Allergenic Fragrances

The current Cosmetics Regulation stipulates that allergenic fragrances in cosmetic products must be declared. Although not everyone automatically develops an allergy, the use of such substances harbours a risk of allergic reactions in a small number of people. The fragrance of a product plays a decisive role in its market success. Our sense of smell is of such fundamental importance that we can hardly escape its effect, and often we cannot explain why we love some fragrances and dislike others. Many cosmetic products are scented to convey a particular concept or brand message or to mask the inherent odour of the raw materials and active ingredients.

What problems can be caused by allergenic fragrances?

Some perfume components can cause irritation on contact with the skin, which can manifest itself in the form of redness, itching or rashes. In some cases, allergic reactions can also occur, such as eczema, which is triggered by a reaction of the immune system. If an allergy to a certain substance has developed, it remains for life and reoccurs on renewed contact with the allergen. The severity of the reaction depends on the person affected, the type of substance and the amount used, although even small amounts can be sufficient in the case of fragrances.

Some fragrance components do not initially cause allergic reactions. On the skin, however, they can be chemically modified by exposure to atmospheric oxygen, UV light or biochemical reactions in the body. These modified molecules can then trigger allergic reactions. It is therefore important to be careful when using scented products and to be aware of possible intolerances or allergic reactions.

Are allergenic fragrances known?

In the EU, 26 fragrances have been identified as potential allergens that must be declared in cosmetic products if they exceed a certain concentration. Since the first 26 allergenic fragrances were identified, it has been proven that other fragrances also trigger allergic reactions.

Deklarationspflichtige Duftstoffallergene

The allergy cases reported by dermatologists were systematically analysed and the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety identified a further 56 substances that were classified as “recognised contact allergens” for humans. With the already known 26 allergenic fragrances, the list now includes 82 fragrance substances (54 chemical fragrances and 28 natural extracts).

Duftstoffallergene

Fragrances are also used indoors to create a pleasant atmosphere or to persuade consumers to adopt a certain purchasing behaviour. The number of people affected in Germany is estimated at around 15-20 per cent, making fragrances the second most common trigger of contact allergies after nickel (15 per cent).

Cosmacon makes calculating cosmetic services very easy: after your enquiry, you will receive a complete overview of the maximum costs within 24 hours. Once we have signed a confidentiality agreement, we will make you a fixed price offer for your desired products.

Allergy test with fragrances

Two test mixtures are available to the dermatologist for the epicutaneous test: Fragrance Mix I and Fragrance Mix II. The most frequent positive reactions occur with isoeugenol and oakmoss. Since 2007, individual tests for the 26 allergenic fragrances requiring labelling can also be carried out in specific suspected cases. This makes it much easier to identify the trigger.

Avoiding allergenic fragrances

If you have tested positive for one or more allergenic fragrances, you should avoid them. However, this is only possible if the fragrance originates from the 26 fragrances that require labelling. The INCI labelling on the product packaging will tell you whether the specific fragrance is present or not. The Cosmetics Directive stipulates that “rinse-off products” (e.g. scrubs, shower gels, shampoos) containing more than 0.01% must be labelled. Products that remain on the skin (“leave-on”, e.g. lotions, make-up, sun gels, deodorants) must be labelled if they contain more than 0.001% fragrance allergen.

Possible extension of the list of fragrances subject to mandatory labelling

The field of analysis and declaration of allergenic fragrances in cosmetics is currently in a dynamic state. Certain fragrances in cosmetics are generally subject to declaration if they exceed a certain amount (10 ppm for products that remain on the skin and 100 ppm for products that are rinsed off). There are also bans on the use of certain fragrances in cosmetics. For example, products containing atranol, chloratranol or hydroxyisohexyl-3-cyclohexene carboxyaldehyde (lyral) may no longer be sold from 23 August 2021. A ban on the sale of the fragrance butylphenyl methylproprional (Lilial) also came into force from March 2022.

The Commission Regulation 2023/1545 provides for 56 new fragrance ingredients to be added to Annex III. The presence of these ingredients must be indicated on the label if they reach a concentration of 0.001% and 0.01% in leave-on and rinse-off products respectively. This would provide consumers with more certainty to avoid potentially allergenic fragrances. Some perfume houses have already started to offer a perfume briefing without the 82 allergenic fragrances, which makes it possible to limit the fragrance world but still offers many possibilities.

However, the safest way is to use fragrance-free (allergen-free) cosmetic products to avoid allergic reactions.

Focus on transparency: the declaration of allergenic fragrances in cosmetics

Perfumes are widely used in cosmetic products and can be a pleasant ingredient for many people. As long as there are no known allergies or skin sensitivities, perfumes can be used without hesitation. It is important that consumers who are known to be allergic to certain fragrances are vigilant and avoid products containing these allergens. The declaration of allergenic fragrances on product packaging helps to recognise and avoid potentially problematic ingredients. By being vigilant and choosing fragrance-free or allergen-free products when necessary, consumers can avoid allergic reactions and enjoy the benefits of cosmetics more safely. We are happy to advise you in this matter so that your product is as compatible as possible.

Sources:

Skin safety and health prevention: an overview of chemicals in cosmetic products.; Panico A, Serio F, Bagordo F, Grassi T, Idolo A, DE Giorgi M, Guido M, Congedo M, DE Donno A.J Prev Med Hyg. 2019 Mar 29;60(1):E50-E57. 

Allergic contact dermatitis caused by cosmetic products.; González-Muñoz P, Conde-Salazar L, Vañó-Galván S.Actas Dermosifiliogr. 2014 Nov;105(9):822-32.

Neue Studie zur erweiterten Kennzeichnung von Duftstoffen bei Kosmetika – BAV Institut Offenburg (bav-institut.de)