Dry skin as a patient

Dry skin as a patient, dry skin, itchy skin

Dry skin as a patient means  a chronic skin disease such as neurodermatitis or psoriasis, dry skin flakes, develops red patches and cracks. While the uppermost skin cells are renewed extremely quickly in psoriasis, the skin becomes dry and cracked in atopic dermatitis (neurodermatitis).
The causes are probably chronic inflammation. They damage the skin barrier. (see > Skin barrier)
As a result, germs can penetrate the skin more easily, more water is lost through the skin, the skin becomes drier; a vicious circle is set in motion.
In order to restore and maintain the protective function of the skin barrier, the skin must be regularly moisturised with suitable products.
 

This basic care with formulations low in active ingredients helps mild cases of neurodermatitis or psoriasis to become and remain symptom-free and is also ideal for dry skin or very dry skin. 
It is known from research on neurodermatitis skin that its care products should have few ingredients. They should be rich and non-irritating and must not contain any critical ingredients. When using sun protection, care should be taken to avoid sun protection filters that could potentially trigger allergies. (see children’s sun protection)
 

No critical substances in cleaning products

 

Acrylates, PEG/PEG derivatives, sulphate surfactants and polyquaternium damage the skin’s barrier function and make it more permeable to foreign substances. Dry skin becomes even drier; atopic dermatitis or psoriasis skin becomes worse. 

see > Polygylcerine cosmetics / see > Clean Beauty / see > Make-up removal / 
see > ABC Facial Cleansing

 


Plant-based active ingredients for dry skin and basic care for skin suffering from neurodermatitis and psoriasis

 

Below we present substances that soothe dry skin and may also be suitable for basic skin care for neurodermatitis or psoriasis. However, those affected should test them first.

A formulation that provides the skin with the elements of the hydrolipidic film, i.e. lipids and long-lasting hydration and protection and has an anti-inflammatory effect, is ideal for caring for dry skin as a patient:

NIGHT CANDLE OIL
INCI: Oenothera Biennis Oil
CAS No.: 90028-66-3
Occurrence: Europe, North America, New Zealand, partly in Asia
Extraction: Cold pressing of the seeds
Properties: fatty oil
Main constituents: Linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid
Effect: Evening primrose oil contains omega fatty acids, which have proven to be effective in the treatment of neurodermatitis. Ideal for dry skin, promotes healing

 

LINSEED OIL 
INCI: Linium Usitatissium Seed Oil
CAS
No.: 8001-26-1
Occurrence: worldwide
Extraction: Cold pressing of linseed
Properties: yellow-gold, liquid, hay-like odour, nutty taste
Main constituents. Favourable omega 3/6 ratio: 5 times more omega 3 than omega 6.
Linolenic acid 56-71%, oleic acid 10-22%, linoleic acid 10-22%, palmitic/stearic acid, tocopherol
Effect: utilises the anti-inflammatory effect of omega fatty acids, for dry, flaky skin, neurodermatitis, psoriasis, hypersensitive skin, soothes itching
 

 

ALMOND OIL
INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
CAS No.: 8007-69-0 / 90320-37-9
Occurrence: 80 per cent in California, pay attention to organic quality
Extraction: Cold pressing from almond seeds
Properties: hydrocyanic acid-free, almost odourless, light yellow oil, goes rancid quickly
Main components: Oleic acid 71% (component of sebum), linoleic acid 19%, palmitic acid 5%, palmitoleic acid 0.7%, tocopherols
Effect: plays an important role as the basis for basic care products for neurodermatitis and psoriasis, soft skin feel, smoothing, moisturising, strengthens the skin barrier, soothes the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, ideal for dry, flaky skin, also suitable for baby care 

 

ALOE VERA 
INCI: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
CAS
No.: 85507-69-3 / 94349-62-9
Occurrence: The lily plants are desert plants and grow in the USA, Mexico, South and East Africa, Asia
 
Extraction: by pressing the peeled inner leaf parts
 
Properties: Gel, leaf juice with a pH value of 4.5
Main constituents: Mucopolysaccharides, amino acids, enzymes, vitamins
Effect: nourishing, moisturises and binds moisture, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, promotes healing, protective, pain-relieving, promotes skin regeneration, slight UV protective effect, relieves redness, skin irritation, skin impurities, for sensitive skin
 

 

WOMEN’S MANTLE
INCI: Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract 
CAS No.: 84695-94-3
Occurrence: Europe, Western Asia, North America
Extraction: Extraction from the herb
Main constituents: Flavonoids, tannins, bitter substances
Effects: Wound healing, anti-inflammatory, tannins tighten the skin, relieve itching

 

MARIGOLD / CALENDULA
INCI: Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil
CAS No.: 84776-23-8, 70892-20-5
Occurrence: Calendula or marigold is a medicinal plant common in Europe and North Africa.
Extraction: Extract from the flowers
Properties: light yellow-red, aromatic tasting oil
Main constituents: Carotenoids
Effects: wound healing, disinfectant, anti-inflammatory, skin soothing, relieves itching, emollient, cares for dry skin, sensitive skin, chapped skin

 

COCONUT OIL
INCI: Cocos Nucifera [Coco Nut] Oil
CAS No.: 8001-31-8
Extraction: from the flesh of the fruit
Properties: yellowish-white mass, turns rancid quickly 
Main constituents: many free fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, capric, linoleic and stearic acid
Effect: has proven to be effective in children with neurodermatitis to alleviate the symptoms and improve the skin barrier function, for dry skin
 

 

LINOLIC ACID
INCI: Linoleic Acid
CAS No: 60-33-3
Occurrence: unsaturated fatty acid in vegetable oils (sunflower oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, soya oil, wheat germ oil, evening primrose oil, linseed oil)
Properties: colourless, oily liquid, double unsaturated essential fatty acid belongs to the omega-6 fatty acids.
Effect: ideal for flaky, dry skin, barrier and cornification disorders, for neurodermatitis sufferers, psoriasis, anti-inflammatory
Linoleic acid is a component of ceramide I, an essential component of the skin barrier, which is responsible for regulating the water balance in the epidermis.

 

LINOLENIC ACID
INCI: Linolenic Acid
CAS No: 463-40-1
Occurrence: in many vegetable oils (evening primrose oil, linseed oil) and fatty fish
Properties: colourless, liquid, triple unsaturated essential fatty acid belongs to the omega-3 fatty acids
Effect: anti-inflammatory, for dry, chapped skin, neurodermatitis, psoriasis
 

 

Help for dry skin and possible options for the basic care of neurodermatitis or psoriasis

 

Active ingredients from the rainforest

Buriti oil (see > Buriti), cupuaçu butter (see > Cupuaçu), murumuru butter (see > Murumuru), pequi oil (see > Pequi)

Derivatives of baker’s yeast

Two natural beta-glucan molecules from the cell wall of baker’s yeast, sodium carboxymethyl β-glucan and magnesium carboxymethyl β-glucan (trade names CM-Glucan Granulate and CM-Glucan Forte from Mibelle Biochemistry), are suitable for repairing and strengthening the resistance of the skin barrier and could therefore be options for dry skin and basic care for neurodermatitis and psoriasis. 
(see > Skin barrier, see > Anti-redness, > Skin resilience)
 

Inulin
from the roots of chicory (Cichorium intybus), has a positive effect on the skin flora and skin barrier in skin care, increases its resistance and moisture content and could therefore be an option for extremely dry skin or atopic dermatitis/psoriasis basic care. s > Skin barrier 

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica): Its extracts are used to strengthen and balance the skin barrier and have been tested on sensitive skin (see > Skin barrier)

Care oils
Vegetable skin care oils are also suitable, e.g. argan oil, pomegranate oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, soya oil, sunflower oil 
s. > Care oil

Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA): The omega-3 fatty acid, which is found in rapeseed oil, hemp oil, linseed oil, walnut oil, chia oil, almond oil and avocado, improves the skin’s surface and is ideal for sensitive skin, flaky, dry skin and may also be an option for neurodermatitis or psoriasis.
Dexapanthenol, the so-called provitamin B5, should also not be forgotten here, which is very kind to the skin and strengthens the skin barrier.
 
s. > What helps with
 

Urea and glycerine play a role in basic skin care products for neurodermatitis and psoriasis as moisturising factors and can relieve itching. 

The right amount for dry skin as a patient

 

In order to achieve the desired effects, a sufficient amount of cream must be applied. The following quantities should be used for the individual areas of the body. One fingertip unit (= strand of ointment on the front phalanx of the index finger) corresponds to 0.5 grams. 

 

High care requirements for dry skin as a patient


Dry skin places high demands on skin care. On the one hand, it must contain lipids that are suitable for the skin’s hydrolipidic film and have a moisturising and binding effect, while on the other hand it must consistently avoid substances that can attack the skin barrier. Your skincare products should only contain
few ingredients so as not to burden the skin unnecessarily. These requirements apply to an even greater extent to skin prone to neurodermatitis or psoriasis, which in mild cases can be treated well with a rich, low-ingredient and non-irritating basic care product. 
Cosmacon favours product formulations with minimal ingredients and is happy to help you with the – not always easy – search for suitable care substances for dry skin and the basic care of problematic skin.