Care oil
Nourishing oils provide the skin with valuable nutrients such as fatty acids, antioxidants and secondary plant substances. They can be a natural alternative to body lotion or face cream and have the advantage over these products that they do not require emulsifiers. Another advantage is that skincare oils do not contain any preservatives due to their water-free nature. Added to this is the coverage of the care oil. As the care oil is easy to spread and feels pleasant on the skin, it does not contain any silicones.
When it comes to fragrances in skincare oils, it is important to pay attention to whether the list of ingredients contains any allergenic substances. Products that contain geraniol, eugenol, citral, citronellol, coumarin, farnesol or cinnamyl alcohol, for example, can then be avoided, as can products with the synthetic lily of the valley fragrance Lilial.
The price differences in the care oils can be explained by the fact that the raw materials have different prices. Organic argan oil, for example, is more expensive at around 25 euros per kilo than soybean oil at around three euros and cheaper than a kilo of sea buckthorn oil at around 160 euros.
Synthetic oil substances such as caprylic/capric triglycerides are cheaper than natural, pure oils.
If an organic, pure, rare or complex to extract oil makes up the largest proportion in a care oil and therefore justifies the price, it is at the top of the list of ingredients. This list is prescribed in descending order of proportion.
If a higher quality oil, such as jojoba oil or almond oil, is at the top of the list, it may be the base oil. Followed by sunflower oil in second place, the more valuable oil can also be blended with the cheaper oil.
However, this list is usually headed by an inexpensive base oil such as sunflower oil, olive oil or soybean oil or caprylic/capric triglycerides, which are also permitted in natural cosmetics. However, there are also semi-synthetic fats based on petroleum, such as isopropyl palmitate or ethylhexyl stearate. These are particularly inexpensive, spread well, but have the disadvantage of lying on the skin, not integrating into the skin barrier, i.e. not supporting the effect of the care oil or having caring properties themselves.
Without preservatives
As an anhydrous product, care oil does not require any preservatives. Critical substances such as organohalogen compounds are not found here, nor are PEG/PEG derivatives, as care oil does not require an emulsifier.
DIY – Mix care oil yourself
Nourishing oils can be added to your day or body cream. Place the cream dose for application in the palm of your hand and add a few drops of oil. In this way, the cream is enriched with valuable care substances and its consistency becomes even smoother.
Care oils can also be mixed together.
It makes sense to consider the fatty acid profile of the individual oils in order to obtain synergistic combinations.
Macadamia nut oil with a low linoleic acid content can be combined well with evening primrose oil or sunflower oil, which contain a lot of linoleic acid.
Jojoba oil works well as a high-quality base oil and stabilizes other oils, which is why it goes well with almond oil. As it contains no linoleic or linolenic acid, it complements oils that are rich in these oil components perfectly.
Pomegranate oil contains the rare punicic acid and can complement other oils well with this antioxidant.
Conditioning oils are also ideal for hair care. Apply a few drops to damp hair or the ends of your hair.
The natural emulsion formation can be supported by massaging the care oil into the still damp skin after bathing or showering; this creates a water-in-oil emulsion that is easily absorbed by the skin. This procedure is particularly recommended for dehydrated skin.
Profile of some oils in skin and body care oils
ARGAN OIL
INCI name: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
CAS No.: 223747-87-3
Occurrence: in the south of Morocco
Extraction: Cold pressing of the kernels
Properties: yellow-orange, liquid, nutty flavor
Main constituents: Oleic acid 38-48%, linoleic acid 30-40%, palmitic/stearic acid 15-23%, tocopherols, phytosterols, squalane
Effect: moisturizing, anti-aging, soothes dry, inflamed skin
Contains valuable oils for the skin: oleic acid = free fatty acid in the sebum; linoleic acid = reduces transepidermal water loss; palmitic acid = in the lipid layer of the skin; stearic acid = moisture-retaining, film-forming; tocopherol = antioxidant, protects the cell membrane, improves skin moisture; phytosterols = in the lipid film of the skin; squalane = in the sebum
POMEGRANATE OIL
INCI: Punica Granatum Seed Oi
CAS No.: 84961-57-9
Occurrence: The pomegranate shrub or tree, which belongs to the myrtle family, grows in the Mediterranean region.
Extraction: Squeezing the seeds
Main constituents: 60 % punicic acid, palmitic, oleic, linoleic, stearic acid, phytoestrogens
Effect: antioxidant, astringent, promotes skin regeneration, strengthens the skin barrier, has a soothing effect, ideal for dry and chapped skin, makes the skin supple, prevents inflammation. The triple unsaturated punicic acid is an omega-5 fatty acid. It has a strong antioxidant effect.
JOJOBA OIL
INCI: Simnondsia Chinensis Seed Oil / Buxus Chinensis Seed Oil
CAS No.: 61789-91-1
Properties: liquid wax, vegetable lipid, hardly any greasy shine on the skin, is also used as a high-quality, expensive base oil, light yellow, odorless, highly resistant to oxidation, does not become rancid
Extraction: from the seeds of the jojoba bush, cold pressing
Main ingredients: Lipids, waxes, gadololic acid 70%, erucic acid 15%, oleic acid 10%, palmitic acid 1%, nervonic acid 2%, provitamin A, vitamin E
Effect: makes the skin supple and soft, penetrates well into the skin, non-greasy, provides long-lasting protection against water loss, protects against UV rays, antioxidant
Gadoleic acid is an omega-9 fatty acid, supports skin regeneration, has a moisturizing and soothing effect; also found in hemp oil
ALMOND OIL
INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
CAS No.: 8007-69-0 / 90320-37-9
Occurrence: 80 percent in California, pay attention to organic quality
Extraction: Cold pressing from almond seeds
Properties: hydrocyanic acid-free, almost odorless, light yellow oil, goes rancid quickly
Main ingredients: Oleic acid 71% (component of sebum), linoleic acid 19%, palmitic acid 5%, palmitoleic acid 0.7%, tocopherols
Effect: soft skin feel, smoothing, moisturizing, strengthens the skin barrier, soothes the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, ideal for dry, flaky skin, suitable for babies and as a massage oil
MACADAMIA NUT OIL
INCI: Macadamia Ternifolia Seed OIl
CAS No.: 128497-20-1 / 129811-19-4
Occurrence: Macadamia ternifolia is mainly found in Australia.
Extraction: Cold pressing from the macadamia nut
Properties: light yellow oil, non-greasy oil, pleasant, mildly nutty taste, long shelf life
Main constituents: Oleic acid 54-68%, palmitoleic acid 16-23%, palmitic acid 7-10%, stearic acid 2-5.5%, arachidic acid 1.5-2%, linoleic acid 1-3%, vitamin A, tocopherols, minerals, similarity to skin sebum
Effect: spreads well on the skin, absorbs quickly, nourishes and smoothes the skin, makes it supple, particularly suitable for dry, flaky skin, suitable as a massage oil
Base oils for Care oil
OLIVE OIL
INCI: Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
CAS No.: 8001-25-0
Extraction: Cold pressing from the stone fruits
Properties: fatty, yellow to greenish-yellow oil, turns rancid quickly
Main ingredients: Oleic acid 78%, palmitic acid 11%, linoleic acid 5-6%, palmitoleic acid 1%, squalane 2%, tocopherols, phenols
Effect: skin-smoothing, moisturizing, ideal for dry, cracked skin, relieves itching, good massage oil
SOY OIL
INCI: Glycine Max.Oil
CAS No.: 8001-22-7
Occurrence: The herb is native to Southeast Asia. It belongs to the papilionaceous family. Glycine Max is the name for the cultivated plant, while Glycine Soja refers to the wild form.
Extraction: by squeezing or extraction with solvents
Main ingredients: Linoleic acid 50%, oleic acid 25%, palmitic acid 11%, α-linolenic acid 6%, stearic acid 5%, lecithin 1.8 – 3.2%. Tocopherols, phytosterols
Effect: smoothing, moisturizing, moisturizing, soothes and tightens the skin, anti-aging effect, good oil base
Linoleic acid is an unsaturated essential fatty acid. It reduces water loss from the skin and protects against skin dryness and irritation.
SUNFLOWER OIL
INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
CAS No.: 8001-21-6
Properties: light, pale yellow oil. Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil comes from a sunflower cultivar with a modified fatty acid pattern.
Extraction; by pressing the sunflower seeds
Main ingredients: Linoleic acid 58-64%, oleic acid 24-30%, palmitic acid 6%, stearic acid 4%, tocopherols, phytosterols, lecithin
Effect: moisturizing, smoothing, strengthens the skin barrier, for normal to oily skin
Linoleic acid is an unsaturated essential fatty acid. It reduces water loss from the skin and protects against skin dryness and irritation.
Base oil body
Esterification product of glycerol and capric/caprylic acid
INCI: CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC-TRIGLYCERIDE
CAS No.: 73398-61-5 / 65381-09-1
Properties: medium-chain fatty acid, also known as neutral oil, good shelf life
Extraction: Fatty acid esters, from purified fatty acids of coconut oil
Effect: moisturizing, makes the skin supple, absorbs without greasy shine, well tolerated by the skin, easy to spread, alternative to silicone oil and mineral oil
Care oil for skin care without critical substances
A major advantage of skincare with oils is that they do not contain any preservatives or emulsifiers. This is an aspect that is increasingly important to more and more consumers. Added to this are the special sensory properties of an oil when applied to the skin. Cosmacon will be happy to help you select pure oils for your skincare range and produce interesting skincare oils.Cosmacon will be happy to help you select pure oils for your skincare range and produce interesting skincare oils.
Literature:
Alqurashi AS, Al Masoudi LM, Hamdi H, Abu Zaid A.Molecules. 2022 Aug 25;27(17):5453
rgan Oil: Chemical Composition, Extraction Process, and Quality Control.
Gharby S, Charrouf Z.Front Nutr. 2022 Feb 3;8:804587.
Wei P, Zhao F, Wang Z, Wang Q, Chai X, Hou G, Meng Q.Nutrients. 2022 Sep 30;14(19):4079.