Cholesterol

Cholesterol is a lipid found in the cell membranes of our body tissues and also in the blood plasma of all animal organisms. It is found in particularly high concentrations in the liver, spinal cord and brain. In addition, cholesterol is found in the stratum corneum: This refers to the outer layer of the epidermis, the horny layer. The stratum corneum consists of dead, keratinized cells that flake off at the surface and are called corneocytes. They are embedded in a lipid layer formed by fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol and other substances. Cholersteryl alcohol plays a central role in many biochemical processes. It is needed to build and maintain new cell membranes, is the main precursor for the synthesis of vitamin D, and is also an aid in the production of bile.

Component of our natural skin barrier

Cholesterol is an important component of the so-called permeability barrier of our skin. In order for this barrier to function optimally at all times, a balance of the lipid classes mainly involved, which include free fatty acids and sphingolipids as well as cholest-5-en-3β-ol, is extremely important. It is essential for the barrier function of the skin in the extracellular lipid matrix.  The main components of this layer are cholesterol and cholesterol derivatives in their lamellar structure. Cholersteryl alcohol and its derivatives, such as cholesterol sulfate, cholesterol succinate or potassium cholesterol sulfate, make up about one third of these lipids. They are essential for proper skin barrier function, including formation of the lamellar structure and controlled permeability.

Recovery

Cholesterol can also be obtained outside our body, namely from wool grease, which is a by-product of wool washing. The wool fat is first subjected to alkaline hydrolysis, after which the lanolin alcohol fraction must be separated before the cholersteryl alcohol can be extracted. So if you want to care for your skin in a natural way, you turn to products with wool wax (lanolin), which also contain cholest-5-en-3β-ol. Wool wax is obtained when washing the wool immediately after shearing the sheep and is a secretion from the animals’ valley glands. It is a very high-quality and well-tolerated skin care product, as it does not clog the sebaceous glands and works deep down. Creams and ointments with lanolin are now even used for wound healing and sun-stressed skin.

Fact Sheet Cholersteryl alcohol

INCI: Cholesterol

Alternative names: Cholesten-3ß-ol, Cholest-5-en-3β-ol, Cholersteryl alcohol

CAS number: 57-88-5

Nature: almost odorless, white powder

Solubility: practically insoluble in water

Disadvantages of cholesterol

Conventionally, cholersteryl alcohol is obtained mainly from the lanolin of sheep’s wool, from which it is extracted with solvents. This process has the disadvantage that the cholesterol obtained in this way may be contaminated with pesticide residues and cause undesirable reactions. Today, many consumers therefore prefer vegetable lipids that are highly pure and stable. In addition, conventional cholesterol is often poorly soluble and difficult to process.

Modern cholesterol cosmetics take this fact and the increasing demand for non-animal ingredients in cosmetics into account.

Cholesterol in cosmetics

Cholersteryl alcohol plays a very important role in cosmetics. Lanolin, the international common name for wool wax, is particularly worth mentioning in this context. Lanolin consists of a mixture of mainly long-chain esters, di-esters and hydroxy esters. During their hydrolysis, cholesterol is also isolated. In pharmaceutical skin ointments, lanolin is a common component of W/O emulsions. The cholersteryl alcohol it contains has excellent skin-protective properties and is an effective component of the natural skin barrier. Lanolin with cholesterol is very well tolerated by the skin. Thanks to the generally high quality standards that prevail today, contamination of the wool wax (for example, by pesticides) can be virtually ruled out. Incompatibilities or allergic reactions are therefore extremely rare.

Vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol) is also very important for our well-being. It is formed from a precursor of 7-Dehydrocholesterin. 7-Dehydrocholesterin is found in several layers of the epidermis and is converted into the vital vitamin D3 with the help of UVB light. The less our skin is exposed to sunlight (for example, in the dark season) and the more sunscreens are used, the more important it is to absorb vitamin D3 through food. Fatty fish species such as herring, salmon and mackerel are particularly important suppliers in this context.

Structurally related to cholersteryl alcohol are the plant sterols (phytosterols). They can excellently replace the animal cholesterol in skin creams. Avocado oil with its excellent skin care properties is a particularly interesting example of this; the phytosterols are abundant in this oil. Lanosterol, also known as lanosterol, is also formed as an intermediate product in the biosynthesis of cholest-5-en-3β-ol. This naturally occurring chemical compound is also a component of wool wax. The substance has emulsifying properties in creams and can absorb up to 300% water.

Cholesterol is ideal for the production of your cosmetics. With Cosmacon you are closely involved in the development of your product, so this will surely be the successful start to build your own brand.

New developments

With PhytoChol® Technology, Evonik obtains plant sterols for the skin.

They are characterized by high purity. The semi-synthetic technology extracts skin-identical molecules from plant-based starting materials. The starting materials for the pure, harmless cholesterols are sustainable, GMO-free pine products.

They have better solubility and improved penetration capacity.

We are happy to work with these cholersteryl alcohol -containing raw materials:

Cholesterol in modern cosmetics

Cosmacon implements the exciting developments in modern cholesterol cosmetics in your formulations, whether creams, lotions, sunscreens or men’s cosmetics. The new Cholersteryl alcoholmolecules are highly pure and stable and play an important role in several important trends in the cosmetics market. We look forward to receiving your inquiry and invite you to contact us today without obligation.

Sources:

Effect of Ceramide Tail Length on the Structure of Model Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers. Moore TC, Hartkamp R, Iacovella CR, Bunge AL, McCabe C.Biophys J. 2018 Jan 9;114(1):113-12

Enhancement of stratum corneum lipid structure improves skin barrier function and protects against irritation in adults with dry, eczema-prone skin. Danby SG, Andrew PV, Kay LJ, Pinnock A, Chittock J, Brown K, Williams SF, Cork MJ.Br J Dermatol. 2022 May;186(5):875-886

Cholesterol sulfate fluidizes the sterol fraction of the stratum corneum lipid phase and increases its permeability.; Fandrei F, Engberg O, Opálka L, Jančálková P, Pullmannová P, Steinhart M, Kováčik A, Vávrová K, Huster D.J Lipid Res. 2022 Mar;63(3):100177