Dermocosmetics: a scientific trend

Dermocosmetics are a growing trend in cosmetics with special focus on following facts:

They are medically inspired, offer proven high efficacy, safety, and comfort, are recommended by dermatologists, and represent breakthrough innovations with promising ingredients.

In dermocosmetics, beauty and health are particularly closely connected.

Established skin care brands choose the healthy beauty approach. They support long-term skin health, promote good skin conditions, adopt more medical positioning and more explicit claims on efficacy.

New emerging skin care brands shift emphasis to the beautifying of health.

They differ from the established dermo-cosmetic space by dermal science-inspired lines and often are founded by doctors or medically-trained specialist or inspired by esthetic medicine, thus communicating expertise and efficacy.

 

Market and consumer trends

Dermocosmetics are a strong growing market worldwide.

Consumers seek safe and medically inspired products to target specific skin conditions.

An increasing number of consumers prefer cosmeceutical products to achieve medicinal or drug-like benefits, perceived as effective with fast results.

Consumer demands reinforce established skin care brands, also moving towards dermocosmetics positioning; smaller natural brands and traditional medicine; new emerging brands with dermo-inspired terminology.

A key statement of consumers is: I trust products with clinical approach and claims scientifically proven.

A major percentage of them is influenced by dermatologist recommendations, treat their skin condition according to prescription, experience problem skin conditions (sensitivity, acne, dermatitis, eczema), use pharmacy skincare, products recommended by doctors or dermatologists (according to Mintel survey).

 

Dermocosmetics key ingredients targeted to skin conditions

Dermocosmetics use active ingredients that are medically inspired, well-known proven molecules that naturally exist in the skin and are essential for its health as well as bioactives inspired by dermatologist prescription and high-performing molecules such as vitamins A, B, C, and peptides.

That translates into active ingredient trends of dermocosmetics, namely:

 

Molecular peptides.

These are high-performing molecules clearly defined to be safe for skin.

The multifunctional peptides are set of natural ingredients for maintaining as well as revitalizing a healthy skin microbiome. Consumer jump from “fixing a problem” to a fuller set of benefits that make skin younger and healthier-looking, with anti – aging peptides playing a key role.

 

Microbiome pathway

Personalized solutions target special skin conditions by influencing the microbiome pathway.

Focus on pre-pro-post biotics

Growing consumer awareness that skin problems are associated with disrupting skin microbiome. Prebiotics are an emerging set of natural ingredients for maintaining as well as revitalizing a healthy skin microbiome

 

Power of nature

These actives focus on powerful phytochemicals.

Consumers continue choosing products with “traditional” active ingredients and easily recognizable natural ingredients. Consumers look for products that contain “natural/clean ingredients and active ingredients” before “brand name”.

 

Dermocosmetics are focused on skin conditions

In the following you find the main skin issues and examples of suitable active ingredients of dermocosmetics (all by BASF). They all have proven their efficacy and achieve visible results.

 

OILY SKIN

Betapur® (trend: power of nature):

The leaf extract of Peumus Boldus reduces blemishes and red blotches and improve skin’s radiance. It is effective against cutibacterium acnes, refines skin texture and minimizes visible pores.

Peptovitae® Clear (trend:  molecular peptides)

The biomimetic peptide is conjugated with salicylic acid. It helps to reduce pimples and oily skin. With its anti-microbial effect, it decreases cutibacterium acnes inflammatory response and reduces sebum production by sebocytes.

Bix’Activ® (trend: microbiome pathway / power of nature)

The seed extract of Bixa Orellana reduces oiliness and skin flaws such as enlarged pores. It controls the production of lipids and reduces hyperkeratinization with the result of decreased shininess and pore size.

Scalposine® (trend:  molecular peptides/ microbiome pathway)

For oily scalp. The natural sarcosine molecule has purifying effects, limits oiliness and normalizes oily scalp microbiome. As a result, the scalp feels more comfortable and regreasing of hair and scalp is delayed.

 

DEHYDRATED SKIN

PatcH2O® (trend:  molecular peptides)

This technology rebalances the water content in skin and scalp with immediate, cumulative and long-lasting effect. It increases the storage and diffusion of L-serine and urea in the stratum corneum and limits water evaporation over 48 hours.

Hydagen Aquaporin® (trend:  molecular peptides)

The 100% natural glyceryl glucoside helps to support skin hydration. Thanks to its water- und glycerol-binding power it fixes moisture in the skin and enhances cellular energy. By promoting the formation of aquaporin-3 in epidermal cells it strengthens skin’s natural moisture network.

Phytosoothe® (trend: microbiome pathway / power of nature)

It is based on natural phytosterols which are known for their restoring effects on skin’s physical barrier and the microbial barrier by recovering own resident bacteria and fighting potential pathogenic germs.

Relipidum® (trend: microbiome pathway)

The product of bacterial fermentation stimulates epidermal lipid synthesis, it supports skin barrier and its repair. It strengthens skin’s defenses by rebalancing its ecosystem and its ability to detect pathogens. Skin is rehydrated and feels calmed.

 

SENSITIVE SKIN

Sacred Patch®  (trend: molecular peptides)

The patch technology combines with Japanes algae rich in sacran, which is known to enhance skin barrier function and reduce trans-epidermal water loss in dry skin. Skin feels more comfortable and is less prone to irritations.

Inolixir® (trend: power of nature)

Chaga mushroom extract reduces redness and improves skin comfort and health. It strengthens skin barrier function and the microvascular network and reduces pro-inflammatory responses. The extract is obtained by innovative subcritical water extraction.

Hydrasensyl® Glucan Green (trend:  molecular peptides)

Beta-glucan offers immediate and long-lasting hydration. Similar to hyaluronic acid, it consists of a long chain of sugar molecules which are highly capable of binding water and soothing skin by reducing inflammatory reactions.

PeptAIde® 4.0 (trend:  molecular peptides)

The peptide with selected sequences targets sensitive skin and reduces silent inflammatory processes. It soothes skin and scalp.

 

AGING

Nephoria® (trend: power of nature)

The extract of the leaves of rambutan tree has retinol-like effects for wrinkle-reduction.

Replexium® (trend:  molecular peptides)

Two peptides combine in a synergistic complex to reduce wrinkles and increase skin firmness. The benefits become visible within 3 weeks, faster than with other peptides.

Seanactiv® (trend: power of nature)

 ist rich in fucoidan

The extract from fucus vesiculosus is rich in fucoidin. It is special for the eye contour, reducing dark circles, crow’s feet lines and undereye dullness within one week.

RNAge® (trend: power of nature)

It is based on sea buckthorn seed extract that is able to down-regulate a specific microRNA to increase the synthesis of collagen III and V fibers. It combats sagging and recovers density and firmness.

Peptovitae® Matrix (trend: molecular peptides)

The biomimetic peptide with anti-photo-aging, anti-wrinkle, and lifting effects protects against oxidative stress and UV-induced damage.

Peptovitae® Bright (trend:  molecular peptides)

The biomimetic peptide helps to increase overall brightness. It reduces melanin in the skin by inducing the melanosome degradation in keratinocytes and inhibiting melanin transfer.

DN-Aura® (trend: power of nature)

The epigenetic natural extract of Lancsium domesticum leaves reduces pigmented spots and reduces melanin production by upregulating miR expression in melanocytes.

Actiwhite® (trend: power of nature)

The complex of sucrose dilaurate and pea extract works by decreasing tyrosinase activity. It reduces age spots and improves skin’s radiance. It evens and homogenizes the complexion.

 

ATOPIC PRONE SKIN

Castaline® (trend: microbiome pathway / power of nature)

The water extract of Castanea sativa leaves is ideal for very dry and atopic prone skin.

By influencing the physical, immune and bacterial barrier of skin it achieves calming and strengthening effects.

Peptovitae® Derma (trend: molecular peptides)

The Semaphorin-3A biomimetic peptide reduces mast cells degranulation, contributing to inflammation responses and itching. It is ideal to soothe skin.

 

Dermocosmetics – scientifically proven, medicine-oriented. highly effective, safe

Dermocosmetics upgrade cosmetics to an even higher state of targeted efficacy. They combine with medicine and incorporate latest trends of active ingredients. Science has proven the benefits of molecular peptides as well as the importance of the microbiome and keeps on finding innovative actives in nature.

Any questions? Cosmacon is ready to answer you.