Certified Natural Cosmetics
Cosmetics are meeting this demand by rebranding, incorporating natural approaches and redefining what “natural” should mean.
Terms like vegan, GMO-free, certified organic, sustainability, not tested on animals, fair trade, transparency, clean beauty are becoming increasingly important.
Certified natural cosmetics seals from independent bodies underline their willingness to transform processes and provide consumers with guidance to find products that suit their conscious lifestyle.
In the following, we provide an overview of various seals that are suitable for use as Certified Natural Cosmetics.
ORGANIC AND NATURAL
The concept of “natural” refers to formulations that contain mostly ingredients from natural sources and are produced according to green practices.
Some common natural ingredients are water, minerals and physically processed ingredients from agriculture (e.g., plant extracts, plant oils or purified plant actives). Ingredients of non-natural origin are, for example, preservatives, additives or solvents of petrochemical origin, such as propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, BHT, etc.
The concepts of “natural” and “organic” often go hand in hand, but are nevertheless different and are distinguished by the certifications.
An organic cosmetic product contains ingredients from organic farming (such as crop rotation or the use of compost instead of chemical fertilisers). An organic product is always natural, but a natural product is not necessarily organic.
COSMOS
The COSMOS Standard is managed by the Brussels-based independent association COSMOS Standard AISBL and is under constant development with the founding members (BDIH/Germany, Comébio/France, Ecocert/France, ICEA/Italy, Soil Association/UK).
The COSMOS Standard is currently applied to almost 40,000 cosmetic products and ingredients in 70 countries and is one of the most widely used Certified Natural and Organic Cosmetics in the world.
The standard provides certification/approval for cosmetic products and raw materials and covers not only natural and organic ingredients, but also sustainability and the use of ingredients that are safe for both the environment and humans.
It defines 5 categories of ingredients for cosmetic products: Water, Mineral Substances, Physically Processed Agro-Ingredients, Chemically Processed Agro-Ingredients and Others.
Since some products contain a lot of water and mineral ingredients that may not be of organic origin, the percentage organic is given minus these ingredient categories.
Four signatures are awarded by COSMOS, two for products, two for ingredients.
COSMOS ORGANIC: The signature is available for products that comply with the Cosmos Standard in all respects and contain at least 95% organic content according to the Cosmos Standard.
COSMOS NATURAL: The signature is available for products that comply with the Cosmos Standard in all respects but do not require a minimum proportion of organic ingredients.
COSMOS CERTIFIED: The signature is available for physically processed and chemically processed agricultural ingredients with biological and natural content according to the Cosmos Standard.
COSMOS APPROVED: The signature is available for non-organic raw materials that are approved for use in cosmetic products certified according to the Cosmos Standard.
The requirements for Cosmos certified cosmetic products also address health and environmental risks, sustainability and the origin and processing of ingredients. The standard prohibits animal testing unless required by law, the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and synthetic raw materials (with some exceptions). It regulates palm oil, palm kernel oil and their derivatives, which must be certified sustainable (CSPO).
The Cosmos Standard is currently being revised and a new version will be published in 2022.
NATRUE
This certification is very common in some countries, e.g., Germany, and represents one of the highest quality standards in the industry. It is awarded for raw materials and finished products. So far 6900 products are certified and 700 raw materials are certified and approved.
It divides the approved ingredients into 3 categories:
- natural substances, nature-identical substances and derivatives of natural substances, all of which must be free of genetically modified organisms.
- Nature-identical substances are only permitted if they cannot be obtained from nature without reasonable technical effort (e.g., inorganic pigments and minerals, nature-identical preservatives).
- Derivatives of natural substances should preferably be natural in their source material. Examples are fats, oils, waxes, lecithin, proteins, lipids, polysaccharides. Certain processes are permitted for extraction (e.g., esterification).
The standard provides for different product categories, none of which allows added water to be included in the proportions. Water is only considered a natural substance if it comes directly from a plant source (in other words, if it is obtained directly from plant juices).
Natural cosmetics must contain a certain minimum content of natural substances and a maximum content of naturally derived raw materials. The proportions for specific product types are listed in a table on the Natrue website.
Natural cosmetics with organic content: Here, 70% natural substances and natural substance derivatives must come from controlled organic production,
Organic cosmetics: here the proportion should be 95%.
Animal testing is rejected by Natrue as a matter of principle. In addition, criteria are set for the protection of the environment, biodiversity and compliance with sustainability.
Only brands of which 75% of the total products are eligible for the Natrue label can apply for the Natrue label.
The standard is continually reviewed by the Scientific Committee and revised when necessary.
ISO 16128
This standard also applies to certified natural cosmetics.
The International Organisation for Standardisation is an independent organisation with about 160 members. It develops quality standards for many industries, including cosmetics.
The standard was created to provide an internationally uniform definition for organic and natural products. It can be used in conjunction with other certifications. It provides a measurement tool for brands, but is not intended to be used to make marketing claims. marketing claims from it.
It defines criteria for natural and near-natural as well as organic and derived organic ingredients.
Water is always considered a natural ingredient, but is only considered organic under certain criteria.
In addition, there are non-natural ingredients.
The standard also states that ingredients from genetically modified plants in certain regions can be considered natural ingredients and provides definitions for these ingredients.
It has existed since 2017 and is primarily a technical standard.
The proportion of regenerative carbon atoms in relation to the total proportion of carbon atoms in the ingredient is calculated.
ISO 16128 does not set limits for a cosmetic product to be considered organic and/or natural. However, it can be said that a proportion of natural carbon atoms of at least 50 percent meets the ISO definition of natural.
The numerical approach makes individual raw materials and finished products more comparable and is therefore increasingly used by raw material suppliers and cosmetic manufacturers.
USDA
In the USA, “natural” is not a regulated term in cosmetics. It is different from “organic”. Here, there is a regulation by the US Department of Agriculture (USDA). This certification states the requirements for products that are considered organic according to the National Organic Product Certification (NOPC).
Cosmetics, skin and body care products are eligible for 4 organic labels:
100 percent organic: The product must contain only organically produced ingredients (except water and salt).
Organic: The product must contain at least 95 percent organically produced ingredients (excluding water and salt). The remaining ingredients must be non-agricultural substances that are permitted in the National List or non-organically produced agricultural products that are not commercially available in organic form and are also found in the National List.
Made with organic ingredients: Products contain at least 70 per cent organically produced ingredients and the product label may list up to three of the organic ingredients on the label.
Less than 70 per cent organic ingredients: They may not use the term “organic” on the label. However, they can list the specific ingredients that are USDA certified as organically produced on the ingredient statement.
Ecolabel
The Ecolabel, the Euroflower, is awarded to products and services that have a lower environmental impact than others and is therefore also of interest to Certified Natural Cosmetics. It was introduced in 1992 and has also been applied to services since 2000. It is awarded in all EU member states and is also valid in Norway, Iceland, Switzerland and Liechtenstein.
The EU Ecolabel is not exclusive to cosmetics, but also includes other products such as textiles, paints or cleaning agents, and currently covers 70,000 products and services.
It guarantees that certified products minimise their impact on the water ecosystem, meet strict biodegradability requirements and control their packaging waste. With regard to cosmetics and skin care products, the Ecolabel consequently focuses on rinse-off products. In addition, there is the requirement for sustainable sources of palm oil, palm kernel oil or their derivatives.
GfaW
The Society for Applied Science awards four Certified Natural Cosmetics:
NC Seal Natural Cosmetics, Organic Cosmetics and Vegan Natural Cosmetics, Vegan Organic Cosmetics.
The NC Seal Organic for organic cosmetics is awarded to products whose ingredients of agricultural origin are 95% certified organic.
Demeter
The Demeter seal is primarily known for food of biodynamic quality, but is also used for certified natural cosmetics. The highest level of Demeter certification requires a minimum of 90% raw materials from Demeter contract farming. Demeter also vouches for the observance of biodynamic processes and the principles of the anthroposophist Rudolf Steiner in the processing of raw materials and the production of cosmetics.
VEGAN / VEGETARIAN
Vegan or vegetarian seals are about the fact that no animal substances are used. This is why these seals are also suitable for certified natural cosmetics.
Vegan Flower
The Vegan Flower has been awarded by the Vegan Society, founded in 1944, since 1990. It currently appears on 52,000 products, including cosmetics, clothing, food and household items.
The Vegan Flower identifies products that do not contain animal ingredients. The manufacturing process is also free of animal ingredients. The Vegan Flower is only awarded to individual products.
EVE-VEGAN
Certification Expertise Vegan Europe has written a certification for vegan products that is internationally valid for products that do not contain substances of animal origin and are not tested on live animals. The certification covers different product categories besides cosmetics, such as food and beverages, and does not require certified organic.
The Vegan Standard 2019 presents the minimum criteria agreed upon by all vegan associations in Europe.
It provides for 3 categories:
- Class 01: free from animal substances, not tested on animals, without technical substances of animal origin.
- Class 02: free of animal substances, not tested on animals, without technical substances of animal origin, 95% of the ingredients from certified organic agriculture.
- Class 03: describes a production method in accordance with the EVE-VEGAN® standard.
The certification shows rules on the following topics: Ingredients, processing procedures, packaging, production and laboratory testing.
V-LABEL
As early as in the 1970s, the V with the leaf in the upper right corner was used as a symbol for the vegetarian lifestyle. It became internationally known through its presentation at the first European Vegetarian Congress in 1985. Today, the V is used as part of many logos in the vegetarian or vegan scene.
The EU’s V-label certification prohibits the use of genetically modified organisms and eggs from caged hens. It also includes packaging, fertilisation and cultivation methods and traces of substances and impurities in its regulations.
It encourages the avoidance of fertilisers containing substances of animal origin and the voluntary declaration of the potential presence of minimal traces of contamination with allergens or animal products during the production process.
The V-label has established itself primarily in the food sector in Germany and Switzerland, but is now increasingly finding its way into gastronomy and cosmetics.
It is used with the addition Vegetarian or Vegan and is awarded in Germany by ProVeg e.V.
ANIMAL WELFARE LABELS
Different labels indicate that a product has been produced without animal testing. In this respect, this label is recommended as a supplement for certified natural cosmetics.
Although animal testing on finished products has not been allowed in the EU since 2013, a company can carry out animal testing outside the EU or have it carried out if it sells the products in non-EU countries.
Cruelty-free
This label from PETA, the world’s largest animal rights organisation, stands for products made without animal suffering or testing. It guarantees that cosmetic products, both the end products and the raw materials, are not tested on animals.
The leaping bunny
The Leaping Bunny on cosmetics and household products was the first recognised symbol for products that are free from animal testing. The certification guarantees that neither the product nor its ingredients have been tested on animals. The definition of the standard only allows in vitro testing or testing on volunteers. Leaping Bunny certification must be renewed every year and companies can be audited to see if they are complying with the rules.
Leaping Bunny was founded by an international network of animal welfare organisations in 1996 and certifies companies in the USA, Canada and the European Union.
Rabbit with protective hand
The logo of the German Animal Welfare Association may only be used if no animal experiments have been carried out on the product.
CLEAN BEAUTY
In cosmetics, these certifications refer to the fact that companies strive to use fewer ingredients and include more natural substances and is therefore indicated for Certified Natural Cosmetics.
The “without” or “free from” is expected by consumers from companies in the sense of transparency. It is about shorter ingredient lists where natural substances predominate.
The Credo Clean StandardTM
The Credo Clean StandardTM requires brands to be transparent about their product safety, extraction (natural, synthetic, multiple sources), ethical basis and sustainability. The standard strives for a specific definition of Clean Beauty through several measures. For example, it has drawn up a list of 2700 ingredients (Dirty List) that companies must avoid for reasons of product safety and sustainability.
They must disclose information about their ingredients, their composition and extraction. They must test their products for safety on voluntary test subjects. The certification recommends the official ingredient terminology (INCI).
Halal certified
The certificate applies to food and cosmetics. It is based on Halal regulations and prohibitions. Halal originally comes from the regulations of Islamic law and initially referred to food. In the meantime, however, Halal has also become interesting for many people outside of religion, as the products offer a way to act in a socially responsible, environmentally conscious way and for the welfare of animals.
Halal regulations state, for example, that products must not contain meat from dead animals, from pigs, game and carnivorous animals or birds of prey, nor gelatine and fluids from these animals. Animals should be slaughtered according to Islamic law in such a way that their lives are ended quickly and painlessly.
Plant foods should not be fermented and should be free of additives. Genetically modified organisms and products from the human body (e.g., keratin) are prohibited as raw materials.
In addition, there are various other regulations, such as the cleaning of equipment according to halal regulations.
Halal products are ideal for vegans and allergy sufferers and consumers who pay attention to certified natural cosmetics, as they are free of animal substances, alcohol, silicones, paraffin.
Islamic Information Documentation Certification GmbH is the first European certification body to receive accreditation from the Halal Accreditation Agency.
SUSTAINABILITY
Sustainability is a holistic concept that includes all product processes in the certification. Some criteria are: Extraction of ingredients from renewable raw materials, respecting and preserving biodiversity, ethically correct working conditions. The concept can overlap with organic harvesting and products that are harmless to the oceans. It includes production processes that are in line with sustainability, including a reduced carbon footprint or the use of environmentally friendly packaging, as well as protection of biodiversity, and thus lends itself to this aspect of Certified Natural Cosmetics.
UEBT
The Union for Ethical Biotrade was founded in 2007, following an initiative of the UN Conference on Trade and Development, which produced the Bio Trade Initiative.
In 2015, UEBT launched certification for natural ingredients.
In 2018, it started ethical sourcing system certification (with Weleda and Natura Cosmetics as partners).
In 2021, UEBT launched the Herbs & Spices programme in collaboration with the Rainforest Alliance.
The Amsterdam-based not-for-profit association promotes the use of natural resources through respect for biodiversity and sustainability.
It defines practices and guides companies to respect biodiversity as well as people.
It is thus complementary to organic certifications with a focus on sourcing ingredients in a sustainable and environmentally friendly way. UEBT certifies brands that do not engage in actions that reduce biodiversity, such as deforestation, use of pesticides, and rewards positive actions for biodiversity, such as protecting endangered species and pollinators (bees) and enriching the natural ecosystem.
UEBT offers certifications in the food and cosmetics industries.
Eco-Control
The label was developed by the Inspection and Certification Body for Organic Products and Quality Assurance Systems. It can be used for raw materials and quality assurance systems of natural cosmetics manufacturers. It also emphasises transparency of manufacturing processes and a holistic company philosophy. The companies must sustainably include the environment, society, employees and suppliers. The seal requires that all ingredients used are based on natural raw materials.
FSC – Forest Stewardship Council
The ingredients are harvested in such a way that the extraction does not harm the ecosystem, the animal and plant world or people.
For certified natural cosmetics, the seal of the non-profit organisation founded in 1993 and based in Bonn is of interest with regard to the wood used for brushes, pencils, cosmetic tissues, paper for packaging.
RSPO
The RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) certification responds to the demand of many consumers and companies for a standard that guarantees the use of sustainable palm oil and its derivatives.
The RSPO specifies a set of criteria that must be met in order to deliver Certified Sustainable Palm Oil (CSPO). They are based on environmental and social standards and aim to reduce the impact of palm oil extraction on communities and their environment. Over 4000 companies have achieved certification.
RSPO certifications include:
IDENTITY PRESERVED: sustainable palm oil from a single certified and identifiable source. It is separated from ordinary palm oil throughout the supply chain.
SEGREGATED: sustainable palm oil from different certified sources, separated from ordinary palm oil through the supply chain.
MASS BALANCE: sustainable palm oil from certified sources blended with ordinary palm oil through the supply chain.
RSPO CREDITS / BOOK & CLAIM: the presence of sustainable palm oil in the supply chain is not verified. Manufacturers and retailers can buy RSPO certified palm oil from other manufacturers, blending suppliers and small independent producers.
FAIR TRADE
Fair trade seals are primarily about ethically responsible relationships with those involved in the supply chain, fair prices. Aspects of sustainability and biodiversity can be added and thus fit in with Certified Natural Cosmetics.
B Corporation
Or B Corp stands for Benefit Corporation and recognises companies that score high in terms of corporate governance, treatment of employees, relationships with the communities in which they operate and environmental protection.
B Corporation is a certification for social and environmental performance and stands for environmental commitment and transparency.
It has offices in the USA, Europe, Canada, Australia, New Zealand.
Fair for Life
The label for cosmetics, textiles and food is one of the few seals that does not charge a licence fee for the use of the logo, but only fees for the audit and certification effort.
The label was developed by the Swiss Organic Foundation and the Institute for Marketecology (IMO). In 2017, the IMO Fair for Life Standard and the Ecocert Fair Trade Standard were merged. The demanding criteria relate to social responsibility, environmental protection, the prohibition of animal testing, fair trade and respect for customers. For a cosmetic product to use the seal, it must contain at least 70% certified ingredients. Some key ingredients must be sourced in Fair for Life quality. While some criteria must be met in the first year, the others can be met in the next three years. For a final product to be labelled Fair for Life, the entire supply chain must be certified. Today, over 700 companies are certified by the Fair for Life organisation.
Fairtrade label
It identifies goods that originate from fair trade and meet certain social, environmental and economic criteria during production.
All ingredients in a cosmetic product that are Fair Trade raw materials must also be Fair Trade. The seal must appear with the words “with Fair Trade ingredients” and indicate what percentage and which ingredients are Fair Trade certified.
Since these are often natural, we list them under Certified Natural Cosmetics
Cosmacon will be happy to advise you…
It is not easy to decide on a seal. All seals have advantages and disadvantages and ultimately cost money and a lot of time. Many seal providers act as if they were “assessing the raw materials for the first time” although they are certainly already available in their databases.
This costs a lot of time and here you already have to accept 2-6 months for the certification, because the sealers do not work according to priority. If you want it to be quick, we recommend the natural cosmetics standard ISO 16128, which takes 7-10 days…and costs a one-time fee of 375 € including the seal. Please ask for more information…