Blackcurrant seed oil

The blackcurrant (Ribes nigra) belongs to the gooseberry family. Its fruits are rich in vitamins and are very popular in the kitchen, for example for summer fruit tarts, desserts and juices. The plant was originally native to Asian forest areas, but is now cultivated throughout Central Europe. The shrub, which can grow up to two metres tall, is an integral part of countless gardens in this country. Black berries, which are around one centimetre in diameter, grow in grape-like clusters and can be harvested from the end of June. As they are often ripe on St John’s Day (24 June), they were given the name “Johannisbeere” in German. Blackcurrant seed oil is produced by cold pressing or CO2 extraction from the seeds of the berries. It has a fruity, tart aroma and a beautiful yellow to slightly greenish colour. The flavour is pleasantly nutty.

The ingredients of blackcurrant seed oil

Blackcurrant seed oil is one of the most valuable seed oils of all, which is mainly due to the composition of the fatty acids. The proportion of unsaturated fatty acids is around 90 per cent. The oil not only contains plenty of alpha- and gamma-linolenic acid, but also the rare, 4-unsaturated stearidonic acid, which has only been sufficiently researched in recent years. It is considered to be extremely anti-inflammatory. The two linolenic acids are also characterised by their highly effective stabilising function for the barrier layer of our skin. They therefore maintain the skin’s own moisture, which is particularly beneficial for mature and dry skin. Incidentally, the proportion of alpha- and gamma-linolenic acid in this oil is around three times higher than in black cumin oil.

Blackcurrant seed oil is also rich in vitamin E and cell-protecting flavonoids.

Blackcurrant seed oil in herbal medicine

Among other things, blackcurrant seed oil is recommended as an adjuvant aftercare for cancer therapies, as the gamma-linolenic acid it contains is not only an extremely effective free radical scavenger, but also has a protective function against carcinogenic substances. Gamma-linolenic acid is also able to sustainably correct an abnormal fat metabolism (e.g. in the case of obesity). As a dietary supplement, the oil has a positive effect on the cardiovascular system and lipid metabolism.

The effect of blackcurrant actives in cosmetics

Blackcurrant seed oil is generally very well tolerated and extremely mild. Thanks to its polyunsaturated fatty acids, it has a cell-regenerating and cell-protecting effect, slows down the skin ageing process and stimulates the skin’s metabolism. Due to these properties, blackcurrant seed oil is often used in high-quality facial oils and anti-ageing products, for example. But that’s not all. Thanks to its high stearidonic acid content, it is also excellent for blemished skin, skin prone to spots and acne and inflammatory skin conditions. Even particularly sensitive skin is effectively soothed by the anti-inflammatory properties of blackcurrant seed oil. Blackcurrant seed oil can be just as helpful for skin irritations as it is for eczema. The bioactive substances (flavonoids) it also contains also help to improve resistance to allergies or infections.

As the oil has a naturally low oxidative stability, it works best in combination with other high-quality oils, such as jojoba or marula oil. It is also frequently used as a healing component in products containing shea butter.

Profile of blackcurrant seed oil

INCI: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil

CAS number: 97676-19-2

Composition: Linoleic acid (up to a maximum of 54.0 per cent), alpha-linolenic acid (8.0 to 18.0 per cent), gamma-linolenic acid (13.0 to 16.0 per cent), stearidonic acid (2.0 to 4.0 per cent)

Iodine value: 160 to 175

Usual use concentration: 1.0 to 5.0 per cent, in oil mixtures 10.0 to a maximum of 15.0 per cent

Spreading property: slow

Areas of application: for dry, mature, sensitive and blemished skin

Profile of blackcurrant leaf extract

INCI: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Leaf Extract

Definition: Extract from the leaves of blackcurrant

Effect: helpful for dry and demanding skin

Profile of blackcurrant fruit extract

INCI: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract

CAS number: 68606-81-5

EINECS number: 271-749-0

Properties: red-brown powder

We like to work with these active ingredients from blackcurrant seed oil:

Integrate blackcurrant seed oil into high-quality formulations

Thanks to its properties and ingredients, the oil is suitable for dry and mature skin as well as for impure and highly sensitive skin. It is very mild and generally well tolerated. Cosmacon will be happy to support you in the realisation of high-quality formulations with blackcurrant seed oil. Just get in touch with us.

Literature:

Ribes nigrum Leaf Extract Preferentially Inhibits IFN-γ-Mediated Inflammation in HaCaT Keratinocytes.

Magnavacca A, Piazza S, Cammisa A, Fumagalli M, Martinelli G, Giavarini F, Sangiovanni E, Dell’Agli M.Molecules. 2021 May 20;26(10):3044

Extract from Ribes nigrum leaves in vitro activates nitric oxide synthase (eNOS) and increases CD39 expression in human endothelial cells.

Luzak B, Boncler M, Rywaniak J, Dudzinska D, Rozalski M, Krajewska U, Balcerczak E, Podsedek A, Redzynia M, Watala C.J Physiol Biochem. 2014 Dec;70(4):1007-19

Assessment of cytotoxicity and antioxidant properties of berry leaves as by-products with potential application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

Ziemlewska A, Zagórska-Dziok M, Nizioł-Łukaszewska Z.Sci Rep. 2021 Feb 5;11(1):3240