retinol alternative
Retinol alternative Adapinoid®: gentle anti-aging effect without skin irritation
Retinol is considered a classic in anti-aging care, but is known for its side effects such as redness and skin irritation. An innovative alternative to retinol is Adapinoid®, a third-generation retinoid designed as an adapalene-containing pro-retinol that offers the same skin benefits as retinol but without the common skin irritations. Efficacy tests show impressive results that distinguish Adapinoid® as a gentle but effective alternative to retinol.
Why retinol is limited to 0.3% in cosmetics
Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is a popular active ingredient in cosmetics because of its anti-aging effect. It stimulates collagen production and promotes skin renewal. However, retinol can irritate the skin and, especially in higher concentrations, can cause side effects such as redness, itching and flaking. For this reason, the use of retinol in cosmetic products is limited to a maximum concentration of 0.3%. This restriction is intended to ensure that cosmetic products are well tolerated and do not excessively irritate the skin. A retinol alternative such as Adapinoid® is therefore a welcome solution for users who want to benefit from the advantages of retinoids without having to accept the side effects associated with retinol.
Adapinoid® – the gentle retinol alternative with convincing results
Adapinoid® is a third-generation retinoid and acts as a precursor to adapalene, a proven anti-wrinkle and anti-acne active ingredient. In clinical studies, Adapinoid® has proven to be more effective and better tolerated than retinol. The most important study results are
- Wrinkle reduction: Adapinoid® was shown to reduce wrinkles twice as much as retinol. This improvement in skin smoothness and firmness makes Adapinoid® a particularly effective retinol alternative for anti-aging products.
- Reduction of skin redness: Compared to retinol, Adapinoid® reduces skin redness tenfold. This shows that the anti-inflammatory properties of Adapinoid® are particularly beneficial for sensitive skin types.
- Protection against moisture loss: Adapinoid® reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 70 times more than retinol. Protecting the skin barrier and reducing moisture loss helps to keep the skin better moisturised and more resilient.
- No skin irritation: While retinol often causes skin irritation, no significant skin irritation was observed with the use of Adapinoid®. 100% of users described the product as gentle on the skin, making it a preferred alternative to retinol for people with sensitive skin.
Product ideas for Adapinoid® – the versatile retinol alternative
Adapinoid® is a retinol alternative that is ideal for a wide range of skin care products. Thanks to its gentle but effective action, formulations can be developed for a wide range of skin needs:
1. Anti-aging face serum with Adapinoid®.
This light serum uses the gentle anti-aging effect of Adapinoid® to smooth wrinkles and improve skin texture. It is particularly suitable for sensitive skin as it works without irritation.
o Use: Apply to cleansed skin morning and evening.
o Benefits: Reduces wrinkles, improves skin elasticity and protects against moisture loss.
2. Adapinoid® Soothing Night Cream
A rich night cream that regenerates and moisturises the skin overnight. Adapinoid® evens out the skin’s appearance and counteracts the signs of aging.
o Directions for use: Apply to the face in the evening after cleansing.
o Benefits: anti-aging effect, soothing and intensely moisturising.
3. Brightening Eye Cream with Adapinoid
The delicate eye area particularly benefits from the gentle brightening effect of this retinol alternative. The eye cream reduces fine wrinkles and gives the skin a fresh appearance.
o Directions for use: Gently apply to the eye area morning and evening.
o Benefits: Smoothes the eye area, reduces swelling and moisturises.
4. Multi-Action Anti-Aging Lotion with Adapinoid
This lotion for the face and neck combats wrinkles, blemishes and enlarged pores. It is the ideal choice for users looking for effective care against skin aging and blemishes.
o Directions for use: Apply to the face and neck in the morning and evening.
o Benefits: anti-aging, skin-clearing and anti-inflammatory.
5. Pore-refining mask with Adapinoid
This mask refines the pores and clears the complexion without drying out the skin. Ideal for oily skin or skin prone to blemishes.
o Directions for use: Apply to cleansed face once a week and rinse off after 10 minutes.
o Benefits: Clears the skin, refines the pores and reduces blemishes.
Physical and chemical properties of Adapinoid
Adapinoid® is a stable, well-tolerated retinol alternative that is easy to incorporate into formulations. The most important physical and chemical properties of Adapinoid® are listed below:
INCI: Oleyl Adapalenate
Physical form: bright white powder
Solubility: oil soluble, which facilitates its incorporation into oily formulations
pH of the preparation: optimal in pH-neutral to slightly acidic formulations
– Molecular weight: stable and low compared to conventional retinoids, which improves skin tolerance
– Stability: highly stable without special packaging (e.g. no airtight packaging or antioxidants required)
– Recommended application concentration: 0.16-0.5% for optimal effect
– Temperature tolerance: stable up to 80°C, ideal for heating in the oil phase
Conclusion: Adapinoid® as an effective and gentle retinol alternative
The results of the efficacy tests show that Adapinoid® is a convincing alternative to retinol. With a significantly stronger anti-wrinkle effect, less skin irritation and better moisture protection, Adapinoid® offers the advantages of retinol, but without the skin problems often associated with it. Cosmacon GmbH supports companies in the integration of Adapinoid® in innovative skin care products that are suitable for all skin types and gently but effectively care for the skin.
Literature:
A prospective, double‐blinded, randomized head‐to‐head clinical trial of topical adapinoid (oleyl adapalenate) versus retinol; November 2024; Skin Health and Disease