Brightening
Brightening of complexion is an essential part of anti-aging cosmetics. The products are used for brightening the total skin tone, evening out irregular pigmentation and bleaching hyperpigmentation. They have preventive effects and remove existing pigment spots.
In Asia, brightening products – also called whitening, bleaching or lightening products – are high in demand. However, also for Central European skin, brightening is an essential topic.
The main cause of irregular pigmentation is UV light to which the skin responds with tanning.
In that process, reactive oxygen species are built in the keratinocytes which subsequently release inflammation mediators and melanocytes stimulating hormone (α-MSH). α-MSH regulates the melanin synthesis, the expansion of melanocytes and the dispersion of pigments. If it binds to a correspondent receptor, the expression of the tyrosinase gene is triggered. Tyrosinase is the key enzyme for the synthesis of melanin pigment. Melanin is produced in the organelles, melanosomes, within the melanocytes. They are transported to the adjacent keratinocytes via dendrites and distributed in the epidermis. Here, they cover the cellular nucleus like a protective shield and produce tanning.
Products for brightening can intervene in several steps of the pigmentation process to control the process, to reduce existent dark spots and provide an even complexion.
A well-proved trio for brightening
The leaves of hog cranberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) have been used for centuries in herbal medicine. They contain bacteriostatic substances and the brightening component arbutin which vehemently inhibits the tyrosinase activity. Arbutin is a natural derivative of hydroquinone but more stable and safer and suitable for regular use, even for a longer period. It is a safe, natural alternative to hydroquinone that has been forbidden to be used in cosmetics in the EU since 2001.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is used for versatile purposes in cosmetics, also for brightening.
It inhibits tyrosinase activity and oxidation of intermediate products of melanin synthesis. It also stimulates the renewal of fibroblasts, collagen production and is an antioxidant.
The tripeptide glutathione is a strong free radical scavenger produced by the body itself. It reactivates vitamin C by taking a radical from it. In further reaction steps, vitamin C and subsequently glutathione are recycled and become ready for action again. Both substances build a perfect antioxidation team.
In skincare products, glutathione protects against photo-aging and oxidative stress.
These three substances are combined in the active ingredient with trade name
NanoWhite (Mibelle Biochemistry) in a liposomal formulation to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin production and achieve a brightening effect. Glutathione and vitamin C boost the activity of arbutin with their brightening and antioxidant properties.
Clinic studies demonstrated the effectiveness of the active agent to reduce and help to prevent pigmentation irregularities and to impart a clear, radiant, even complexion.
Portrait:
INCI: NanoWhite (standard version): Lecithin (and) Arbutin (and) Linolenic Acid (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Glutathione (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua / Water
NanoWhite oA (Version without alcohol): Lecithin (and) Arbutin (and) Linseed Acid (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Glutathione (and) Glycerin (and) Aqua/Water
Trade name: NanoWhite
Description: liquid, without preservatives, alcohol-free version available
Recommended concentration of use: 2 – 5 %
Effect: inhibits melanin synthesis, antioxidant, brightening
Bright, radiant complexion with garden cress spouts
Sprouts are a great superfood because of the high concentration of plant active agents. For example, garden cress sprouts are rich in sulforaphane. Sulforaphane is an isothiocyanate, a sulfur-containing compound that gives garden cress the spicy-sharp taste.
These phyto-substances, also contained in cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, rapeseed, mustard, radish, horseradish, are said to have anti-cancer properties.
Moreover, sulforaphane can help to neutralize the reactive oxygens built due to UV rays and to inhibit the melanocytes stimulating hormone, α-MSH.
The active ingredient SulforaWhite (Handelsname, Mibelle Biochemistry) uses the extract of Swiss garden cress sprouts (Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract) in liposomes for optimal skin availability.
Thanks to its strong antioxidative effect, SulforaWhite reduces the influences of daily stress factors and helps to prevents melanin synthesis. The result is a clearer, radiant complexion.
In combination with NanoWhite (see before) synergetic activity is achieved.
The inhibition of melanin production (α-MSH activity) and the increase of the activity of skin’s own antioxidation system were proved in vitro as well as the stimulation of proteasomes that dispose of defective skin proteins.
Application tests showed that SulforaWhite is effective for Asian and for Central European pigmentation types and efficiently inhibits melanin production. Dark spots and discoloration became paler and complexion looked more even.
Portrait:
INCI: SulforaWhite (standard version): Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water
SulforaWhite nc (preservative-free version): Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract (and) Lecithin (and) Glycerin (and) Aqua / Water
Trade name: SulforaWhite
Description: liquid, water-soluble, without alcohol, version without preservatives available
Recommended concentration of use: 2 – 5%
Effect: brightening, protection against antioxidation, inhibits melanin production
Targeted action against dark spots
The term lentigo describes several sorts of pigmented skin spots like liver spots, freckles and dark spots. The last named appear on areas exposed to sun (face, back of the hand) and are caused be UV rays.
A desirable cosmetic solution targets only the discoloration of dark sport and does not influence the normal pigmented skin around. That is the only way to achieve an even skin tone. The skin with spots in most cases also has sun-caused damages like loss of elasticity, wrinkles, lack of moisture binding capacity and, therefore, the targeted depigmenting effect should be accompanied by firming, smoothing, hydrating benefits.
That is the promise of effectiveness of the active ingredient Delentigo™ (trade name, Mibelle Biochemistry). Unlike usual whitening products it does not generally whiten the skin but only reduces the darkening of spot. This effect is based on the extract of Swiss garden cress sprouts. (see before)
The other pillar is genistein. The soy isoflavone inhibits the enzyme tyrosine kinase involved in the synthesis of melanin from tyrosine. It increases collagen production and slows down collagen breakdown, inhibits photo-aging, wards off free radicals, repairs epidermal structures and reduces wrinkles.
To ensure the targeted and continual effectiveness of Delentigo™ it is encapsulated in a special vector system.
In vitro, the stimulation of proteasome activity in fibroblasts and the prevention of accumulation of lipofuscin (age pigment from oxidized protein and lipid clusters)
could be proved.
The application tests demonstrated that Delentigo™ selectively reduced the pigmentation of dark spots without bleaching the normally pigmented skin around. The result was an even skin tone. In addition, Delentigo™ prevented photo-aging and the formation of new pigmented spots.
Portrait:
INCI: Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract (and) Lecithin (and) Soy Isoflavones (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Alcohol (and) Glycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water
Trade name: Delentigo™
Description: liquid, water-soluble
Recommended concentration of use: 2 – 6 %
Effect: targeted brightening effect, antioxidant, protects against photo-aging
Brightening is an essential part of anti-aging.
It enhances skin’s visual appearance and contributes to its health by antioxidant mechanisms. Modern formulations interfere at different steps of melanin synthesis to prevent hyperpigmentation and are capable of targeted brightening of pigment spots.