction: mainly from coconut oil
Description: a waxy white mass with matt shiny scales and grains
Properties: insoluble in water, but readily soluble in ethyl alcohol, ether and chloroform
Applications: as emulsifier, makes skin supple and smooth
INCI: Stearyl Alcohol
CAS number: 112-92-5
EINECS/EILINCS number: 204-017-6
Definition: a waxy fatty alcohol
Trivial name: Stearyl Alcohol
Effect: emulsion-stabilizing, foam-increasing, opacifying, softening, refatting, viscosity-regulating, ideal as a consistency agent
INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol
CAS number: 67762-27-0
EINECS number: 267-008-6
Definition: a stabilizer of vegetable origin, mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol
Description: a white, waxy solid
Applications: mainly as plasticizer and texture enhancer
INCI: Behenyl Alcohol
CAS numbe : 661-19-8
EINECS number: 211-546-6
Definition: a natural, vegetable, saturated fatty alcohol used to regulate viscosity in formulations.
Uses: for binding, emollient, emulsion stabilization and viscosity control.
INCI: Benzyl Alcohol
Definition: a natural constituent of numerous essential flower oils, fragrance and flavoring agent
CAS number: 100-51-6
EINECS number: 202-859-9
Applications: as preservative and solvent, for viscosity control and perfuming
INCI: Phenethyl Alcohol
CAS number: 60-12-8
EINECS Number: 200-456-2
Definition: a light rose-scented, colorless liquid that occurs naturally in neroli oil and rose oil
Applications: as a deodorizer
“Good” alcohol in cosmetics from Cosmacon
Alcohol in cosmetics should not be demonized in principle. What is important, however, is on the one hand the dose or concentration and on the other hand the type of alcohol. It goes without saying that Cosmacon relies on “good” and harmless alcohol in cosmetics, and of course in acceptable concentrations at all times. We would be happy to develop sophisticated and high-quality products for you, too!
Sources:
Safety evaluation of topical applications of ethanol on the skin and inside the oral cavity.; Lachenmeier DW., J Occup Med Toxicol. 2008 Nov 13;3:26.
Phthalate Exposure and Long-Term Epigenomic Consequences: A Review.; Front Genet. 2020 May 6;11:405.
Validation of an aggregate exposure model for substances in consumer products: a case study of diethyl phthalate in personal care products.; J Expo Sci Environ Epidemiol. 2015 May;25(3):317-23.