Glyceryl Caprylate

Glyceryl caprylate (GMCY) is a monoester of glycerol with caprylic acid. The name caprylic acid is derived from the Latin word “capra”, which means “goat”. The reason for this unusual naming: caprylic acid occurs as a triglyceride in goat butter. The acid is also found as a triglyceride (“glycerol triester”) in about five to nine per cent of coconut oil. Glyceryl caprylate is an excellent multifunctional raw material for cosmetics.

Glyceryl caprylate a multifunctional additive

Glyceryl caprylate is a widely used chemical compound in the cosmetics industry that can fulfil various functions. Here are some of the most common uses and properties of glyceryl caprylate in cosmetics:

1. emulsifier: GMCY can be used as an emulsifier to stabilise the oil and water phases in a formulation. This is particularly important in creams, lotions and other emulsions. Due to its amphiphilic structure, glyceryl caprylate is very often used as a co-emulsifier. This special structure ensures that the surface tension is reduced, which in turn leads to the formation of smaller droplets. The result: significantly more stable emulsions. At higher concentrations, glyceryl caprylate (GMCY) reduces the viscosity of emulsions.
2. preservative: Glyceryl Caprylate also acts as a preservative that can help inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic products. It can be combined with other preservatives to improve the shelf life of formulations.
3. moisturiser: Due to its structural properties, GMCY is able to draw moisture into the skin and bind it there, which can lead to improved skin hydration.
4. emollient: Glyceryl Caprylate can give the skin a soft and smooth feel, improving the texture of cosmetic products.
5. odour corrector: It can also be used as an odour-correcting agent to mask unpleasant odours in cosmetic formulations.

It not only has a biologically stabilising effect, but also regulates moisture and moisturises. It is also very well tolerated by the skin.

Possible uses of GMCY in cosmetics

The raw material is particularly suitable for stabilising surfactants and O/W emulsions. Due to its high effectiveness against yeasts and bacteria, glyceryl caprylate is also frequently used as a supporting ingredient in anti-acne products. Conventional preservatives can be dispensed with as GMCY has excellent antimicrobial activity. The effectiveness of glyceryl caprylate can be further increased by adding lactic acid, whereby the lactic acid concentration should ideally be between 0.5 and 1.0 per cent.

Glyceryl caprylate is an excellent choice for high-quality natural cosmetics, but can of course also be used in conventional cosmetics. The substance is particularly suitable for emulsions, aqueous products and oils. In aqueous products without alcohol, however, glyceryl caprylate should be used together with a solubiliser. GMCY is also used as a natural emulsifier in oil mixtures such as bath chocolates and bath oils. When added to water, GMCY emulsifies the oil in water, creating a milky mixture that rinses off easily and quickly without leaving the skin feeling unpleasantly greasy.

With so many advantages, there is also a small disadvantage. Direct contact with the eyes or eye mucosa can lead to sensitisation: The eyes can become red, itchy and watery.

From our point of view, glyceryl caprylate is therefore only suitable to a limited extent and up to a maximum of 0.75 % for oils intended for facial cleansing. A maximum concentration of 0.3% should be used in the eye area.

GMCY as a highly effective and versatile all-rounder

Different application concentrations are available for GMCY depending on the desired area of application. If the substance is to be used primarily as a preservative booster, an application concentration of 0.3 to 0.5 per cent is recommended. When used as an emollient, the ideal dosage is between 0.5 and 1.0 per cent. A pH value of 5.0 to 7.0 is optimal for the final formulation.

Glyceryl caprylate is already contained in many formulas and formulations. From body lotions to anti-ageing products, from hand creams to hair conditioners – the range of possible applications is enormous. Thanks to its excellent skin compatibility, GMCY is even suitable for baby care and is also an ideal solution for lip balm, body butter and body scrub.

PROFILE: GMCY

INCI: Glyceryl caprylate

CAS number: 26402-26-6

EINECS number: 247-668-1

Description: waxy solid

Melting range: 30 to 35 degrees Celsius

We like to work with raw materials that contain glyceryl caprylate:

All-rounder glyceryl caprylate: the natural all-rounder

Glyceryl caprylate combines excellent hydrating, moisture-binding and -replenishing properties with exceptional skin compatibility. It also has a remarkable effect against micro-organisms. The impressive function as a preservative booster rounds off the almost unique spectrum of this special ingredient. Conclusion: The highly pure and multifunctional monoester of glycerine and caprylate fatty acid is an optimal choice for high-quality cosmetics in a wide range of applications. The fact that GMCY is Ecocert-certified further emphasises the special status of this ingredient. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions about optimisation and challenges relating to preservative systems.

Sources: 

Application of a Multifunctional Additive in Cosmetic Preparations for Safe Preservation.; Juncan, A. M., Rus, L. L., Craciun, V. I., Tincu, A. L. V., & Morgovan, C. REVISTA DE CHIMIE, (2019) 70(7), 2429-2433.

A new alternative to cosmetics preservation and the effect of the particle size of the emulsion droplets on preservation efficacy.;M Fang B, Yu M, Zhang W, Wang F.Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 Oct;38(5):496-503. 

The Role of Preservatives and Multifunctionals on the Oxidation of Cosmetic O/W Emulsions.; Springer, A., & Ziegler, H. Cosmetics, (2022).9(3), 59.