Crambe oil

Crambe, also known as Abyssinian sea kale, is a plant from the cruciferous family. It originally comes from the highlands of Abyssinia (Ethiopia), but has now spread as far as Turkey. It is characterised by its white flowers, which are only a few millimetres in size and form loose clusters. However, only the seeds of the plant are needed to obtain crambe oil by cold pressing. They are yellowish brown to grey-green in colour and around 1.5 to 3.0 millimetres in size. The average oil content of the seeds is around 40 to 50 per cent. Once the seeds are ripe, the plant dies, which means it is an annual. Its vegetation period is about 90 to 110 days.

In industry, crambe oil has long been recognised as a valuable renewable raw material. It is used for the production of detergents, but also for the production of technical oils, waxes and anti-foaming agents. Pet owners may already be familiar with it as a gentle product for grooming. The fact that it is now also playing an increasingly important role in cosmetics is due to its extremely valuable ingredients.

These substances are found in crambe oil

No other plant oil is richer in erucic acid: it makes up around 55 to 62 per cent of the oil of the crambe plant. Erucic acid is a long-chain, monounsaturated fatty acid that gives the oil high oxidative stability and excellent cosmetic properties. At 15 to 18 per cent, the proportion of oleic acid is also quite high, while other ingredients include linoleic acid (eight to ten per cent) and linolenic acid (six to seven per cent).

Crambe oil in hair care

The pale yellow and almost odourless oil is mainly used in hair care. It brings a beautiful shine and a lot of suppleness to the hair without weighing it down or making it greasy quickly. When styling hair after shampooing, it makes it easier to comb (without “tugging”) and protects against hair breakage. Crambe oil gives curly hair movement and bounce, so that it not only feels healthier and softer, but also looks much more vibrant. The effect is primarily due to erucic acid. As a completely natural ingredient, it is said to have a similar positive effect on the hair as shampoos and conditioners containing silicone, which have been justifiably criticised. Crambe oil helps to strengthen protective cell layers and retain moisture. After all, the cell layers act as immensely important barriers that specifically protect the hair from drying out on the one hand, but also from the penetration of environmental influences and pollutants on the other. However, as more and more warnings are being issued against silicone-based products for conditioning and smoothing these layers due to various side effects, gentle hair care products with crambe oil, which have the same effect but are considered harmless, will play an even greater role in the future.

Crambe oil in skin care

Crambe oil also demonstrates its many positive properties in skin care. The unsaturated fatty acids make the skin feel soft and smooth, and the skin becomes significantly smoother and firmer with regular use. The signs of skin ageing are minimised and the formation of wrinkles is prevented. This makes crambe oil ideal for the care of mature skin that has already lost its elasticity. Another major plus point is that the oil is absorbed very quickly, making it ideal for daily skincare routines.

In addition, crambe oil makes a special contribution to the regeneration of hands and feet. When integrated into a moisturising foot and hand cream, it can unfold its full effect and even visibly improve the condition of the nails.

It is also a very good choice for bath additives. It deeply moisturises the skin while bathing, leaving it feeling soft and silky smooth. This is why crambe oil is also very suitable for moisturising lotions that are applied or massaged in after showering or bathing. Although the oil does not have a “built-in” UV filter, it can help to soothe irritated skin after sunburn.

Crambe oil in make-up

Lipsticks and lip glosses with crambe oil moisturise sensitive lip skin. It is also suitable for foundations as it moisturises but does not clog the pores. It also does not leave a greasy film. When applied “pure”, the oil sets make-up or serves as a make-up base.

Crambe oil profile

INCI: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

Iodine value: 90 to 105

Appearance: pale yellow

Fragrance: mild to odourless

Most important ingredients: erucic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid

Effect: moisturising, firming, smoothing, restorative, soothing

Erucic acid profile

CAS number: 112-86-7

Description: white crystalline solid

Solubility: soluble in numerous organic solvents, but almost insoluble in water

Best-known application: Lorenzo’s oil, a mixture of erucic acid and glycerol esters of oleic acid, which can suppress the symptoms of ALD (adrenoleukodystrophy/hereditary disorder of fatty acid metabolism).

We like to work with these raw materials, which are based on crambe oil:

Multi-talented crambe oil

Crambe oil helps to strengthen the skin’s natural hydrolipid mantle, prevents water loss and gives hair suppleness, shine and a healthy appearance. It is very well tolerated and non-irritating. As the cultivation of the plant, which thrives even in dry seasons, also guarantees local farmers secure harvests, everything speaks in favour of using crambe oil in cosmetics. Cosmacon specializes in developing smart and innovative products using crumb oil. Call us.

Sources:

Designing Lubricating Properties of Vegetable Base Oils.

Iłowska J, Chrobak J, Grabowski R, Szmatoła M, Woch J, Szwach I, Drabik J, Trzos M, Kozdrach R, Wrona M.Molecules. 2018 Aug 14;23(8):2025

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