Medical cosmetics

Medical cosmetics: more than just a trend

A new trend has been emerging on the cosmetics market for some time now, and since it makes perfect sense, it is here to stay. We are talking about medical cosmetics. They combine the best of two worlds, namely the medical and the cosmetic sectors. Many people only know medical cosmetics from their general practitioner. There, various procedures and products are used to treat skin diseases and problems such as rosacea, acne, wrinkles, perioral dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, scars and milia (whiteheads). The treatments are primarily aimed at improving skin conditions and skin renewal. In contrast, decorative or classic cosmetics focus on pure beautification and keeping the skin healthy. Medical cosmetics are therefore NOT in competition with decorative or classic cosmetic products, although, in addition to a qualitative improvement of the skin, optical skin improvement naturally also plays a role.

What characterises medical cosmetics?

Medical cosmetics are based on three main pillars:

specially selected
highly dosed active ingredients
the transfer of scientific findings to the products, and excellent knowledge of skin physiology.

The fact that healthy skin and a good appearance usually go hand in hand plays a central role here. The trend is aimed at almost everyone, because virtually all of us have to deal with skin problems to a greater or lesser extent. Some people have small wrinkles caused by (perhaps premature) skin aging, while others have clearly visible irritation or redness. The causes are many and varied, ranging from environmental factors such as UV exposure and air pollution, to an unhealthy lifestyle, to genetic predisposition (in the case of psoriasis, for example). In these cases, conventional cosmetics are either no longer sufficient or are no longer tolerated well. Medical cosmetics are not drugs, but their effect goes far beyond that of classic decorative cosmetics, and the medical influence is unmistakable. It is not for nothing that the buzzwords “medical beauty” and “doctor brands” have become established in this area.

The most important active ingredients for medical cosmetic products

In general, the composition of medical cosmetics differs significantly from the formulations of conventional creams and serums. Primarily peptides are used, but also enzymes, lipids, vitamins, proteins, trace elements and antioxidants. Strict quality controls ensure that the products are safe despite their high concentration of active ingredients. In the following, we present some active ingredients for medical cosmetic products.

The importance of peptides for medical cosmetics

Peptides are chains of amino acids that occur naturally in our body and are involved in a variety of functions in our organism. They have a major influence on our metabolism and, for example, signal our organism to activate the skin’s natural repair mechanism. However, their number decreases with age. It is therefore all the more sensible and important to use them for medical cosmetic products.

Copper Peptides

The well-researched copper peptides help to stimulate collagen synthesis, promote wound healing and skin repair, and have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. They can reduce the visible signs of aging, protect the skin from free radicals, and improve elasticity and firmness. They also promote skin regeneration and accelerate wound healing. Medical cosmetics with copper peptides often also contain other peptides with anti-aging effects, which further enhance the overall effect.

Copper peptides: a brief profile

INCI: Copper Tripeptide-1

CAS number: 89030-95-5

EINECS/ELINCS number: 1308068-626-2

Natural occurrence: in bodily fluids such as saliva and plasma

Effects: antioxidant, firming, regenerative, promotes wound healing, reduces wrinkles and lines

Hexapeptide 11

This bioactive peptide, considered revolutionary by many scientists, protects fibroblasts from premature aging caused by oxidative stress by regulating cellular proteins such as ataxia telangiectasia mutated (ATM) and p53 .

Hexapeptide 11 originates from yeast fermentation and has been shown to improve the firmness and elasticity of the skin. It also increases the skin’s water-holding capacity and has a slight lightening effect, i.e. it regulates melanin production and thus reduces dark spots. Hexapeptide 11 stimulates collagen production, combats signs of aging such as wrinkles and lines, and is considered a modern and effective anti-aging ingredient. It also has a soothing effect and can help with redness and inflammation, for example.

The recommended dosage is between 0.5 and 3.0 percent.

Hexapeptide 11: an overview

INCI: Hexapeptide-11

CAS number: 161258-30-6

Effect: soothes irritated, sensitive skin, reduces the appearance of discoloration, improves skin texture, increases skin moisture, firms skin and reduces wrinkles

Nonapeptide 1

Nonapeptide 1 consists of a total of nine amino acids and offers our skin numerous advantages. It inhibits the production of melanin and thus reduces hyperpigmentation and skin discoloration. It also has an anti-inflammatory effect and stimulates the skin’s moisture-stimulating factors. This helps to prevent the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Overall, nonapeptide 1 contributes to radiant and firm skin.

Nonapeptide 1 Profile

INCI: Nonapeptide-1

CAS number: 158563-45-2

Molecular formula: C61H87N15O9S

Description: antagonist of the? melanocyte-stimulating hormone (?-MSH) with an IC50 of 11 nM

Effect: reduces hyperpigmentation, keeps the skin elastic and moist, reduces inflammation

N-Acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Arginine Hexadecyl Ester

The peptide with the almost unpronounceable name promotes the formation of important proteins in the epidermis and can thus improve the epidermal skin barrier. It is also able to reduce inflammatory reactions. It is also important to mention that the peptide can easily penetrate the stratum corneum in order to take effect in the deeper skin layers.

INCI: Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

CAS number: 96604-48-5

Description: a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide

Extraction: through biological fermentation

Effect: anti-inflammatory, soothes irritations, regenerates the skin, reduces water evaporation

Myristoyl Hexapeptide 5

This is a reaction product of myristic acid with a synthetic peptide. It contains valine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, proline and isoleucine residues. The peptide kills acne-causing bacteria and is ideal for problematic skin. It can also improve the firmness and resilience of the skin.

Fact sheet: Myristoyl Hexapeptide 5

INCI: Myristoyl Hexapeptide-5

Description: based on the binding and anchoring protein fibronectin

Molecular formula: C47H92N10O7

Molecular weight: 909.3 g/mol

Exosomes

Exosomes are the tiny messenger systems of our cells. The cells use them to communicate with each other, because they transport important information and signals. Medical cosmetic products also make use of exosomes because they can penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and promote regeneration and stimulate collagen production there. Medical cosmetic products with exosomes are particularly suitable for age-related skin problems, hyperpigmentation, large pores and acne scars. Two of the most important representatives are listed below.

Extract from the leaves of tiger grass

An active ingredient of the latest generation with an anti-inflammatory, collagen-producing and cell-renewing effect. It moisturizes the skin and improves its elasticity.

INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Vesicles

CAS number: 84696-21-9

EC number: 283-640-5

Exosomes based on lactic acid bacteria

These exosomes stabilize the acid mantle and regulate the pH of the skin. The growth of skin-foreign microorganisms is inhibited and the horny layer of the skin becomes thinner, which is a great advantage especially with regard to psoriasis, acne and blemished skin.

INCI: Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles