Manuka cosmetics
Manuka cosmetics belongs to Manuka (Leptospermum scorparium), a plant species belonging to the myrtle family, is native to south-eastern Australia and the mountainous regions of New Zealand. It is also known as New Zealand myrtle or South Sea myrtle and can grow up to eight metres high. The robust shrub bears white to reddish flowers between May and June and requires few nutrients to thrive.
The English botanist and naturalist Joseph Banks (1743 to 1820), who was part of James Cook’s expedition team, observed that the Maori used various parts of the manuka plant to treat gastrointestinal complaints, colds, skin diseases and bladder infections. A little later, Banks was also the first person to consider the possibility of medicinal use in Europe. For the Maori, the shrub was even considered a sacred tree at the time. The indigenous people prepared a brew from the parts of the plant, which led to the term “tea tree” becoming established in English-speaking countries. However, manuka should not be confused with the Australian tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia).
The rediscovery
After its discovery, however, manuka was initially forgotten. It was not until 1925 that the Australian chemist Penfold brought it back to mind. He discovered that manuka oil was around ten times more effective against bacteria than the carbolic acid that had been used until then. The New Zealand government now also took notice and commissioned extensive studies to prove both the skin compatibility and the effect of manuka oil.
It was not long before manuka oil could be extracted from the branches and leaves of the manuka tree by steam distillation. To produce one kilogramme of manuka oil, 150 kilogrammes of plant parts are still needed today. The cultivation and production of the oil is now also subsidised in New Zealand. Due to its excellent tolerability, manuka oil has become a real alternative to classic tea tree oil.
What’s in manuka oil as a base for manuka cosmetics
Manuka oil is rich in sesquiterpenes (cadinene), which make up 65 to 68 per cent of the oil. Cadinene promotes the regeneration of skin and mucous membranes and thus contributes to wound healing. Manuka oil is extremely skin-friendly and has a positive effect on allergic skin reactions, as it regulates the release of histamines. Most important components, accounting for around 25 per cent, are the triketones flavesone, isoleptospermone and leptospermone. The ketone bodies with the three carbonyl groups can increase concentration and performance, as they enable organs such as the brain to draw energy from fats more quickly. Compared to tea tree oil, leptospermone has a much stronger effect on fungi and bacteria, but is still very kind to the skin.
Manuka oil contains five to six per cent of the active ingredient sesquiterpenol. Sesquiterpenol helps to balance hormone levels, as the substance acts on the pituitary gland and the hypothalamus. It strengthens the connective tissue, ensures a well-functioning immune system and strengthens the lymphatic vessels.
At three per cent, manuka oil also contains terpenes (monoterpenes), which stimulate the production of anti-inflammatory substances. Cineole should also be mentioned, although only traces are detectable in manuka oil. However, the low occurrence is actually an advantage in this case, as the substance is often not so well tolerated in high doses. Cineole is helpful for colds and respiratory illnesses and gives the oil a slightly pungent flavour.
The use of Manuka cosmetics
Pure natural manuka oil has a balancing effect on mental well-being. It has a calming effect on the nervous system and proves helpful in cases of inner restlessness. It can be inhaled for colds and rubbed in or used as a massage oil to relieve tension and sore muscles. The spasmolytic (relaxing) effect on the muscles was proven in a British study in 2000. In 2016, Taiwanese researchers confirmed a possible application in the treatment of immune-related diseases and infections. The effect is primarily due to the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties of the oil.
In manuka cosmetics, the oil is particularly popular for treating inflamed, itchy and/or allergic skin, making it an ideal remedy whenever the skin needs protection and healing. It also has a good effect on poorly healing wounds, cold sores, fungal infections and psoriasis. In 2006, German researchers achieved clear positive results with vaginal fungal infections.
Manuka cosmetics with certified MGO are valuable
Methylglyoxal (MGO) is a chemical compound that contains a keto group and an aldehyde group. It belongs to the group of alpha-ketones and is a ketone aldehyde. Methylglyoxal is a naturally occurring molecule found in many foods, especially in certain sugars, and in trace amounts in the human body.
In the context of health, methylglyoxal is best known in connection with manuka honey. Manuka honey, which is extracted from the flowers of the manuka bush in New Zealand, often contains higher concentrations of methylglyoxal than other honeys. This ingredient is often labelled as “MGO” on manuka honey labels and is thought to be one of the substances responsible for the honey’s antibacterial properties. Methylglyoxal can inhibit the activity of enzymes and has been shown to be effective against various bacteria.
The concentration of MGO in honey is often used as a marker of quality, with higher levels indicating a potentially more effective honey.
Ordinary blossom honey has an MGO value of 0 to a maximum of 20, while manuka honey can have an MGO value of up to 1000+.
Manuka oil profile
Botanical name: Leptospermum scoparium
INCI: Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil
CAS number: 219828-87-2
Description: a light yellow to yellow-brown liquid and an odour subtly reminiscent of honey
Effect: anti-bacterial and anti-fungal, strengthens the immune system, pain-relieving, helpful for scars, neurodermatitis, insect bites, colds, exhaustion and stress, suitable for improving indoor air quality
Application: Manuka oil can be used undiluted, diluted or in mixtures.
Manuka cosmetics with manuka honey
In the 20th century, Dr Peter Molan, an expert on honey, discovered the extraordinary effect of manuka honey, which now has to be verified for purity according to the so-called “Molan Gold Standard” (MGS). It has similar benefits to manuka oil.
Bees produce manuka honey from manuka flower nectar, which also has antibacterial activities and is traditionally used as a natural remedy. Thanks to its high polyphenol and mineral content, it is also a real wonder weapon in manuka cosmetics. For example, it stimulates the fibroblasts that produce collagen, promotes the repair of skin damage and helps against blemishes.
In the meantime, however, honey has also established itself in other areas.
Compared to manuka oil, however, the range of applications is broader overall, as honey can of course also be consumed. However, manuka oil guarantees a simpler and more precise dosage.
Things to bear in mind when using manuka oil
Manuka oil generally has a shelf life of around three to five years. If it takes on a very intense yellow colour, it should no longer be used.
It is also not recommended to use manuka oil during pregnancy.
We like to work with these manuka ingredients for Manuka cosmetics
| Name | Supplier | INCI Name | Remarks |
|---|---|---|---|
| SCB Manuka Honey | Lucas Meyer Cosmetics | Glycerin , Aqua , Honey Extract | |
| Manuka Oil - BCE3003 | Biocosmethic | Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil | |
| Pure Manuka Oil - Standard Grade | Down Under Enterprises | Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil | Standard or Premium Grade available |
| CutiBiome CLR | CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH | Octyldodecanol , Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil , Piper Nigrum (Pepper) Seed Extract , Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract | |
| Anti-Pore S | DKSH | Aqua , Butylene Glycol , Kummerowia Striata Extract , Cinchona Pubescens Bark Extract , Leptospermum Scoparium Leaf Extract | |
| Dual Lifting Care | DKSH | Aqua , Butylene Glycol , Kummerowia Striata Extract , Cinchona Pubescens Bark Extract , Leptospermum Scoparium Leaf Extract |
Manuka cosmetics
Manuka oil is the most precious “tea tree” oil and is not only more skin-friendly but also more effective than Australian tea tree oil. It has an exceptionally wide range of uses, as it has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, relaxing, soothing, disinfectant and antiseptic properties. Manuka honey also has many valuable properties that some hospitals are already utilising. Anyone who uses high-quality Manuka cosmetics with Manuka oil or Manuka honey benefits from a unique natural product that is virtually free of side effects.
Please contact us if you would like us to develop Manuka cosmetics with the oil or the honey.
Literature:
Antibacterial potential of Manuka honey against three oral bacteria in vitro.
Schmidlin PR, English H, Duncan W, Belibasakis GN, Thurnheer T.Swiss Dent J. 2014;124(9):922-4.
Chen CC, Yan SH, Yen MY, Wu PF, Liao WT, Huang TS, Wen ZH, David Wang HM.J Microbiol Immunol Infect. 2016 Feb;49(1):104-11
Thamboo A, Mulholland G, Matthews K, Ayoub N, Anderson D.World J Otorhinolaryngol Head Neck Surg. 2016 Dec 16;2(4):203-207.
Gray BH, Green KJ, Haines RR, Hammer KA.BMC Complement Med Ther. 2022 Aug 26;22(1):228