Bakuchiol Oil
When it comes to fighting wrinkles, retinol has established itself as the most used substance. This synthetically produced and highly concentrated form of vitamin A is one of the most effective active ingredients in the field of skin rejuvenation. However, many users are allergic to retinol. Fortunately, however, there is a completely natural and very gentle anti-aging alternative: bakuchiol oil. The substance has at least as positive properties as retinol, but does not cause skin irritation or other side effects in allergy sufferers or people with sensitive skin. In leading women’s magazines, Bakuchiol oil is already being described as a new anti-aging miracle weapon.
What is Bakuchiol?
The babchi plant (bakuchiol oil) belongs to the legume family and is native mainly to India, where it has been an integral part of traditional medicine for centuries. The annual plant can grow up to 90 centimeters high and bears light purple flowers. It is officially listed in the “Ayurvedic Pharmacopoeia of India”, published by the Indian Ministry of Health and Family Welfare. The “National Health Portal” also lists it among the “Common Medicinal Plants of Ayurveda”. In traditional medicine, the plant is used to produce diuretics, laxatives, but also aphrodisiacs. It is also used for leukoderma, psoriasis and leprosy.
For more information regarding the Indian healing art, see our blog post “ayurvedic cosmetics“.
Bakuchiol oil in cosmetics
For cosmetic purposes, the seeds of the babchi plant, which are usually harvested in December and January, are of particular interest. From them is extracted he natural plant active ingredient bakuchiol oil, which is similar in structure to the antioxidant resveratrol. Chemically, the active ingredient is a meroterpene of the terpenophenol class. Although the chemical structures of bakuchiol oil and retinol differ greatly, they act on similar cellular pathways. An interesting study on this topic has already been published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. According to this, bakuchiol oil is an effective (and tolerable) alternative to retinol, especially regarding the synthesis of collagen. Collagen forms the scaffolding that stretches across the skin. However, over the (years of) life, this scaffolding becomes increasingly unstable, so that wrinkles appear and the skin looks less firm overall. Bakuchiol oil stimulates the so important collagen synthesis. Thus, the application of appropriate preparations is said to increase the production of collagen types I, III and IV. Collagen I plays a major role in the skin, tendons, fibrocartilage, bones and dentin, as it has a fiber-forming effect within the collagen fibers. Collagen III has valuable effects on the skin, skeletal muscle, and blood vessels, as it has fiber-forming effects within reticulin fibers. Reticular collagen IV, on the other hand, has a great influence on cell metabolism and is found in the so-called basal lamina, which is part of the basement membrane.
In addition to its firming effect, bakuchiol oil also has antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. This means that, among other things, it eliminates bacteria (for example, Staphylococcus aureus) and germs and fights off harmful free radicals. The substance soothes inflammation and helps to ensure that pimples either heal or do not appear at all. Research has even already shown that bakuchiol oil is more effective against acne than salicylic acid. The substance is said to be able to reduce acne by more than 40 percent after 6 weeks. In addition, hyperpigmentation is said to decrease significantly as a result of the substance.
In a clinical study, 21 subjects aged 33-56 tested a cream containing bakuchiol oil at a concentration of 0.5 percent. After three months, significant improvements were seen in lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation (minus 59 percent hyperpigmentation).
Bakuchiol oil is also very suitable for the treatment of skin diseases. The active ingredient has already been used very successfully against psoriasis. In eczema and rosacea, however, bakuchiol oil should only be used in a very low concentration. The substance increases photosensitivity to a certain extent, so that strong sun exposure after application should be avoided. As sufficient data on reproductive and developmental effects are not yet available, use in pregnant and lactating women is not recommended for the time being.
Bakuchiol oil – better than retinol or the new Botox?
But apart from these few precautions: Bakuchiol oil is characterized by excellent tolerability and, compared to retinol, causes significantly less and less frequent flaking, burning, and itching.
The substance is basically suitable for all skin types: for oily, dry, and sensitive skin as well as for combination skin.
Bakuchiol oil is now available as a serum, oil and concentrate. The oil combines particularly well with almond, jojoba, coconut, and apricot kernel oil. In general, the active ingredient is suitable for creams, but also for boosters and masks. It is now even referred to by experts as herbal Botox, as the effect is relatively fast and strongly noticeable.
Positive side effect: apart from its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-aging effects, the substance has estrogen-like effects and is even said to help against osteoporosis.
Fact Sheet
INCI: Bakuchiol
CAS number: 10309-37-2
Alternative names: (S-E)-4-(3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadienyl)-phenol
Description: a yellow to yellow-brown liquid
Melting point: 106 degrees Celsius
Boiling point: 391 degrees Celsius
Effect: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial
We like to work with these raw materials containing bakuchiol:
| Trade Name | Company Name | INCI | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bakuchiol | Hangzhou Rebtech Novel Material Co., Ltd. | Bakuchiol | |
| Bakuchiol Natural | Gfn-Selco | Bakuchiol | |
| Sytenol A | Sytheon | Bakuchiol | |
| PromaCare BKL | Uniproma | Bakuchiol | |
| MICROSPONGE N 720BK | AMCOL Health & Beauty Solutions (HBS) | Cellulose , Bakuchiol | |
| Akoactive Nile Lily | Akott Evolution | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride , Zantedeschia Elliottiana Flower Extract , Bakuchiol | |
| Asyntra D-Stress | Sytheon | Isosorbide Dicaprylate , Bakuchiol , Ethyl Linoleate | |
| Herbapurifine | Evonik – Personal Care | Water , Butylene Glycol , Lecithin , Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract , Bakuchiol , Magnolia Grandiflora Leaf Extract |
Bakuchiol oil for sophisticated cosmetics from Cosmacon
Bakuchiol oil is still relatively rarely used in cosmetic products in Central Europe, but in the USA the active ingredient is already much more widespread. In view of its many positive properties, however, this could soon change, especially since the term is appearing more and more frequently in the relevant Internet search engines.
And this is not surprising, because the substance from the seeds of the babchi plant regulates the collagen production of the skin and thus leads to a significant tightening of the skin’s appearance.
In addition, it has a cleansing effect and prevents impurities. It also effectively combats pimples. Since bakuchiol oil9 is much more tolerable than retinol, which has a similar effect, the substance is really perfect for sophisticated modern cosmetics. Let Cosmacon advise you on this subject, we will be happy to support you in the development of effective formulations.
Sources:
Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing.; Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):289-296.
Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing – Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach.; Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Jun;44(3):377-393.
Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin.; Bacqueville D, Maret A, Noizet M, Duprat L, Coutanceau C, Georgescu V, Bessou-Touya S, Duplan H. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 May 13;13:359-370.
Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin.; Draelos ZD, Gunt H, Zeichner J, Levy S. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology : JDD. 2020 Dec;19(12):1181-1183.
Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Chaudhuri, Ratan K., and Francois Marchio.; Cosmetics and toiletries 126.7 (2011): 502.