Aquaporins

Our human body consists of about 70 per cent water and includes approximately 100 billion cells. But how is the water actually distributed in our organism with all its nutrient salts? For this to work smoothly, channels and locks are required, similar to those in shipping: microscopically small, of course. These are located in the cell membranes and are proteins from a chemical point of view. The gates know their job very well and act as a kind of doorman in our body: water molecules are allowed to pass through a gate unhindered, but other substances such as nutrient molecules or salt ions are not. This works because charged ions get stuck at the gate and remain in the cell, while uncharged water molecules can continue on their way without any problems. It was the American molecular biologist Peter Courtland Agre who actually identified these microscopic channels and gates in kidney cells and red blood cells for the first time in 1992. In 2003, he and the American biochemist Roderick MacKinnon were awarded the Nobel Prize in Chemistry for their discovery. Agre named the proteins aquaporins, which translates roughly as ‘water gate’.

 

Aquaporins and their significance

Aquaporins can be found in all living things with a cell membrane: in humans, animals, plants and even in bacteria. Their discovery opened the door to a great deal of further biochemical, physiological and genetic research. In the meantime, science has long been able to follow the water molecules on their way through the membrane.

In humans, aquaporins are responsible, among other things, for regulating the water balance in the brain, the lens of the eye, the kidneys and the red blood cells. If the aquaporins no longer function properly, we become ill. Typical clinical pictures are diabetes insipidus, hearing loss and cataracts. The extensive knowledge about aquaporins provides medicine with a better and more detailed understanding of these and similar diseases. This may also open up new treatment options. In plants, aquaporins regulate water absorption; in mammals, they are involved in urine formation, among other things.

Functioning aquaporins have an extremely high water permeability. Despite their fine pores, up to three billion water molecules can pass through each channel per second. It is now also known that the proteins can be categorised into different types. They differ not only in their structure but also in their function. Some only transport water, while others specialise in urea or glycerol, for example.

 

What do aquaporins have to do with cosmetics?

In recent years, aquaporins have also been increasingly used in cosmetics. And for good reason, because they have a major influence on the moisture supply of our skin. After all, how healthy the skin is and what it looks like depends largely on its moisture supply. An adequate supply helps keep the skin radiant, vital and supple. It can also reduce wrinkles and lines. Aquaporin-stimulating agents can stimulate and increase the production of aquaporins, thus improving the skin’s moisture levels. These agents can also facilitate the transport of moisturising molecules and water through the skin barrier.

These active ingredients are already used in cosmetics, particularly in moisturising creams, serums and similar products for skin care and hydration. People with dry or sensitive skin benefit from these formulations, especially since they not only improve skin hydration but also reduce skin problems such as irritation or flaking.

However, aquaporin-stimulating active ingredients can vary greatly, and further studies are needed to definitively assess their safety and efficacy. Of course, cosmetic products should not contain any other harmful ingredients that could irritate or even damage the skin.

 

Aquaporins: These active ingredients are available

Urea

Urea can facilitate the transport of water through the skin barrier and thus improve the skin’s moisture supply. It is already used as a natural moisturiser in numerous skin care products.

Glycerine

Glycerine is able to boost the production of aquaporins. This proven active ingredient also helps to increase the skin’s moisture content.

Ceramides

These natural lipids are found in our skin barrier and make a valuable contribution to maintaining skin moisture. Some ceramides are able to increase aquaporin expression.

Plant extracts

Some plant extracts are also said to increase the number of aquaporins in the skin, thereby improving the supply of moisture.

Aquaporin-3 stimulating active ingredients

Aquaporin-3 is a specific aquaporin that is responsible for the transport of moisturising molecules such as glycerine in the skin. Some active ingredients are designed primarily to improve the production of aquaporin-3.

 

High-quality cosmetics with innovative active ingredients

With active ingredients that support the aquaporins and their function, the skin’s moisture supply can be tangibly improved. Cosmacon will develop customised formulas for you on request, with which, for example, the formation of aquaporins can be increased.