Hops

Hops have been considered the soul of beer for centuries. It fulfils several functions in this popular beverage: It stabilises the beer foam, its antibiotic properties protect against rapid spoilage and its high content of bitter and aromatic substances intensifies the typical taste of beer.

The medicinal plant of the year 2007 is mainly native to Central Europe, with the most important German cultivation areas being in Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt and Thuringia. The harvest begins around the end of March each year. Real hops are extracted with an alcohol-water mixture to produce hop extract, which has been officially authorised as a beer ingredient since 1968. The powdered or granular extract is also traditionally used in medicine, as individual ingredients have an anti-inflammatory and calming effect. They also have a balancing effect on our nervous system and can contribute to relaxation.

Ingredients and mode of action of real hops

The most important ingredients of the hop plant are the hop bitters (resin) and the essential hop oil. There are also polyphenols (tannins), minerals, phytohormones, flavonoids and proteins. Kämpferol, quercetin, quercitrin and rutin are among the strongest representatives of the flavonoids. Kämpferol and quercetin play a particularly important role here, as they protect the skin tissue from the dreaded effects of free radicals, which are known to be caused primarily by exposure to sunlight.

Hop oil – more than just an oil

The essential hop oil contained in hop oil can in turn be broken down into more than 150 individual substances, including humulene, myrcene, farnesene, caryophylene and various fatty acid esters. Epicatechin gallate’s as the strongest representative among the gallates, has a strong antioxidant effect, in hop oil or hops extract.

The bitter substances contained in real hops as hop extract stimulate the secretion of gastric juices, which is why hops are often used in traditional folk medicine to treat indigestion and loss of appetite. These bitter substances are basically divided into two groups: the alpha acids with humulone or its derivatives and the beta acids with the parent substance lupulone.

Real hops – with antibacterial effect

The combination of the two substances lupulone and humulone produces 2-methylbut-3-en-2-ol, a substance that is said to be responsible for the calming effect on the one hand, but is also characterised by an antibacterial effect on the other.

Put simply, humulone and lupulone inhibit the growth of certain bacteria, including staphylococci, micrococci, mycobacteria and streptomycetes, by directly destroying the cell walls of the bacteria. The antibiotic properties of bitter acids and prenyl flavonoids also act against dermatologically relevant germs, which play a role in the development of acne pimples, for example.

In addition, real hops as a hop extract can kill various fungi such as Candida albicans and trichophytes.

Scientists now also assume that real hops as a hop extract can even combat viruses such as herpes simplex. However, no positive effect has yet been observed with gram-negative bacteria.

Xanthohumol

Xanthohumol is a prenylated plant polyphenol that belongs to the chalcones and has so far only been found in hops. The bitter hop varieties have significantly higher levels of xanthohumol than the flavour varieties.

Among the chalcones, xanthohumol is the most frequently occurring substance. Xanthohumol inhibits the enzyme MMP9, also known as matrix metalloproteinase, which is partly responsible for the breakdown of connective tissue. At the same time, it stimulates the formation of new connective tissue fibres such as elastin and fibrillin.

Hop flowers are highly valued as “flavour pillows” in aromatherapy. Preparations made from hop cones, on the other hand, are very suitable as a natural sleep aid and sedative. The effectiveness of real hops as a hop extract has already been confirmed in this context by the Federal Institute for Drugs and Medical Devices.

Real hops as hop extract in cosmetics

Real hops as a hop extract have long been known for their stimulating effect on human collagen production. This is mainly due to its phytohormone content. In this respect, the extract has a similar effect to red clover and black cohosh, for example, and is therefore particularly suitable for mature or very dry skin. As a hop extract, real hops stimulate blood circulation in the skin and have anti-inflammatory properties in cosmetic products. Nervous and overstimulated skin can recover better and real hops as hop extract is also a highly effective solution for inflammatory skin conditions. Possible formulations include lotions and creams, which are particularly suitable for sensitive, irritated, mature and dry skin.

Increasingly, however, real hops are also being used as hop extract in hair care products. The reason is obvious: thanks to their valuable ingredients, shampoos and conditioners with hops soothe the scalp and give the hair more body and strength.

In addition, as a hop extract, real hops have antioxidant and oestrogenic properties, inhibit or alleviate inflammation and help to strengthen connective tissue.

But be careful: the use of fresh hop plants is strongly discouraged, as contact with the skin can lead to so-called hop picker’s disease. This manifests itself in sometimes severe allergic reactions. This risk does not exist with real hops as hop extract.

Data sheet real hops

INCI: Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract

CAS number: 8016-25-9

Description: viscous dark green extract

Plant family: Cannabaceae (hemp family)

We like to work with these active ingredients based on real hops:

Real hops as a hop extract, an effective all-rounder

The antioxidant and oestrogenic effect, the effective activation of connective tissue regeneration and the protection against the breakdown of connective tissue by enzymes such as MMP9 make real hops as a hop extract a versatile and highly suitable ingredient in cosmetics. This is particularly true for anti-ageing creams, but the extract is also an excellent choice in soothing lotions and products specifically for dry and irritated skin. It can also optimally utilise its numerous positive properties in hair care products. In this respect, cosmetics with real hops as hop extract are an effective and gentle alternative to various “chemical bombs”. Contact us if you would like us to develop a cosmetic product with real hops for your brand.

Literature:

Hop Extract Acts as an Antioxidant with Antimicrobial Effects against Propionibacterium Acnes and Staphylococcus Aureus.

Weber N, Biehler K, Schwabe K, Haarhaus B, Quirin KW, Frank U, Schempp CM, Wölfle U.Molecules. 2019 Jan 9;24(2):223

Xanthohumol-A Miracle Molecule with Biological Activities: A Review of Biodegradable Polymeric Carriers and Naturally Derived Compounds for Its Delivery.

Oledzka E.Int J Mol Sci. 2024 Mar 17;25(6):3398

Hop Tannins as Multifunctional Tyrosinase Inhibitor: Structure Characterization, Inhibition Activity, and Mechanism.

Liu J, Chen Y, Zhang X, Zheng J, Hu W, Teng B.Antioxidants (Basel). 2022 Apr 13;11(4):772

The influence of UV irradiation on fish skin collagen films in the presence of xanthohumol and propanediol.

Adamiak K, Sionkowska A.Spectrochim Acta A Mol Biomol Spectrosc. 2022 Dec 5;282:121652