Ascorbyl glucoside
Ascorbyl glucoside is one of the most stable forms of vitamin C. It is also a very effective antioxidant that improves collagen synthesis and can contribute to the reduction of wrinkles. Once ascorbyl glucoside has penetrated the skin, it is metabolized into vitamin C.
Ascorbyl glucoside in cosmetics
As a powerful antioxidant, vitamin C is able to combat the signs of skin ageing and brighten the complexion. It has an inhibitory effect on UV-induced skin damage, can positively influence wound healing and inhibits the activity of MMP enzymes, which are normally responsible for collagen degradation. In its pure form, however, vitamin C is unfortunately very unstable in water, which makes its use for cosmetic applications problematic. It can also irritate the skin, especially in higher concentrations. Overcoming these obstacles was a real challenge for the cosmetics industry for some time. However, there is now a solution, namely the production of more stable and gentler derivatives of vitamin C. These act as a precursor and are converted into vitamin C in the skin. This is why ascorbyl glucoside is often used in cosmetic formulations. This derivative of vitamin C is water-soluble and therefore much more stable. It is also characterized by very good tolerability and a pleasantly light texture. Due to these advantages, ascorbyl glucoside is considered one of the best and most effective derivatives of vitamin C. It also has an impressive lightening effect. Age spots can be reduced and pigmentation spots such as freckles minimized with the appropriate products.
What exactly is ascorbyl glucoside?
Ascorbyl glucoside is made up of ascorbic acid and a glucose molecule. Both components are linked together by an ether bond. Ascorbyl glucoside is hydrophilic. In vivo studies have shown that hydrolysis into ascorbic acid and glucose is possible.
Even in aqueous solution and at relatively high temperatures, ascorbyl glucoside demonstrates excellent stability. This also applies with regard to metal ions. The active ingredient is also relatively stable to UV light. However, an increase in the pH value can lead to increasing instability. However, this also applies to all other derivatives of vitamin C. In summary, it can be said that ascorbyl glucoside is probably the best alternative to pure vitamin C. In combination with niacinamide (a derivative of vitamin B3), the effect is particularly effective. When the two ingredients are combined, they can help with skin problems such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as loss of firmness and elasticity. The combination of ascorbyl glucoside and niacinamide is also ideal for enlarged pores and an uneven complexion.
Ascorbyl glucoside profile
INCI: Ascorbyl Glucoside
CAS number: 129499-78-1
Description: Derivative of vitamin C
Appearance: an off-white to white powder
Molecular formula: C12H18O11
Melting point: 158 to 163 degrees Celsius
pH value: ~ 2.4
Usual application concentration: 0.1 to 2.0 percent
Effect: skin lightening, antioxidant (reduces the signs of aging), improves the synthesis of collagen
Ascorby glucoside as a highly effective and stable ingredient for innovative cosmetics
Ascorbyl glucoside is one of the most stable derivatives of vitamin C and an excellent antioxidant that also has brightening properties. It can neutralize skin-damaging free radicals, promote the formation of collagen and reduce skin discoloration. As it is a well-tolerated variant of vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside is suitable for virtually all skin types. Cosmacon will be happy to help you with the development and implementation.
Literature:
Comparative Studies on the Photoreactivity, Efficacy, and Safety of Depigmenting Agents.
Mota S, Rosa GP, Barreto MC, Garrido J, Sousa E, Cruz MT, Almeida IF, Quintas C.Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2023 Dec 28;17(1):55.