In the cold season, we like to put on warming layers of down jackets, functional shoes and thermal gloves to brave the icy cold. While we make ourselves comfortable on the cosy sofa in heated rooms and turn up the heating, our faithful companions – our skin – experience a clear contrast, and not always in a positive way. The winter weather and the frequent change between frosty outside temperatures and dry heated air put our skin under strain and it is confronted with a variety of stress factors. This alternation between extreme cold and artificial heat can be a real strain on the skin, which is why it is important to consciously address the needs of cold-stressed skin.

Winter magic, cold-stressed skin: How cold and heating air stress the skin

Our skin is really stressed by the extreme temperature differences in winter. The dry heating air draws moisture from the skin, which leads to sensitivity and roughness. At the same time, the skin reacts to the low humidity by transporting more moisture to the surface, which in turn contributes to further dehydration. Humidity is also often very low outdoors, which additionally favours the drying out of the skin. The cold outside temperatures cause the blood vessels under the skin to contract in order to retain heat inside the body. This leads to a reduced blood supply, which means that the skin is supplied with less oxygen and nutrients. The challenges for the skin in winter are therefore manifold and require special care.

Effects of cold and wind

The effects of cold and wind on the skin are complex and go beyond the mere effect of low temperatures. At temperatures below eight degrees Celsius, not only does the sebum production of the sebaceous glands cease, which is already reduced. The protective oily film that is normally on the skin is then missing, causing the skin to dry out even faster.

The winter wind adds to this challenge by cooling the skin down considerably. The perceived temperature is often far below the measured values (see also “wind chill”). For example, a measured temperature of -5°C at a wind speed of 30 km/h corresponds to a perceived temperature of -13°C! This cold can cause water from fog, snowflakes or raindrops to freeze on the skin, which further increases the strain on the skin. The combined effect of cold and wind therefore requires targeted skin care to counteract the negative effects.

Winter skin at a glance: Recognisable signs and care for cold-stressed skin

Cold-stressed skin manifests itself through a series of characteristic symptoms that can be attributed to the adverse effects of low temperatures and winter conditions. Typical signs of cold-stressed skin are

The skin feels dry and may lose moisture. Its surface appears rougher and more uneven as the natural moisture barrier is disrupted by the cold. There is a noticeable feeling of tightness due to the reduced elasticity of the skin. Redness can occur as the cold can temporarily constrict the blood vessels. Scaly patches are common as the skin barrier is weakened and there is an increased loss of moisture. Accompanying itching is a common symptom resulting from dry and stressed skin. Inflammation can occur, especially on already weakened or sensitive skin. Windburn, caused by the combination of cold and wind, places additional stress on the skin. Cracks, especially on the hands and exposed areas, are possible as the skin becomes more susceptible to cracking in the cold.

Proper skin care is crucial to minimise the effects of cold stress and maintain skin health. Moisturising products and an adapted skincare routine are essential.

The right care for our cold-stressed skin

During the cold season, it is particularly important to choose skincare products that meet the specific needs of our skin. Products with a water/oil emulsion, in which lipids form the outer phase, are recommended. The main task of day care is to restore the hydrolipid film.  These immediately protect cold-stressed skin from drying out and are therefore particularly effective in winter.

Effective ingredients for cold-stressed skin:

1. allantoin: accelerates skin regeneration, has an anti-inflammatory effect and is particularly suitable for very dry skin, without allergic or toxic side effects.
2. ceramides: The body’s own lipids, protect against moisture loss and skin irritation.
3. squalane: Obtained from the olive plant, protects the skin from moisture loss, similar to the body’s own skin fat.
4. shea butter: Obtained from the nuts of the shea butter tree, softens and moisturises the skin.
5. aloe vera: Rich in nutrients, has anti-inflammatory, balancing and soothing properties, moisturises and penetrates deep into the skin.
6. bisabolol: Anti-inflammatory, suitable for dry, sensitive and irritation-prone skin, extracted from the essential oil of camomile.
7. hyaluronic acid: Binds water in the tissue, makes the skin look plump and is often used in facial care products.
8. cocoa butter: Easily spreadable, leaves the skin feeling soft and moisturised.
9. vitamin E: Known as a cell protection vitamin, protects against free radicals, strengthens the skin’s defences, prevents premature skin ageing.

These ingredients provide targeted care for different skin needs, from moisturising to skin regeneration.

Another key to optimal skin care in the cold is a high proportion of skin moisturisers, which replenish the skin’s moisture reservoir. A high sun protection factor (SPF) is essential, especially for winter sports enthusiasts such as skiing. The sun’s rays are more intense in snowy regions, as the white snow reflects practically 100% of UV radiation. This leads to a total exposure of almost 200% UV radiation, so effective sun protection is of great importance.

The delicate skin of the lips also needs special attention. A gentle lip scrub removes dead skin cells from the lips, while water-free lipsticks create a protective greasy film over the lips in winter. When choosing care products, look out for ingredients that intensively nourish and protect cold-stressed skin.

Winter skincare: Targeted ingredients for protection and regeneration

Winter skin requires special care to counteract the challenges of cold and dry air. Symptoms such as dryness, roughness and itching are signs of stressed skin. Care products with allantoin, aloe vera, ceramides, squalane and shea butter offer targeted moisturisation, protection and regeneration. A customised skincare routine with these ingredients strengthens the natural skin barrier and protects the skin from moisture loss to keep it healthy and supple through the winter. If you would like to develop an exclusive product line for winter skincare, please contact us!

Sources:

Natural Film Based on Pectin and Allantoin for Wound Healing: Obtaining, Characterization, and Rat Model.; Valle KZM, Saucedo Acuña RA, Ríos Arana JV, Lobo N, Rodriguez C, Cuevas-Gonzalez JC, Tovar-Carrillo KL. Biomed Res Int. 2020 Oct 17;2020:6897497.

A daily regimen of a ceramide-dominant moisturizing cream and cleanser restores the skin permeability barrier in adults with moderate eczema: A randomized trial.; Spada F, Harrison IP, Barnes TM, Greive KA, Daniels D, Townley JP, Mostafa N, Fong AT, Tong PL, Shumack S.Dermatol Ther. 2021 Jul;34(4):e14970.

Skin lipids in health and disease: A review.; Knox S, O’Boyle NM.Chem Phys Lipids. 2021 May;236:105055.

Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function-improving capabilities of ceramide-containing formulations: A qualitative review.; Kono T, Miyachi Y, Kawashima M.J Dermatol. 2021 Dec;48(12):1807-1816

Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies.; Poljšak N, Kočevar Glavač N.Front Pharmacol. 2022 Apr 25;13:868461

Health Benefits, Pharmacological Effects, Molecular Mechanisms, and Therapeutic Potential of α-Bisabolol.; Eddin LB, Jha NK, Goyal SN, Agrawal YO, Subramanya SB, Bastaki SMA, Ojha S.Nutrients. 2022 Mar 25;14(7):1370