Laurel wax
Laurel wax is still a relatively new cosmetic raw material, but it is becoming more and more popular. And with good reason, as the wax offers countless benefits and is completely natural.
Origin and extraction
Laurel wax is sometimes also called myrica wax, but chemically it is not a wax but a fat. It is obtained from the shells of the berries of a small tree that is mainly native to Latin America and Colombia in particular: the Myrica Pubescens. There are around 50 species of Myrica worldwide and they are either deciduous or evergreen. Myrica wax is a so-called shell wax, which protects the small greyish berries of the tree from environmental influences and moisture loss. It is obtained by water extraction. Laurel wax is greenish in colour and has a pleasantly fresh scent.
Benefits, effects and possible uses
Laurel wax consists mainly of palmitic acid glycerol ester and has some extraordinary properties. Thanks to its special chemical structure, it is extremely resistant to oxidation, which means that it does not tend to turn rancid quickly. The melting point is remarkably low and is between 40 and a maximum of 50 degrees Celsius.
Laurel wax feels similar to soap and is therefore relatively hard. It is a “solid oil”, so to speak, which ensures optimum softening but is nevertheless non-greasy. Its spreadability in cosmetic formulations is excellent. Myrica wax is always the perfect ingredient when a particularly smooth consistency is required in a cosmetic product and the use of critical substances is to be avoided.
Laurel wax reduces the stickiness of creams, gels, and emulsions, makes brushing and combing easier in hair conditioners and gives hair styling products very good adhesive properties. The addition of two to three per cent laurel wax gives body lotions a very pleasant, silky, and rich feel.
Laurel wax – more than just a co-emulsifier
As a co-emulsifier, laurel wax is able to stabilise and enrich O/W emulsions. It has a positive influence on the viscosity of oleogels, pastes and similar water-free cosmetic products and ensures a gentle yet rich skin feel. With its nourishing properties, it retains moisture in the deeper layers of the skin, making it appear smoother and more elastic.
Laurel wax is perfect for natural cosmetics. It can also be used as a substitute for beeswax in vegan formulations. It is particularly suitable for the production of sophisticated body milk, skin care cream, body butter, soap and hair cosmetics, but laurel wax is also recommended for massage candles and lip balms, which are much easier to apply thanks to the wax. The sticks become softer and ultimately much more economical. It should also be mentioned that laurel wax is compatible with virtually all cosmetic fats and oils. It is very well tolerated and there are no known contraindications or undesirable effects.
However, the laurel wax used should, if possible, come from organic, ecological cultivation so that it is guaranteed to be free from pesticides and other critical substances.
Bay laurel wax profile
INCI: Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax
CAS no.: 1173925-95-5
Appearance: yellow-greenish pellets with a fresh fragrance
Melting point: 40 to 50 degrees Celsius
Saponification: 210 to 240 mg KOH/g
Ingredients: Glycerides, fatty acids such as stearic, palmitic and myristic acid as well as a small amount of oleic acid
Effect: Provides a smooth consistency, increases the viscosity of oil-in-water emulsions, serves as a co-emulsifier,
Possible applications: Natural cosmetics, creams and lotions, hair pomade and hair conditioner, lipsticks, lip creams and lip balms, massage candles
Laurel wax as a natural additive in sophisticated cosmetics
The vegetable wax from the fruit of the Myrica pubescens tree is a “solid oil” that contributes to the particularly creamy consistency of cosmetic products and is considered an ideal vegan alternative to beeswax. It makes the skin feel very pleasant, makes the hair easier to comb (“without tugging”) and reduces the stickiness of cosmetic formulations. Are you interested in this completely natural and relatively new active ingredient? Let Cosmacon advise you, we will be happy to develop high-quality formulations with the innovative wax for you.
Literature:
Edwards A, Deberry K, Mariani H, Taylor DH, Cochran NJ, Barrios Sosa AC, Scott AR, Williamson RT, Tirla C, Sandefur C, Alexander CC.Am J Undergrad Res. 2022 Jun;19(1):3-11