Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid
Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is obtained from the amino acid glutamic acid and is considered a nature-identical and natural moisturizing factor for our skin. Sugar cane is usually used for its production. The sodium and zinc salts of PCA are particularly important.
The sodium salt of PCA is found in our human skin and protects it from drying out. As an important component of the skin’s own natural moisturizing factor (NMF or “Natural Moisturizing Factor”), the substance is characterized by excellent water-binding properties. It provides our skin with sufficient moisture and thus ensures healthy elasticity. Unpleasant skin tightness is also significantly reduced by pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid.
Good for skin and hair: PCA
The sodium salt of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid plays a major role in cosmetics and especially in skin and hair care. It is frequently used in special products for dry and sensitive skin, while in hair care it makes wet hair easier to comb and better to manage after washing. The sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is also a proven remedy for the dreaded “flying hairs”.
Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is heat stable, but should not be heated above 70 degrees Celsius if possible. In cosmetics production, it is therefore also incorporated into the water phase, which has been cooled to hand-warmth. It shows intensively moisture-binding active ingredient is preferably used for oil-in-water emulsions, serums for facial care, facial toners and in various lotions and creams for general body care.
Sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid has excellent water solubility, but also shows good solubility in alcohol or glycerin. The substance can be mixed excellently with other hydrating active ingredients. For example, a proven, well-tolerated and very good hydrating mixture would be a combination of PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), glycerin and sodium lactate. The dosage of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can vary depending on the area of application or use. A concentration of 2.0 to 5.0 percent solo or, if a combination with other hydrating substances is intended, a concentration of 0.5 to 2.0 percent is recommended for a hydrating effect.
The sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is excellently biodegradable. It is also completely harmless, generally non-allergenic and non-irritating to the skin.
Profile: the sodium salt of PCA
CAS number: 28874-51-3
EINECS number: 249-277-1
INCI: Sodium PCA
PH value: 6.5 to 7.5
Appearance: It is a transparent to slightly yellowish liquid.
In addition, the zinc PCA is also an important ingredient in cosmetics. The white and very fine powder is obtained from amino acids and L-glutamic acid, this process is called hydrolysis by experts. The zinc PCA is used in high-quality formulations against oily scalp, greasy skin as well as against dry, flaky skin. Here it shows an amazing effect after a very short time and after only a few applications. The unpleasant greasy shine of the skin is significantly reduced, the skin no longer greasy so quickly and strongly after. But this effect can be explained quite simply: The zinc PCA reduces the activity of a certain enzyme, which in turn is responsible for stimulating the human sebaceous glands. In addition, the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is considered an effective deodorizing agent.
Profile: the zinc salt of PCA
CAS number: 15454-75-8
EINECS number: 268-475-9
INCI: Zinc PCA
Mode of action: reduces sebum production, antimicrobial, deodorizing, in small doses also moisturizing
Properties: highly water soluble, not temperature sensitive
Typical dosages: in shampoos and wash gels 0.2-0.5 percent, in facial tonics, hair lotions and deodorants 0.5-1.0 percent, in emulsions up to 0.3 percent
We like to use these active ingredients with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid or its salts:
| Tradename | INCI | Supplier | Remarks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gransil SiW-PCA-10 | Dimethicone (and) PCA Dimethicone (and) Aqua (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Decyl Glucoside | Grant | |
| AJIDEW ZN-100 | Zinc PCA | Ajinomoto | |
| AJIDEW NL-50 | Sodium PCA (and) Aqua | Ajinomoto | |
| ILLUMISCIN | Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Ascorbyl Glucoside (and) Zinc PCA | Rahn | |
| AMC Advanced Moisture Complex NP | Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Sodium PCA (and) Urea (and) Trehalose (and) Hexylene glycol (and) Polyquaternium-51 (and) Triacetin (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate | Rahn | |
| dermofeel P-30 | PCA Glyceryl Oleate | Evonik | |
| CAE | PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate | Ajinomoto OmniChem | |
| PRODEW 500 | Sodium PCA (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Arginine (and) Aspartic Acid (and) PCA (and) Glycine (and) Alanine (and) Serine (and) Valine (and) Proline (and) Threonine (and) Isoleucine (and) Histidine (and) Phenylalanine (and) Water | Ajinomoto OmniChem | |
| Hydroveg R | Aqua (and) Sodium PCA (and) Diglycerin (and) Urea (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (and) Sorbitol (and) Lysine (and) PCA (and) Allantoin (and) Lactic Acid | NCD | |
| Hydroveg Rnp | Aqua (and) Sodium PCA (and) Diglycerin (and) Urea (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (and) Sorbitol (and) Lysine (and) PCA (and) Allantoin (and) Lactic Acid | NCD | |
| Hydroveg VV | Aqua (and) Sodium PCA (and) Diglycerin (and) Urea (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (and) Sorbitol (and) Lysine (and) PCA (and) Allantoin (and) Lactic Acid | NCD | |
| Bio-Plex NMF | Sodium PCA (and) Lactic Acid (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Urea (and) Collagen Amino Acids | Lonza | |
| Fision Hydrate | Aqua (and) Sodium PCA (and) Wheat Amino Acids (and) Panthenol (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Hydroxyproline | Crodarom | |
| CELLACTIVE-WHITE | Aqua (and) Alcohol Denat. (and) Niacinamide (and) Zinc PCA (and) Chlorella Vulgaris/Lupinus Albus Protein Ferment (and) Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract | Rahn | |
| Sensasil PCA | PCA Dimethicone | Croda |
Conclusion: Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and its salts are essential for high-quality cosmetics
The salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid fulfill important tasks in our organism and provide valuable services especially in skin and hair care. They are completely harmless, but at the same time highly efficient, which has given them a certain special position, especially in cosmetics. Whether sodium or zinc salt, both substances have become indispensable in modern, high-performance yet gentle preparations.
Literature:
Kopečná M, Macháček M, Roh J, Vávrová K.Sci Rep. 2022 Nov 14;12(1):19495
Safety Assessment of PCA (2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid) and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics.
Fiume MM, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Marks JG Jr, Shank RC, Slaga TJ, Snyder PW, Gill LJ, Heldreth B.Int J Toxicol. 2019 Sep/Oct;38(2_suppl):5S-11S
Skin barrier dysfunction and filaggrin.
Kim Y, Lim KM.Arch Pharm Res. 2021 Jan;44(1):36-48