Dry skin
In case of chronic skin diseases, like neurodermitis or psoriasis, dry skin flakes off, gets red spots, becomes cracks. While psoriasis skin renews its upper cells extremely rapidly, in case of atopic dermatitis (neurodermitis), skin becomes dry and chapped. The causes, probably, are chronic inflammations. They damage skin’s barrier.
Consequently, pathogens can more easily penetrate into skin and more water evaporates through skin so that skin dehydrates even more: a vicious circle is triggered. To restore and maintain skin’s protection function skin requires regular care with suitable products. The basic care with formulations short of active agents helps in slight cases of neurodermitis or psoriasis to become free of apparent symptoms and also is ideal for dry or very dry skin.
Research on neurodermitis skin shows that their skincare products should contain on few components. They should be rich, with minimal irritation potential and must be free of possibly harmful ingredients. Sun protection products must avoid potentially allergy-causing sun protection filters.
No potentially harmful substances in cleansing products
Acrylates, PEG/PEG derivatives, sulfate surfactants, polyquaternium damage skin’s barrier function and make it more permeable for foreign substances. Dry skin will become even drier; conditions of neurodermitis or psoriasis will aggravate.
Plant active ingredients for dry skin and basic care of skin suffering from neurodermitis or psoriasis
Subsequently, we describe some substances which could soothe dry skin and be suitable for the basic care of neurodermitis or psoriasis. However, persons concerned should first test them on a spot of their skin.
The ideal care for skin barrier is a formulation that supplies skin with the elements of its hydrolipidic film, that means, it provides lipids, long-lasting hydration, protection and anti-inflammatory effects.
EVENING PRIMROSE OIL
INCI: Oenothera Biennis Oil
CAS-Nr.: 90028-66-3
Found in: Europa, North America, New Zealand, parts of Asia
Extraction: cold pressing of seeds
Properties: fatty oil
Main ingredients: linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid
Effect: Evening Primrose Oil contains omega fatty acids which have shown excellent performance as accompanying care for neurodermitis. Ideal for dry skin, stimulates healing
LINSEED OIL
INCI: Linium Usitatissium Seed Oil
CAS-Nr.: 8001-26-1
Found: worldwide
Extraction: cold pressing of linseeds
Properties: yellow-golden, liquid, hay-like smell, nutty taste
Main ingredients: favorable omega 3/6 ratio: 5 times more omega 3 than omega 6
linolenic acid 56–71%, oleic acid 10–22%, linoleic acid 10–22%, palmitic-/stearic acid, tocopherol
Effect: takes advantage of the anti-inflammatory effect of omega fatty acids; for dry, flaky skin, neurodermitis, psoriasis, over-sensitive skin, ich-soothing
ALMOND OIL
INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
CAS-Nr.: 8007-69-0 / 90320-37-9
Found in: up to 80 percent in California: pay attention to bio-quality
Extraction: cold pressing of almond kernels
Properties: free of hydrocyanic acid, nearly odorless, pale-yellow oil, quickly turns rancid
Main ingredients: oleic acid 71% (sebum component), linoleic acid 19%, palmitic acid 5%, palmitoleic acid 0.7%, tocopherols
Effect: important as fundamental component of basic care products for neurodermitis and psoriasis, soft skin feeling, smoothing, lipid-replenishing, strengthens skin’s barrier, calms skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, ideal for dry, flaky skin, also suitable for baby care
ALOE VERA
INCI: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
CAS-Nr.: 85507-69-3 / 94349-62-9
Found in: The lily plants are desert plants growing in USA. Mexico, South and East Africa, Asia.
Properties: gel, leaf sap with pH 4.5
Main ingredients: mucopolysaccharides, amino acids, enzymes, vitamins
Effect: skin care benefits, moisturizing, moisture-binding, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, healing-stimulating, protecting, pain-alleviating, boosts skin regeneration, light UV shielding effect, soothes redness, irritation and impurities, for sensitive skin
LADY’S MANTLE
INCI: Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract
CAS-Nr.: 84695-94-3
Found in: Europe, West Asia, North America
Extraction: extract from the herb
Main ingredients: flavonoids, tannins, bitter substances
Effect: wound healing, anti-inflammatory, skin-astringent tannins, itch-soothing
CALENDULA
INCI: Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil
CAS-Nr.: 84776-23-8, 70892-20-5
Found in: Calendula or marigold is a medicinal plant wide-spread in Europe.
Extraction: extract from the flowers
Properties: pale yellow-red oil with aromatic taste
Main ingredients: carotenoids
Effect: wound healing, disinfectant, anti-inflammatory, calms skin, soothes itch, emollient, beneficial for dry, sensitive, chapped skin
COCO NUT OIL
INCI: Cocos Nucifera [Coco Nut] Oil
CAS-Nr.: 8001-31-8
Extraction: from pulp
Properties: yellow-white substance, quickly turns rancid
Main ingredients: many free fatty acids, like lauric, myristic, capric, linoleic, stearic acid
Effect: has proved to be effective for children with neurodermitis to soothe the symptoms and strengthen skin’s barrier; beneficial for dry skin
LINOLEIC ACID
INCI: Linoleic Acid
CAS: 60-33-3
Contained in: unsaturated fatty acid in plant oils (sunflower oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, safflower oil, hempseed oil, soy oil, wheat germ oil, evening primrose oil, linseed oil)
Properties: colorless, oily liquid, di-unsaturated essential fatty acid, counts among the omega-6 fatty acids
Effect: ideal for flaky, dry skin, for barrier and keratinization disorders, for neurodermatitis, psoriasis, anti-inflammatory
Linoleic acid is a component of ceramide I, an essential element of skin’s barrier, responsible for the regulation of water balance in the epidermis.
LINOLENIC ACID
INCI: Linolenic Acid
CAS: 463-40-1
Contained in: many plant oils (evening primrose oil, linseed oil) and fat fish
Properties: colorless, liquid, triple unsaturated essential fatty acid, counts among the
omega-3 fatty acids
Effect: anti-inflammatory, beneficial for dry, rough skin, neurodermitis, psoriasis
Help for dry skin and options for the basic care of neurodermitis or psoriasis
Active ingredients from the rainforest
Buriti oil, cupuaçu butter, murumuru butter, pequi oil may be beneficial sources.
Derivative of baker’s yeast
Two natural beta-glucan molecules from the cellular membrane of baker’s yeast could be ideal for repair and invigoration of skin’s barrier: sodium-carboxymethyl β-glucan and magnesium carboxymethyl β-glucan (trade names: CM-Glucan Granulate and CM-Glucan Forte by Mibelle Biochemistry). They could be options for dry skin and basic care for neurodermitis or psoriasis.
Inulin
from the roots of chicory (Cichorium intybus) in skincare has beneficial effects on skin flora and skin barrier, makes skin more resistant and increases hydration and therefore could be an option for extremely dry skin and neurodermitis/ psoriasis basic care.
Pricky pear (Opuntia ficus-indica): Its extracts are used for strengthening and equilibrating skin’s barrier and were tested on sensitive skin.
Skincare oil
Plant skincare oils offer real benefits, e.g., argan oil, pomegranate oil, macadamia oil, olive oil, soy oil, sunflower oil.
Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA): This omega-3 fatty acid is contained in rapeseed oil, hemp oil, linseed oil, walnut oil, chia oil, almond oil, avocado oil. It improves skin’s surface and is ideal for sensitive, flaky, dry skin and could be an option for neurodermitis or psoriasis.
Not to forget dexapanthenol, the so-called pro-vitamin B5, that is very gentle to skin and strengthens its barrier.
Urea and glycerin in basic care of neurodermitis or psoriasis, at best, could be used to moisturize and to soothe itch.
The right quantity
To achieve the desired effects, the sufficient quantity of cream has to be applied. For the different body areas, the following quantities are recommended. The unit of a fingertip (cream amount on the upper phalanx of the index finger) corresponds to 0.5 gram.
| age | face & neck | arm & hand | leg & foot | breast & abdomen | back & bottom |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3-6 months | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | 1 | 1.5 |
| 1-2 years | 1.5 | 1.5 | 2 | 2 | 3 |
| 3-5 years | 1.5 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3.5 |
| 6-10 years | 2 | 2.5 | 4.5 | 3.5 | 5 |
| adults | 2.5 | arm 3 / hand 1 | leg 6 / foot 2 | 7 | 7 |
| Source: | Apotheken Umschau, 8/2020 |
High skincare demands
Dry skin makes high demands on its care. It must supply special lipids for skin’s hydrolipidic film, it must be able to bind and to supply moisture, it strictly must avoid substances that could damage skin’s barrier. Skincare products suitable for dry skin should contain only few ingredients in order not to cause stress. The requirements apply even more for skin prone to neurodermitis or psoriasis that does accept a rich basic skincare, however, short in active agents and without irritants.