Azelaic acid as a skin lightener
Introduction
Azelaic acid as a skin lightener has become firmly established in the skin care industry. This active ingredient offers many advantages, especially for people with dark skin. In this blog post, we will look at the properties and advantages of azelaic acid as a skin lightener, its mechanism of action and the efficacy results from studies. We also present beneficial cosmetic products that contain azelaic acid.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid with the chemical formula C9H16O4. It is often obtained from cereals such as wheat, rye and barley and is known for its multifunctional skin care properties.
Physical-chemical properties
INCI name: azelaic acid
CAS number: 123-99-9
Appearance: white to off-white powder
Solubility: soluble in glycols, glycerol and alcohols, readily dispersible in polar esters
Purity: at least 99
Efficacy of azelaic acid as a skin lightener
Azelaic acid has been shown to be very effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. In a placebo-controlled clinical study with 52 women with dark or pigmented skin (phototypes IV to VI), the efficacy of a 20% azelaic acid cream was investigated over a period of 6 months. The results showed a significant lightening of the pigmentation spots and a reduction in the size of the lesions. The test subjects reported smoother skin and an overall improvement in the appearance of their skin.
Mechanism of action
Azelaic acid as skin lightener works through several mechanisms:
Inhibition of tyrosinase: Azelaic acid inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production. This leads to reduced melanin formation and thus to a lightening of the skin.
Melanosome reduction: Reduces the number of melanosomes (melanin-containing cell organelles) in the skin cells, which contributes to a more even skin colour.
Anti-inflammatory effect: Azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that help to reduce skin irritation and redness, which in turn improves the appearance of the skin.
Beneficial cosmetic products that use azelaic acid as a skin lightener
The following products with azelaic acid are particularly beneficial for skin lightening and the treatment of hyperpigmentation:
Lightening serums: Usually contain 10-20% azelaic acid and are suitable for the targeted treatment of dark spots and uneven skin tones.
Moisturising creams: combinations of azelaic acid and moisturising ingredients that hydrate the skin while lightening it.
Cleansing products: mild cleansing products with azelaic acid help to rid the skin of impurities while also having a lightening effect.
Conclusion
Azelaic acid as a skin lightener offers an effective solution for the treatment of hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Its multifunctional properties make it ideal for incorporation into various skin care products. Manufacturers can use products containing azelaic acid to address the specific needs of people with darker skin, while offering effective and gentle skin lightening. Cosmacon has extensive experience in formulating azelaic acid. Please feel free to contact us.
Literature:
Topical Treatments for Melasma and Their Mechanism of Action.
González-Molina V, Martí-Pineda A, González N.J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022 May;15(5):19-28.
Melasma and Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: Management Update and Expert Opinion.
Sofen B, Prado G, Emer J.Skin Therapy Lett. 2016 Jan;21(1):1-7.
Breathnach AS. 1996. Melanin hyperpigmentation of skin: melasma, topical treatment with azelaic acid, and other therapies. Cutis 57(Suppl 1): 36–45
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8654129/