Fermented Ingredients

Fermentation in biotechnology involves the purposeful enzymatic or microbial conversion of organic substances. This conversion is achieved by introducing enzymes (ferments) or biological cell cultures such as fungi, bacteria, or other microorganisms. These specially selected natural microorganisms have the remarkable ability to produce valuable nutrients that are either extremely challenging or impossible to synthesize chemically. Fermentation can occur with or without the presence of oxygen, known respectively as aerobic or anaerobic fermentation. We frequently encounter fermentation in various aspects of our daily lives, including the availability of fermented foods and active ingredients in the market.

Fermentation – A versatile process in cooking, medicine, and industry

Fermentation plays an important role in food production, especially in Asia. Classic examples are pickled radish and Chinese cabbage (“kimchi”) and the popular Japanese rice wine, sake.

Fermented foods are also widely used in this country, such as traditional sauerkraut or the popular soy sauce. In addition to their exceptional taste, fermented foods also offer health benefits. During the fermentation process, vitamins, antioxidants, and natural amino acids are produced, which are extremely important for the body and health. Fermented ingredients support detoxification of the body and promote healthy digestion. In addition, ingredients such as vitamins and minerals become particularly bioavailable by fermentation, which means they can be better absorbed by the body.

Raw tobacco, tea leaves and important medical substances such as insulin and antibiotics are also produced by fermentation. In the industrial sector, fermentation is indispensable, for example in the fermentation of biomass for biogas production.

Originally, fermentation was used to preserve vegetables and fruit. Only later was it recognized that important nutrients are also produced in the process, which can have a positive influence on health and the immune system.

Fermented ingredients and cosmetics: more than just a trend

Asian cosmetics manufacturers have made a remarkable discovery regarding the benefits of fermented plant ingredients for our skin. They pioneered the creation of skincare and cosmetic products using fermentation techniques. Unlike traditional methods, these products do not contain preservatives that could harm the vital microbes responsible for fermentation. Instead, harmful bacteria, which can contribute to acne, skin blemishes, and reduce product longevity, are carefully eliminated from the natural ingredients. This separation ensures that cosmetic products utilizing fermented ingredients have an exceptionally extended shelf life. However, the advantages go far beyond this aspect. Fermented ingredients possess unique properties and capabilities. To maximize the concentration of natural components and enhance their effectiveness, an increasing number of healing herbs, nuts, fruits, and rose petals are now combined with specialized cultures and subjected to fermentation. Fermented ingredients for beauty care are far more than just a passing trend; they represent a significant advancement with enduring benefits.

These fermented ingredients are ideally suited for the production of your cosmetics. Together with Cosmacon you will develop your product, so that it will certainly be a successful start to building your own brand.

How do fermented ingredients affect our skin?

Fermented ingredients in cosmetic products are particularly suitable for people with dry skin, because the acids they contain make them ideal moisturizers. Valuable amino acids (for example glycine) tighten and revitalize the skin at the first signs of aging. Among other things, the substance glycine is able to stimulate the natural cell renewal of the skin and promote collagen production. At the same time, glycine is an extremely valuable antioxidant that protects the skin from harmful UV rays and reduces dangerous free radicals. Skin care products containing fermented ingredients can even help with dark skin spots and excessive pigmentation by lightening not only the spots, but the overall skin tone.

Polyglutamic acid, which is produced during the production of fermented soybeans, and fermented yeast extract are also two very effective fermentative agents. They accelerate cell renewal, increase cell growth and thus support natural skin generation. So, in principle, fermented ingredients are a very innovative anti-aging formula that increases the energy level of the skin and helps with the cellular repair process. The complexion becomes wonderfully smooth and supple.

One study has already shown that fermented soy extract has much better antioxidant properties than the unfermented variety. And fermented red ginseng also demonstrated a significantly higher anti-aging effect in the test than the unfermented substance. This impressively demonstrates the high benefit that fermented ingredients possess.

Fermented ingredients vs. conventional substances

Hyaluronic acid, a major moisture-binding and anti-aging active ingredient, is nowadays also mostly produced by fermentation. On the one hand, this makes it somewhat more expensive than animal hyaluronic acid, but on the other hand, it is also characterized by a special purity. In the past, hyaluronic acid was often produced from rooster combs. This caused a certain disgust among many people, and the allergy risk was also relatively high due to the animal proteins it contained. In addition, it could never be completely ruled out that pathogens could be transmitted to humans. And another very important aspect: hyaluronic acid, which is produced biotechnologically by fermentation, has a marked increase in molecular weight, which means that it has many more positive properties than the animal variant.

Fermented ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are therefore the more sensible alternative from several points of view.

The manufacturing process for fermented ingredients is quickly explained: special extracellular proteins from yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) are fermented with the help of Streptococcus zooepidemicus bacteria. Hyaluronic acid is then filtered out.

Important fermented ingredients at a glance:

Buckwheat Ferment Extract

INCI: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Aspergillus/Buckwheat Ferment Extract

Properties: an antioxidant and anti-aging agent

DS-Kefir Ferment Extract

INCI: Lactobacillus / Soy Ferment Extract, Butylene Glycol, Hexanediol, Aqua

Use: transparent liquid, ideal for hair and skin conditioning applications.

Fermented Yeast Extract

INCI: Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Features: rich in minerals, amino acids and vitamins

Properties: to improve skin structure, to make skin more supple, protective against damage from UV rays, bleaching effect for pigment spots

LactoPro

INCI: Lactobacillus/Milk Solids/Soybean Oil Ferment, Cyclodextrin

Properties:  skin-macronutrient complex, moisturizing and vitalizing

Use:  creams, lotions, ointments, hair conditioners

SC-Glucan

INCI: Schizophyllum Commune Mycelium Ferment Filtrate Extract

Properties: promotes the synthesis of collagen, improves skin elasticity, anti-inflammatory, alleviates UV-induced skin damage

Pullulan

INCI: Pullulan

Properties: a natural polysaccharide produced by fermentation from starch. Of 100 percent plant origin, film-forming,

Use: for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications

Red Ginseng Ferment Oil

INCI: Pseudozyma Epicola, Apricot Kernel Oil, Olive Fruit Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Extract Filtrate

Properties: Nourishing, improves skin feel, absorbs quickly and is not greasy.

Use: for skin and sun care

Antarcticine

INCI: Aqua, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Properties: a glycoprotein exopolymer from biofermentation, protects against redness and dryness caused by cold, reduces wrinkle depth, improves skin regeneration

Seadermium(TM)

INCI: Glycerin, Water, Bacillus Ferment

Properties: especially suitable for mature skin, helps smooth wrinkles. Moisturizes the skin and stimulates collagen formation.

We are also happy to work with these fermentative active ingredients:

Cosmacon develops forward-looking formulations for you

In recent times, cosmetic manufacturers in Korea and Japan have shown a growing interest in utilizing fermented ingredients. They have coined the term “Korean Beauty” to symbolize a luminous and flawless complexion with a distinctive radiance. As new discoveries emerge, it is highly probable that this trend will prompt a reassessment within the European cosmetics industry in the months and years to come. The significance of fermented ingredients is expected to escalate without a doubt. We are already equipped to provide tailored solutions that cater to your specific needs. Please feel free to reach out to us. We are delighted to provide you with detailed information on the benefits of fermented ingredients!

Sources:

Biological and Cosmetical Importance of Fermented Raw Materials: An Overview.; Majchrzak W, Motyl I, Śmigielski K.Molecules. 2022 Jul 28;27(15):4845.

Fermenting Red Ginseng Enhances Its Safety and Efficacy as a Novel Skin Care Anti-Aging Ingredient: In Vitro and Animal Study; Hyun-Sun Lee at al; J Med Food 15 (11) 2012, 1015–1023

Assessment of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties and Safety of Use of Model Skin Tonics with Kombucha-Fermented Red Berry Extracts.; Ziemlewska A, Nizioł-Łukaszewska Z, Zagórska-Dziok M, Wójciak M, Szczepanek D, Sowa I.Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Nov 24;23(23):14675