Ceramides EOS NP AP
Ceramides are found in the human body in the corneal layer, among other places. They are valuable fats that play an essential role in the formation of the uppermost skin layer and enable the skin barrier to be maintained. They form a natural barrier that protects our skin from drying out and prevents foreign substances from penetrating. If there is an imbalance of the ceramides EOS, NP, AP, pathological skin changes such as psoriasis, neurodermatitis and other dermatoses are often the result. The different ceramides are subdivided into classes and correctly labeled with Roman numerals.
The substances were discovered as early as 1874, when the scientist and physician Johann Ludwig Thudichum initially found the group of substances very puzzling and gave it the name “sphingolipids”: a reference to the mysterious sphinx from Greek mythology. In 1932, the yeast Wickerhamomyces ciferrii was discovered on the tonka bean and it was found that this yeast produces significant amounts of the sphingoid base phytosphingosine. Then, in 1994, the Dutch company Cosmoferm succeeded in developing a fermentation process to produce phytosphingosine. Combined with various fatty acids, biobased skin-identical ceramides are thus produced.
Ceramides EOS, NP, AP and their importance for our skin
Ceramides I and III are particularly important for a good protective function of the human skin. They form a kind of “cement” between the tiny cells of the outer skin layer and prevent the skin from losing moisture uncontrollably. You could also say that this barrier is a basic requirement for healthy, supple and beautiful skin. Ceramide I is characterized above all by a high proportion of linoleic acid. Conversely, however, this also means that if the body is not supplied with sufficient linoleic acid, it will not be able to produce enough ceramides I. Ceramides EOS, NP, AP can be formed by certain cells in the body itself. However, as already described using the example of linoleic acid, some of the building blocks required for this synthesis are often missing. This leads to an undersupply which may result in the skin diseases mentioned in the introduction. Skin care products containing ceramides EOS, NP, AP therefore also occupy an enormously important position in medical cosmetics. They can significantly alleviate skin diseases and the associated unpleasant side effects. Ceramides EOS, NP, AP are usually obtained biotechnologically from rice or soybean oil with the aid of yeast. This process makes it possible to produce high-quality and effective active ingredients.
Fact Sheet Ceramide I
INCI: Ceramide EOS
Alternative name: Ceramide 1
Components:
- EO: esterified omega hydroxy fatty acid. The fatty acid is usually linoleic acid, but can also be behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid or oleic acid.
- S: stands for sphinogsin base
Fact Sheet Ceramides III
INCI: Ceramides NP
Alternative name: Ceramide 3
Components:
- N stands for its type of normal fatty acid.
- P stands for its phytosphingosine base
Fact Sheet Ceramides VI
INCI: Ceramide AP
Alternative name: Ceramide 6
Component: α-hydroxy-N-stearoylphytosphingosine
Ceramides EOS, NP, AP in cosmetics
Ceramides can help repair and restore the skin’s natural barrier, which in turn can help prevent moisture loss and reduce the penetration of irritants and allergens. By improving the skin’s ability to retain moisture, ceramides can help keep skin hydrated and soft, and may reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Meanwhile, the valuable ceramides EOS, NP, AP are also found in many creams for mature, dry skin. They effectively protect against moisture loss and harmful environmental influences, make the skin plumper and more supple. But it is also possible to stimulate the body’s own formation of ceramides EOS, NP, AP again. Studies have shown, for example, that creams containing evening primrose oil and moisture-binding urea encourage the skin to produce ceramides EOS, NP, AP.
But the substances are important not only for the skin, but also for our hair. As putty substances, they are able to efficiently improve and strengthen the hair cuticle. Shampoos and conditioners containing ceramides can repair brittle areas in the hair, making it look much healthier and more vibrant again. Normally, ceramides EOS, NP, AP occur naturally in human hair. But here, too, there may be an undersupply for various reasons. Appropriate hair care products are therefore a highly effective way to protect hair from damage and help it regain flexibility.
We like to work with these ceramides or ceramide-containing active ingredients:
| Trade Name | Company Name | INCI | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ceramide NP | SOHO ANECO Chemicals Co., Limited | Ceramide NP | |
| Anallerg Ceramide NP | COSROMA | Ceramide NP | |
| JY-CERAMIDE NP | INABATA | Ceramide NP | |
| AC-Ceramide NP SANIO | SOHO ANECO Chemicals Co., Limited | Ceramide NP | |
| iActive Ceramide NP 5 | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin | |
| Anallerg Ceramide NP-6P | COSROMA | Ceramide NP, Glycerol Formal, Octyldodecanol, Lecithin, Cholesterol, Water | |
| Ceramide III | Evonik – Personal Care | Ceramide NP | |
| Ceramide III B | Evonik – Personal Care | Ceramide NP | |
| DS-CERAMIDE Y3S | Doosan Corporation | Ceramide NP | |
| Ceramide III EP MB | Evonik – Personal Care | Ceramide NP | |
| Bodyflux Olive | Evonik – Personal Care | Ceramide NP | |
| DS-HydroCeramide50 | Doosan Corporation | Ceramide NP | |
| SPHINOX Lift | Evonik – Personal Care | Ceramide NP | |
| Ceracare H5 | NFC Corporation | Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin | |
| DS-CERIX5 | Doosan Corporation | Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Aqua | |
| ELOPERS HYMIDE-5 | LG Household & Healthcare | Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin | |
| Ceracare H30EX-GF | NFC Corporation | Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Dipropylene Glycol | |
| Ceralink+ | Solabia Group | Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Ceramide NP | |
| PromaCare CRM Complex | Uniproma | Ceramide NP, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Water | |
| DS-HydroCeramide 50S | Doosan Corporation | Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sucrose Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate | |
| Phytocompo-C | NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL CO., LTD. | Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosterols, Ceramide NG, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP | |
| CX-Talc | Chemland Co., Ltd. | Talc, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Hexyldecanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide NP | |
| iActive Ceramide | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AS, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Sucrose Distearate, Propylene Glycol | |
| UTMF Cer III (PF) | Infinitec | Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethiconol, Lecithin, Ceramide NP | |
| CERAPLEX | Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) | Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Squalane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ceramide NP, Phytosterols, Stearic Acid | |
| Ceracare MLS AC45 | NFC Corporation | Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AS, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, 2,3-Butanediol | |
| CERAPLEX MIX AQUA | Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA, Phytosterols, Stearic Acid, Ceramide NP | |
| Cellike | BioSpectrum, Inc. | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Glycerin, Phytosterols, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ceramide NP | |
| Phyto Ceramidyl Omega N | COBIOSA | Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Aqua, Glycerin, Ceramide NP, Citric Acid, Tocopherol | |
| EMortal | BioSpectrum, Inc. | Propanediol, Aqua, Phytosterols, Lecithin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ceramide NP | |
| Bimiol BSC 035 Green | Rahn AG | Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid, Squalane, Ceramide NP |
Ceramides: the “mortar” that protects our skin
Ceramides are lipids that play an important role in maintaining the integrity and barrier function of the skin. Without the valuable ceramides EOS, NP, AP, our skin would be dry, flaky, and irritated. Skin diseases would set in, affecting not only our appearance, but also to a significant extent our well-being. And our hair would also be dull, lackluster, and straw-like without ceramides. The fact that scientists have succeeded in using the substances for cosmetic products is therefore an immensely important advance. The fats are often underestimated by laymen: yet they are among the indispensable building blocks. If you would also like to market your cosmetic products with this skin-own lipid, please feel free to contact us.
Sources:
A daily regimen of a ceramide-dominant moisturizing cream and cleanser restores the skin permeability barrier in adults with moderate eczema: A randomized trial.; Dermatol Ther. 2021 Jul;34(4):e14970.
Enhancing Skin Health: By Oral Administration of Natural Compounds and Minerals with Implications to the Dermal Microbiome.; Int J Mol Sci. 2018 Oct 7;19(10):3059.
Skin lipids in health and disease: A review.; Chem Phys Lipids. 2021 May;236:105055.
Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function-improving capabilities of ceramide-containing formulations: A qualitative review.; J Dermatol. 2021 Dec;48(12):1807-1816