Potassium cholesteryl sulfate
Cholesterol and its derivatives, e.g. potassium cholesteryl sulfate, are essential components of the extracellular lipid matrix in the stratum corneum. The proportion of cholesterol in the extracellular matrix is about 30 per cent; in addition, there are 25 per cent fatty acids, 40 per cent ceramides and 5 per cent cholesteryl sulfate.
They are essential for the skin barrier function. Potassium cholesteryl sulfate performs important functions for the proper cornification and cell rejection process as well as for fatty acid synthesis. Together with the fats and ceramides, it forms an effective protective barrier against water, foreign bodies and pathogens.
Potassium cholesteryl sulfate strengthens the skin barrier
It is involved in the formation of the horny epithelial cells and in the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers in the epidermis, thus exerting a regulatory influence on epidermal cell rejection.
The activity of potassium cholesteryl sulfate is increased during the differentiation of keratinocytes. During keratinocyte differentiation, potassium cholesteryl sulfate activates the genes that encode the key components for the development of the skin barrier protein filaggrin. Filaggrin deficiency plays a role in neurodermatitis, for example.
These are all facts that underpin the importance of this cholesteryl sulfate for the skin.
In vitro studies have shown that potassium cholesteryl sulfate inhibits proteases that play a role in the desquamation of the stratum corneum. Desmosomes are responsible for the cohesion of corneocytes. Proteases cleave them and lead to desquamation. This process is disturbed in X-linked ichthyosis. The skin shows the typical fish-scale appearance, because the lack of steroid sulfatase leads to the accumulation of cholesteryl sulfate in the stratum corneum.
A study indicates that the opposing effects of a mixture of potassium cholesteryl sulfate and amino sugar exfoliators, which on the one hand strengthen cell cohesion and on the other hand remove cells, can complement each other positively to repair the skin barrier and smooth the skin surface.
PCS for intact cell membranes
Potassium cholesteryl sulfate is particularly important as a component of the cell membrane. Here it has a stabilising and also regulating effect on the elasticity and fluidity of the cell walls and transmembrane diffusion.
It also protects the small cell power plants in the body, because it keeps the mitochondrial membrane stable, protects it and increases the energy they produce.
In the membranes of blood platelets, it ensures that they can adhere to each other. It has a regulating effect on the enzyme serine protease, which is involved in blood coagulation, fibronolysis and the cohesion of epidermal cells.
Due to its ability to regulate the activity of the selective protein kinase C isoform and to modulate the specific function of the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase, potassium cholesteryl sulfate is an important player in signal transmission. Phosphatidylinositols are phospholipids that occur on the side of the cell membrane facing the cell interior and are important for the transmission of extracellular signals into the cells.
Potassium cholesteryl sulfate makes the skin resistant
And another interesting fact about potassium cholesteryl sulfate that speaks for its protective function and ability to bind water. Together with cholesteryl-β-glucoside, it is found in the lipids of the epidermal scales of the Gila monster (Heloderma suspectum), which is perfectly adapted to life in the desert.
Potassium cholesteryl sulfate in cosmetics
In cosmetics, it is used for its skin barrier-strengthening, skin-softening and hydrating effects. It is suitable as a repair agent as well as an anti-aging component. Combined with peeling substances, exfoliation and care effects can be achieved in a balanced ratio. It also seems to be suitable for skin prone to neurodermatitis.
Potassium cholesteryl sulfate, sold under the trade name TEGO® Sterol KCS, is obtained from sustainably produced sheep’s wool. Compared to conventional cholesterol, it has optimised solubility.
INCI: Potassium Cholesteryl Sulfate
CAS-No.: 6614-96-6
Formula: C27H45KO4S
Molecular weight: 504.81 g/mol
Trade name: TEGO® Sterol KCS / Evonik
Description: Cholesterol molecule, white, crystalline substance, active ingredients; 100%
manufacture: semi-synthetic, from non-genetically modified natural raw materials
effect: strengthens the natural skin barrier, supports cell desquamation and promotes fatty acid synthesis. Compared to conventional cholesterol, the compound is characterised by better solubility and has emulsifying and softening properties.
Recommended concentration: up to 0.5
Use in cosmetics: moisturising cream, anti-aging care, repair products,
decorative cosmetics, bath and shower products, sun protection products, after-sun, after-shave balm, deodorant
Potassium cholesteryl sulfate: an active ingredient with potential
In the skin, it is a highly versatile player, particularly for the cell membrane and the skin barrier. Cosmacon uses modern cholesterol cosmetics that optimally prepare the active ingredient so that it can be formulated in a pure, compatible and readily available form for the skin, and fulfil important tasks for the health, repair and protection of the skin. Cosmacon offers the cosmetic service of a development, so that you too can soon offer such a product under your brand.
Literature:
Cholesterol sulfate inhibits proteases that are involved in desquamation of stratum corneum [1998])
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9699715/
Fandrei F, Engberg O, Opálka L, Jančálková P, Pullmannová P, Steinhart M, Kováčik A, Vávrová K, Huster D.J Lipid Res. 2022 Mar;63(3):100177
Školová B, Kováčik A, Tesař O, Opálka L, Vávrová K.Biochim Biophys Acta Biomembr. 2017 May;1859(5):824-834.
Cholesterol sulfate in human physiology: what’s it all about [2020])