Passion fruit oil

Although the two terms passion fruit and maracuja are often used interchangeably, they are actually two different fruits. Although they are related, they are different in appearance and flavour.

Of the 20 or so edible passion fruit species, the purple passion fruit (Passiflora edulis forma edulis) and the maracujapassion fruit (Passiflora edulis forma flavicarpa), also known as egg fruit, are the most commonly used.

The plants belong to the liana family and produce exceptionally beautiful flowers in addition to the fruits, which are berries. In their native country, they grow up to eight metres high. In our latitudes, the plant is too sensitive to the cold, the yellow passion fruit oil even more so than the passion fruit; the former only thrives at temperatures around 24°C.

Facts about passion fruit

Inside the jelly-like pulp are around 250 seeds. These are just as edible as the flesh and are spooned out of the halved fruit.

The fruits are ready to harvest 60 to 90 days after flowering. As soon as they are fully ripe, they fall off the plant. As they ripen, the fruits develop a wrinkled skin and only then do they develop their full flavour.

Passion fruit is mainly cultivated in Brazil, in the state of Parà.

The skin makes up 40 – 50 per cent of the fruit, the seeds 6 – 12 per cent.

Seeds of passion fruit provide around 25 per cent of its weight in oil.

The purple granadilla has the most balanced and finest flavour of all passion fruit varieties and is therefore preferred for fresh consumption.

Maracuja fruit is larger than the passion fruit. It is also called egg fruit because of its shape. Compared to passion fruit, it has three times the provitamin A content, but also a significantly higher acid content. For this reason and due to the higher yields, it is mainly used for juice production. Its juice is also known as “summer wine”.

General use

In Brazil, the passion fruit oil is used for cooking, as juice, in desserts and jams.

In folk medicine, the leaves are used due to their antispasmodic effect for abdominal pain, menstrual cramps and also to reduce fever and inflammation.

Passionflower has been authorised to promote sleep since 2018.

The active ingredient passiflorin is considered a sedative and has an anxiolytic and antihypertensive effect.

Due to these properties, passionflower was included in the Brazilian Encyclopaedia of Pharmacology.

Valuable ingredients

Both types of passion fruit are rich in fatty acids, polyphenols and provitamin A.

The passion fruit contains sugar (sucrose, glucose, fructose), organic acids (citric acid, malic acid), volatile esters, which are responsible for the flavour, the

B vitamins niacin and riboflavin and vitamin C (30 – 50 mg/100 g fruit) as well as the minerals magnesium, calcium, potassium, iron and phosphorus.

In terms of carotenoids, it is mainly β-carotene and lutein that give the fruit its colour and have a positive effect on the skin and eyesight.

With its high lycopene content, the most important carotenoid in the pericarp and skin, the oil contains an effective free radical scavenger.

A study on Passiflora edulis forma flavicarpa found a significant amount of isoorientin in the healthy peel. Like all polyphenols, the flavonoid has beneficial health effects due to its antioxidant and chelating properties.

The fatty acid profile of the oil from the seeds makes passion fruit oil interesting for use in cosmetics.

The ratio of saturated/unsaturated fatty acids is 15/85.

Linoleic acid (omega 6) – up to 70%

Oleic acid (omega 9) – up to 20%

α-linolenic acid (omega 3)

Palmitic acid

Stearic acid

Use in cosmetics

Due to its fatty acid profile, passion fruit oil is quickly absorbed by the skin and can be applied to the hair without weighing it down.

It has a moisturising effect, a light texture and is easy to spread.

With its balanced fatty acid content and high linoleic acid content, it is ideal for the care of skin prone to blemishes and acne. The unsaponifiable parts contain flavonoids that regulate sebum production without degreasing the skin too much.Passion fruit oil does not lie on the skin, but works in deeper layers and thus prevents inflammation, redness, and the formation of new impurities. It has a mattifying effect.

Passion fruit oil is suitable for sensitive skin because it soothes, inhibits inflammation, delays skin ageing, prevents wrinkles and reduces existing wrinkles.

It reduces transepidermal water loss and keeps the skin soft and elastic thanks to its strong moisturising effect.

It also stimulates collagen formation and therefore has a plumping and wrinkle-smoothing effect.

Passion fruit oil should be used in these cosmetic products

Due to its good penetration properties, the oil is an ideal make-up base.

Passion fruit oil is also recommended for body skin. In shower products, the oil moisturises and does not leave a greasy film. In body lotions, it nourishes dry, chapped skin.

When used in hair care, it makes the hair easy to comb, improves its elasticity and cares for the scalp.

It also has a pleasant fragrance.

Available active ingredients based on passion fruit oil

The active ingredient Passioline® from Laboratoires Expanscience, an unsaponifiable concentrate of passion fruit seed oil, has been shown to regenerate damaged skin. It has been proven to promote the self-healing process, skin repair and restructuring. It also strengthens the skin matrix and the dermis-epidermis junction (DEJ).

We have found some interesting combinations of active ingredients with passion fruit oil from the manufacturer Beraca, which offers high-quality components from the Brazilian rainforest for cosmetics.

– Maracuja oil plus açaí and rice bran oil replaces silicone in a revitalising hair care complex. In terms of shine, softness and moisturisation, the complex in a concentration of 2 % was clearly superior to the placebo.

– The combination described above plus babaçu oil can be used in moisturising creams and lotions, after-sun

-lotions, after-sun lotions, cellulite cream, tattoo care and eyebrow creams and gels.

-eyebrow creams and gels. The moisturising effect was measured by corneometry. After 28 days of use, the moisture content was increased 3-fold.

Disadvantage

The IFEU Institute determined an emission value of 230 grams per 100 grams of fruit.

The fruit is therefore not environmentally friendly. However, this disadvantage applies to passion fruit intended for consumption.

It is important to always ensure that the oil is of good quality. It must not be blended or even perfumed.

Profile:  Passion fruit oil

INCI: Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

CAS number: 91770-48-8, 97676-26-1

Plant of origin: Passiflora edulis forma flavicarpa

Description: light yellow oil

Extraction: Cold pressing

Ingredients: Linoleic acid (omega 6), oleic acid (omega 9), α-linolenic acid (omega 3), palmitic acid, stearic acid

Effect: regulates sebum production, moisturises, absorbs quickly, with a noticeable hydrating effect, soothes sensitive skin

Use: Products for the care of oily skin prone to impurities, care for sensitive skin, skin regeneration, body care, hair and scalp care, silicone substitute in hair care

We like to work with these maracuja oil-based active ingredients:

Passion fruit oil – not just delicious

With its extremely favourable fatty acid profile, passion fruit oil is ideal for various applications in high-quality cosmetics. It is particularly suitable for the care of oily, blemish-prone skin. The skin-repairing effects have been proven, as have the soothing and moisturising properties. It goes without saying that the quality of the pure oil should always be ensured.

Cosmacon will be happy to advise you on the choice of pure raw material and the formulation of interesting passion fruit oil products.

Literature

Constituent Characteristics and Functional Properties of Passion Fruit Seed Extract. Kawakami S, Morinaga M, Tsukamoto-Sen S, Mori S, Matsui Y, Kawama T.Life (Basel). 2021 Dec 27;12(1):38

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