Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Products with hyaluronic acid are said to be able to smooth wrinkles and firm the skin. They are considered a highly effective anti-ageing weapon, can plump up the skin from the inside and make it soft and supple. This is why products containing hyaluronic acid are no longer a fashion trend, but an essential part of skin care. However, how well they actually work depends largely on the type of hyaluronic acid used, as science recognizes several different types. These differ chemically in terms of the different lengths of the molecular chains and the size of the molecules. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is of particular interest.
The most important facts
Hyaluronic acid is a substance produced naturally in the body and behaves like a sponge in our organism, as it is able to bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. Although there are different molecular weights, it is unfortunately not yet possible to reliably determine this on the basis of the INCI list.
High-molecular hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of more than 500 kDa is a very good surface moisturizer. It serves as a skin protectant and is able to act as an osmotic pump, which means that it can help water-soluble active ingredients to penetrate the skin. Low-molecular hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight of less than 500 kDa and can therefore moisturize the skin somewhat more deeply. Nevertheless, it is a relatively large molecule, which means that it mainly acts in the outer layer of our skin (epidermis). In an interesting study, low-molecular hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of just 200 kDa was used. It was found that it can help the skin to repair itself by specifically strengthening its self-defense.
Hyaluronic acid and other types in detail
Science is familiar with high-molecular hyaluronic acid, which consists of very large molecules. These are “too big” to be absorbed by the skin. They are barely or not at all able to penetrate the natural skin barrier. They therefore lie on the skin like a film and provide it with superficial moisture. Lines and wrinkles initially appear to be filled in. Unfortunately, the effect only lasts for a short time: After the next facial cleansing, the positive effect disappears again. Often, even an increased flow of sweat (e.g. in midsummer or during physical exertion) is enough to wash away the hyaluronic acid film again. Products with high-molecular hyaluronic acid can therefore only improve the skin’s appearance in the very short term. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is completely different. But let’s first look at low-molecular hyaluronic acid. It is able to penetrate the skin barrier. It replenishes the skin’s moisture depots so that it often appears much plumper and more youthful. For a long time, low-molecular hyaluronic acid was therefore considered to be in the premier class. However, it is now known that hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is even more effective and better.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is obtained by the hydrolysis of hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight. It has not been on the market for very long and is characterized by extremely short-chain and small molecular structures. By breaking down the high molecular weight molecules into the smallest building blocks (known as fragmentation in technical jargon), penetration, i.e. absorption into the skin, is significantly facilitated. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid can penetrate into the deepest layers of the skin and store moisture there. The skin is plumped up with an effect that can be seen and felt immediately. At the same time, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is able to stimulate the body’s own collagen production. This also improves the skin structure in the long term.
In principle, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is therefore nothing more than a chemically shredded version of the originally much larger molecule of hyaluronic acid used as a moisturizer. It is now available in different molecular weights, which in turn have different properties. However, we must first clarify the unit in which the molecular weight is specified. Scientists use the unit kilodalton (abbreviation: kDa) to specify molecular masses reliably and precisely. One kilodalton in turn corresponds to 1000 daltons. But back to hyaluronic acid.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and the molecular weight
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100 to 300 kDa provides the skin with plenty of moisture and helps it to repair itself by improving and increasing the skin’s self-protection. More and more researchers are now claiming that hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid can even promote the wound healing process and is a particularly valuable aid for people with rosacea, acne and other inflammation-related skin conditions.
Then there is hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of just 50 kDa. This is exactly the size that is mainly used as an anti-ageing active ingredient, as it is said to be able to be optimally absorbed into the skin and plump up small wrinkles.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of less than 50 kDa is quite rare and really something special. Probably the most impressive example: Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid called Hyalo-Oligo. It has a vanishingly low molecular weight of just ten kDa. This means that it is able to penetrate extremely deeply into the skin, where it provides long-lasting moisture. However, the short-chain molecules not only contribute to very effective moisturization, they also ensure that damaged skin cells are repaired.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid can be used for this purpose
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is particularly suitable for anti-wrinkle products and moisturizing cosmetics. It is also ideal for lip and eye contour care and hair care. The concentration depends on the area of application, but is usually between 0.1 and 0.5 percent. However, it can also be up to 1.0 percent.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid profile
INCI: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
CAS number: 9004-61-9
Molecular formula: C14H21O11N
Physical state: solid
Description: Component of the extracellular matrix, usually present as a linear polysaccharide, acts as a lubricant during joint movements
Effect: binds and stores moisture, helps the skin with its repair processes
Areas of application: for anti-ageing products, skin care products, lip and eye contour care
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid as an exclusive active ingredient for premium cosmetics
Hyaluronic acid is not just hyaluronic acid, that’s for sure. The larger the molecules, the more difficult it is for the active ingredient to be absorbed into the skin. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid has tiny molecule fragments that can penetrate into the subcutaneous layers. This is where they can fully develop their positive effects. Users generally report a highly visible long-term effect. The skin appears plumper and firmer and gains suppleness and elasticity. Cosmacon is happy to formulate highly effective and sophisticated cosmetics containing hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid for you. Let us advise you and benefit from our expertise.
Sources:
Hyaluronate fragments reverse skin atrophy by a CD44-dependent mechanism; Gürkan Kaya , Christian Tran, Olivier Sorg, Raymonde Hotz, Denise Grand, Pierre Carraux, Liliane Didierjean, Ivan Stamenkovic, Jean-Hilaire Saurat; 2006 Dec;3(12):e493. doi: 10.1371/journal.pmed.0030493
Hyaluronic Acid: Molecular Mechanisms and Therapeutic; Trajectory Ramesh C. Gupta, Rajiv Lall,Ajay Srivastava, Anita Sinha; Front Vet Sci. 2019; 6: 192
Pilot Comparative Study of the Topical Action of a Novel, Crosslinked Resilient Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in a Dynamic, Three-Dimensional Human Explant Model; Hema Sundaram, Nicolas Mackiewicz, Emeline Burton, Laurent Peno-Mazzarino, Elian Lati, Stéphane Meunier Drugs Dermatol 2016 Apr;15(4):434-41
Functions of hyaluronan in wound repair. Wound Repair; Regen. 1999 Mar-Apr;7(2):79-89; Chen WY, Abatangelo G.
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging; Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G.; Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253–258; 2012
Proteoglycan Combined with Hyaluronic Acid and Hydrolyzed Collagen Restores the Skin Barrier in Mild Atopic Dermatitis and Dry, Eczema-Prone Skin: A Pilot Study. Lee YI, Lee SG, Kim J, Choi S, Jung I, Lee JH; Int J Mol Sci. 2021 Sep 22;22(19)
Crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid for Topical Cosmetic Applications Dolečková, J. Bystroňová, M. Marešová, V. Hrobař, P. Šedová, M. Čepa, O. Židek, Z. Dušková, M. Pravda, R. Buffa; SOFW 4-2018
Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment; Pavicic T. et al., ; J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Sep;10(9):990 1000