Sephora-kids
The TikTok internet platform has already spawned a number of questionable trends. We remember dangerous challenges such as “car surfing”, where girls and boys lay on the roofs of cars that then actually drove off. Or the “ghost pepper challenge”, which involves consuming extremely hot chillies. In the first case, at least one young person has already died, while the second challenge often leads to severe breathing and stomach problems, which in the worst case can also be life-threatening. Now the hype about the Sephora-Kids is circulating on the platform, which itself advertises with the slogan “Trends start here”. First of all, this trend is fortunately NOT life-threatening and cannot be compared to the challenges mentioned. Nevertheless, it can have negative consequences for children and young people.
What are Sephora Kids?
Sephora Kids are usually between ten and twelve years old, sometimes even younger, and mostly girls. They have given themselves the name, which is a reference to the French cosmetics chain Sephora, which is known worldwide. These are children who are often called “iPad Kids” in restaurants and who have just left primary school.
And these children post videos in which they treat their skin with often outrageously expensive serums, anti-wrinkle creams and lotions. And their countless followers of the same age copy them at home. Now you might think that this is harmless fun, with the girls imitating prominent beauty influencers and dreaming of becoming famous themselves one day.
And indeed, the videos are reminiscent of all the more or less professional make-up and cosmetic tutorials that have been flooding not only TikTok, but also other platforms, for some time now. Unfortunately, however, the trend is not entirely without problems, as it can have unpleasant consequences for the Sephora kids. Young skin is far from ready for “adult” products. But neither the Sephora-kids themselves nor most of their parents are aware of the risks.
What is driving the Sephora-kids to this trend?
Sephora kids are conquering the cosmetics departments in groups, contaminating and damaging testers, mixing products together without a plan and creating chaos on the shelves. Many Sephora kids beg their parents to buy them moisturisers for 70 euros or even more expensive serums for a radiant complexion. Others spend all their pocket money on products that are actually completely unsuitable.
But why is that? Nowadays, even ten-year-olds are under enormous social pressure. Sephora kids believe they have to conceal “flaws” or perceived external blemishes that are actually not there. Videos on TikTok and other platforms are living proof of this credo. The result: a lack of self-esteem and an almost obsessive desire for cosmetics.
Psychoanalysts are already warning that the Sephora-kids trend is not a harmless game. Psychoanalyst Michael Stora, who specialises in online behaviour, emphasised that Sephora-kids do not play with dolls in their videos, as would be expected at that age, but are the dolls themselves. He accuses parents of turning their children into fetishes with such videos.
How does the industry view Sephora kids?
Of course, the cosmetics industry is only too happy to serve the Sephora kids, who are so keen on social media, because they open up an attractive new market for companies. However, in many cases, manufacturers do not fulfil their ethical responsibility. Countless products contain problematic raw materials that are absolutely unsuitable for pre-pubescent and pubescent Sephora kids and are usually aimed at people over the age of 25.
Dermatologists have already found that inappropriate products or incorrect use can lead to an increase in visits to the doctor due to skin reactions. Retinol, an active ingredient for adult skin that can reduce wrinkles, is an absolute no-go for young Sephora kids, for example. However, influencers often enjoy a significantly higher level of trust than dermatologists or doctors in general.
It is up to all of us – parents, society, but also the manufacturers of cosmetics – to make it clear to Sephora kids that botoxed faces and injected lips are not beauty ideals that should be aspired to. And that wrinkles are not blemishes, but rather that it is more important to establish a healthy relationship with skin aging, which is ultimately a completely normal and unstoppable process.
What can cosmetics manufacturers and Sephora kids do?
Of course, Sephora kids can also care for their skin. There is also nothing wrong with wearing make-up, provided it is not overdone and parents agree. However, both should be done with products that have been specially developed for children’s sensitive and not yet fully developed skin and have been approved by a safety assessor. Although a dermatological skin tolerance test on children and teenagers is relatively expensive, it is essential.
Sephora-kids looking for great cosmetics should make sure that the products have been manufactured and approved in Europe. The packaging should therefore bear a European address: in this case, creams, lotions and the like comply with the European Cosmetics Directive. Ideally, the products are based on the Clean Beauty concept. Clean Beauty stands for “clean cosmetics” that do not contain potentially critical, controversially discussed ingredients. The composition is geared towards sensitive and delicate skin and is therefore also suitable for Sephora kids in many cases.
The following are some problematic ingredients that Sephora-Kids should avoid if possible.
PEGs (polyethylene glycols / CAS number 25322-68-3)
These are petroleum-based compounds that are often used as moisturisers, emulsifiers, softeners and surfactants. They are difficult to break down and are harmful to our environment, nature and animals when they end up in the drain, for example when washing your hair or showering. They also weaken our natural skin barrier and make it more permeable. The immune system often reacts to the substances with skin irritations and allergic reactions. Good to know: The basis of PEGs is the petroleum derivative ethylene oxide, which in turn is considered to be potentially mutagenic, carcinogenic and teratogenic.
Acrylates Copolymer (CAS number 25133-97-5)
A common plastic that, for example, prevents electrostatic charging in hair gel and hair wax, acts as a binder in face cream and make-up, and provides a film on the skin in shower gel. Some people also refer to the ingredient as liquid microplastics. It also enters the environment, can damage the skin’s protective barrier and is suspected of being able to cause tumours.
Potassium sorbate
INCI: Potassium Sorbate
CAS number: 24634-61-5
Use: used as a preservative in cosmetic products
Potential hazards: can cause skin reactions in Sephora-Kids, could be harmful to white blood cells according to a 2010 study
Benzoic acid
INCI: Sodium Benzoate
CAS number: 532-32-1
Use: also used as a preservative
Possible dangers: can cause allergic reactions, which are often particularly severe in Sephora-Kids with a salicylic acid or aspirin allergy. Can cause ADHD symptoms and lead to genetic changes. Suspected of being carcinogenic.
Benzyl alcohol
INCI: Benzyl Alcohol
CAS number: 100-51-6
Use: as a preservative
Possible hazards: can cause contact allergies, is known to be slightly irritating to the skin
Chlorphenesin
INCI: Chlorphenesin
CAS number: 104-29-0
Use: inhibits the development of microorganisms in cosmetics
Possible hazards: may cause allergic reactions, is a protein and genetic mutagen, is suspected of forming carcinogenic nitrosamines
Titanium dioxide
INCI: Titanium Dioxide
CAS number: 13463-67-7
Use: as a UV filter, abrasive particle or colour pigment
Potential hazards: potentially carcinogenic and mutagenic, especially when inhaled mutagenic, especially when inhaled, has already been banned for use in food
Disodium EDTA
INCI: Disodium EDTA
CAS number: 6381-92-6
Use: as a preservative
Potential hazards: toxic to the environment, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the eyes
In addition, Sephora kids should avoid cosmetics that contain cinnamates.
Cosmetics for Sephora-kids that are age-appropriate and well tolerated
The trend is particularly worrying because children are already reaching for products with critical ingredients. Responsible suppliers should therefore bring cosmetics to the market that are particularly well tolerated and also suitable for Sephora kids. Cosmacon is happy to support you in this!
Literature:
https://aytm.com/post/sephora-kids-gen-alpha-skincare