Polyglutamic acid
In the process, the cooked soybeans are fermented with the help of special bacteria, resulting in the formation of a very tough and stringy mucilage. This is responsible for the characteristic smell and the extraordinary aroma of the dish. Polyglutamic acid is not only edible, but also biodegradable, water-soluble, and of course completely non-toxic.
Polyglutamic acid has been used in the pharmaceutical industry for quite a long time, namely as packaging for medicines, because the biopolymer is immunologically neutral. A study from 2016 also showed that food supplements with PGA can sustainably increase the bioavailability of calcium and thus prevent osteoporosis.
In the food and cosmetics sector, on the other hand, the substance primarily serves as a very efficient humectant. And not only that: many researchers even claim that polyglutamic acid is more effective and better than hyaluronic acid. But is there really any truth in this? What advantages does the substance offer in the cosmetics sector?
Polyglutamic acid and its effect
In the cold season, but also during stress and after extensive sunbathing, our skin needs an extra portion of care. In this context, care products with fermented active ingredients play an increasingly important role. This includes, above all, cosmetics with hyaluronic acid, which is obtained with the help of fermentation. This well-known active ingredient has long been known for its ability to store a great deal of water: up to six litres per gram!
A truly impressive value that is actually hard to top, isn’t it? Polyglutamic acid not only has similar, but even better properties. However, the substance is still relatively new on the cosmetics market, which is why experts are currently still talking about a real secret weapon. It is said to be able to store up to ten times more moisture than the already record-breaking hyaluronic acid.
In the meantime, more and more manufacturers are therefore focusing on the new anti-ageing miracle. With good reason, because polyglutamic acid has truly remarkable abilities.
Properties of cosmetics with polyglutamic acid
First of all, there is the anti-ageing effect already mentioned. A high-quality cosmetic product with polyglutamic acid can make the skin more supple and smoother. The complexion gets a fresh and very subtle glow and thus appears more youthful and vital. The skin is perfectly moisturised and protected from dehydration. Since a very light film forms on the skin after using a product with polyglutamic acid, moisture can no longer escape so easily.
This effect causes wrinkles and fine lines to recede and are no longer as visible. The effect is usually noticeable immediately after application. In addition, the skin becomes increasingly elastic. If skin ageing has already set in, the biopolymer can show its strengths to the full. The substance is also able to inhibit the enzyme hyaluronidase, which reduces the body’s own hyaluronic acid content with increasing age.
In other words, if the enzyme is inhibited by PGA, the amount of natural hyaluronic acid in the skin does not decrease as much and the water balance remains in an optimal equilibrium for longer.
However, younger people also benefit from polyglutamic acid because it stimulates cell renewal. At the same time, cell growth is increased. Both effects contribute significantly to natural skin regeneration. Thus, polyglutamic acid is an effective ingredient for sophisticated skin care products even at a young age (around 30).
Polyglutamic acid: Better than hyaluronic acid?
Polyglutamic acid can indeed hold a candle to hyaluronic acid and is even being described by some scientists as the new cosmetic superstar. Will the previous miracle weapon hyaluronic acid soon disappear into oblivion? No, by no means! Although polyglutamic acid offers a significantly better water-binding capacity, it mainly unfolds its effect in the upper layers of the skin because it has a relatively large molecular weight.
There it takes over the function of a protective shield and prevents moisture from escaping. However, it is also important that an effect occurs in the deeper layers of the skin, because an optimal moisture supply must also be ensured there. Hyaluronic acid is responsible for this, as usual. It penetrates deep into the lower skin layers, while polyglutamic acid locks in moisture from above.
If possible, both substances – polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid – should be integrated into the skin care routine. This is already being done by some manufacturers: there are now several high-quality products that contain both polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid. Alternatively, both active ingredients can of course also be integrated individually into high-quality formulations.
The only known “disadvantage” of PGA so far is that the active ingredient is relatively expensive and is therefore mainly used in exclusive cosmetics from the higher price segment. By the way, there are no indications of possible allergic reactions at the moment, but of course they cannot be completely ruled out.
PGA is particularly suitable for skin care creams and gels, but also for serums. The substance can also be used for the sensitive eye area: to soften “crow’s feet”, for example. In addition, the active ingredient can be found in some hair conditioners, as it makes the hair supple and easy to comb.
Fact Sheet Polyglutamic Acid (Abbreviation: PGA)
INCI: Polyglutamic Acid (alternatively: Natto Gum)
CAS number: 25736-27-0
INCI: Sodium Polyglutamate
CAS number: 28829-38-1
INCI: Potassium Hydrolyzed Polygamma-Glutamate
Description: a non-toxic, edible and biodegradable polymer found in a wide variety of organisms.
Extraction: from fermented soybeans
Effect: maintains the moisture content in the skin, stores significantly more water than hyaluronic acid, can reduce wrinkles and lines in the skin, makes the complexion more elastic, stimulates cell regeneration
Areas of application: especially suitable for anti-ageing, but can also be used to care for young skin
Polyglutamic acid for sophisticated cosmetic formulations
PGA is similar to the well-known hyaluronic acid, but in one respect it is even better. It can hold much more moisture and is therefore celebrated as the new secret weapon for dry and mature skin. Due to its high molecular weight, it forms a delicate and very light film on the skin, which makes small wrinkles and lines disappear and gives the complexion freshness and elasticity. The upper layers of the skin are optimally moisturised, leaving the face feeling soft and supple – even in winter. Polyglutamic acid is already considered THE innovation on the cosmetics market. Cosmacon is happy to formulate this premium active ingredient for your exclusive cosmetic products!
Literature:
Choi JC, Uyama H, Lee CH, Sung MH.J Microbiol Biotechnol. 2015 Mar;25(3):407-12.
Promotion Effects of Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly-γ-Glutamic Acid on Wound Healing.
Choi JC, Uyama H, Lee CH, Sung MH.J Microbiol Biotechnol. 2015 Jun;25(6):941-5.