Probiotics
Probiotics: how do they affect our skin? What are they?
Humans are constantly exposed to microbes. We have learned that the body needs them because they are important for the digestive system. Many studies have proven that the living microorganisms called probiotics can supply numerous health functions, such as reducing certain digestive disorders, lowering cholesterol levels and improving the immune system. Although gut bacteria occur naturally, it is highly recommended to consume foods that can promote a healthy gut microbiome, such as yogurt, tempeh, kombucha, etc.
Probiotics go hand in hand with prebiotics. Without them, probiotics cannot survive as they need prebiotics as a food source.
The effect on the skin
It turns out that not only our gut, which is filled with bacteria, but also our skin is colonised by millions of bacteria. In fact, this has an impact on the health of the entire skin. As the largest organ in the body, the skin is home to more than 1000 species of bacteria and some of them reinforce the skin’s natural barrier against bad bacteria.
It is therefore important to maintain the ecosystem of bacteria on the skin, as an imbalance of skin microbes can cause some problems such as redness, dryness, and acne. Skin diseases like eczema are also caused by an overpopulation of Staphylococcus aureus on the skin. Dermatologists therefore advise that we wash our face too often. This can remove healthy bacteria.
While there are not many studies that discuss the benefits of prebiotics and probiotics in our beauty routine. But some small studies have shown positive results. In theory, topical probiotics will help strengthen the skin’s barrier, making it more resistant to damage from environmental stressors. Prebiotics and probiotics can moisturise, improve skin elasticity and reduce the depth of existing wrinkles.
Probiotics in cosmetics
Nowadays, the number of skincare products with probiotics on the market is increasing. As an ingredient, it is quite difficult to include probiotics as each person may have different skin microflora needs. In addition, researchers have not found a single best probiotic to use in the formulation. For this reason, the probiotic cream should contain a mixture of probiotics, prebiotics and lysate ingredients that are able to restore balance to the skin’s microbiome.
Three strains of bacteria that are most commonly used are Lactobacillus, Bifidabacterium and Vitreoscilla. In addition, fermented ingredients can be an alternative to include probiotics in the skin care regimen. The fermentation process breaks down complex compounds into simple compounds so that the ingredients can be more easily absorbed by the skin. In addition to healthy bacteria, fermentation produces lactic acid and hyaluronic acid, which improve the skin barrier and help the skin retain moisture.
Short presentation of some probiotic ingredients
Kefir
This fermented milk drink is rich in probiotics, essential amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that can soothe the skin and therefore have excellent moisturising properties.
Kombucha
Although the effectiveness of kombucha has not been clinically proven, there are many people who notice the positive effects of this fermented tea. As a drink, it offers some health benefits, such as reducing the risk of cancer and infection, lowering cholesterol levels and therefore the risk of heart disease, and helping with weight loss. As an ingredient in a skincare product, kombucha can help improve skin tone, texture, and elasticity
Rice water
Rice water has long been a main ingredient in Asian beauty cures. It dates back to 1000 years ago when Japanese women used fermented rice water to wash their hair and face. A study conducted in 2013 showed that fermented rice water has some antioxidant properties and can improve skin damage caused by UV rays. It is rich in minerals, vitamins and pitera, a by-product naturally produced during yeast fermentation, which is able to improve skin luminosity, reduce wrinkles and brighten skin texture.
Kelp
The beauty industry has looked to nature for inspiration. Kelp is one of them. It is a brown seaweed that commonly grows in the Antarctic Ocean. The fermentation process with Lactobacillus is necessary to break down its thick cell walls and increase the bioavailability of its beneficial chemical compounds so that it can be absorbed into the skin. The essential amino acids and vitamins contained in this ingredient not only act as an excellent oil-free moisturiser, but also have soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help calm irritation and acne flare-ups and reduce redness. Kelp ferment is also a powerful antioxidant that can protect the skin from free radicals and effectively fight the ageing process.
We like to work with these other active ingredients that support the skin’s microbiome:
Tradename | INCI-Name | Supplier | Remarks |
---|---|---|---|
QUORA NONI PRCF | Glycerin + Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate + Citric Acid | Vytrus Biotech | |
Rosaliss biofunctional | Aqua + Butylene Glycol + Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract | Ashland | |
Relipidiu | Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein + Butylene Glycol + Pentylene Glycol | BASF | |
Cannabiot | Glycerin + Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract + Citric Acid | DKSH | |
FENSEBIOM peptide solution | Aqua + Acetyl Heptapeptide-4 + Caprylyl Glycol | Lipotec S.A.U. | |
Ectoin natural | Ectoin | bitop AG | |
Glycoin natural | Glyceryl Glucoside + Aqua | bitop AG | |
PENTAVITIN | Saccharide Isomerate + Aqua + Citric Acid + Sodium Citrate | DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd |
New cosmetics should contain probiotic active ingredients
If you are planning a new development in your brand, a probiotic active ingredient should not be missing. Even when revising existing formulations, a modern probiotic active ingredient should be incorporated to allow you to make a claim along the lines of “supports the skin’s natural microbiome”. Feel free to contact Cosmacon, we will be happy to support you.
Literature:
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Microbiome and Probiotics in Acne Vulgaris-A Narrative Review.
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Probiotics, prebiotics and amelioration of diseases.
Tsai YL, Lin TL, Chang CJ, Wu TR, Lai WF, Lu CC, Lai HC.J Biomed Sci. 2019 Jan 4;26(1):3.
Natural Compounds and Products from an Anti-Aging Perspective.
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Potential anti-ageing effects of probiotic-derived conditioned media on human skin cells.
Hong YK, An S, Lee YH, Yang SA, Yoon YK, Lee J, Lee G, Chung MJ, Bae S.Acta Pharm. 2022 Apr 13;72(3):359-374