Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer – is that new? We have known for a long time that hyaluronic acid is an extremely effective cosmetic ingredient. The substance, which occurs naturally in our bodies, can bind huge amounts of moisture and is also extremely well tolerated. The suffix “acid”, which normally makes us think of a corrosive substance, has no meaning in this case.
On the contrary: hyaluronic acid is extremely gentle and virtually free of side effects, as irritation, sensitization or allergies are practically non-existent. However, science now recognizes several types of hyaluronic acid. For example, there is high-molecular hyaluronic acid with its high molecular weight, which forms a film on the skin and provides an immediately visible effect.
However, the effect only lasts as long as the product is on the skin, as high molecular weight hyaluronic acid cannot be absorbed deep into the skin layers. If the cream is washed off in the evening as part of facial cleansing, the effect is also gone.
Alternatives for high-molecular hyaluronic acid
However, there is now an effective alternative to high-molecular hyaluronic acid: sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer. We will explain what this is all about in the following sections. Let’s first look at the other forms of hyaluronic acid. Low-molecular hyaluronic acid has a significantly lower molecular weight and can therefore penetrate the skin very well.
It is therefore able to plump up the skin to a certain extent and supply deeper skin layers with moisture. Nevertheless, the molecular weight is still too high. Even this hyaluronic acid cannot offer a truly lasting and comprehensive effect. The situation is different with another and even smaller form: oligo-hyaluronic acid. It has a very special molecular structure and therefore penetrates very deeply into the skin.
There it not only impresses with its lasting moisturizing qualities, but also with its cell-protecting and antioxidant abilities.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
We now come to another variant of hyaluronic acid that has already been mentioned. It is called sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer. Behind this tongue twister is a cross-linked form of hyaluronic acid. Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It is oxidized to improve cross-linking by propyl bisoxyamine. Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is of plant origin and is not obtained from animals.
The special feature of this form is that it remains significantly longer in the uppermost layers of the skin, as it is not so easy to remove, and therefore ensures particularly effective hydration. Its structure is reminiscent of a sponge and thus forms a kind of depot for moisture. Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer forms a remarkably dense and protective film on the surface of the skin. In this way, water loss from the inside out can be minimized.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer virtually adheres to the stratum corneum, keeps the water on the surface of the skin and thus contributes to optimal moisturization. Compared to high-molecular hyaluronic acid, hydration can be improved by up to 62 percent in just one hour.
It is less susceptible to enzymes
In the cosmetics industry, cross-linked hyaluronic acid hydrogels are often used as dermal fillers that have to be injected. However, as has already been shown, they are also suitable as raw materials for topical cosmetic products, i.e. for creams and serums intended for external application. In this context, a special form of sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is particularly worth mentioning.
This form is sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer in powder form. We have developed it for topical cosmetic use. The special properties have of course been tested in vitro and in vivo. The sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer powder is completely water-soluble. It forms a soft and pleasant hydrogel microparticle suspension. From a macroscopic point of view, this resembles a “real” solution.
The porous structure of sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer absorbs a very large amount of water. This effectively moisturizes the skin. Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer therefore forms a smooth protective film on the skin and continuously releases the bound water, which means that the active ingredient has a long-term moisturizing effect. Even deep mimic wrinkles are immediately and visibly reduced.
At the same time, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is not as susceptible to enzymatic degradation as classic hyaluronic acid. It therefore remains on the skin structure for longer, which in turn means that the highly visible anti-wrinkle effect also lasts much longer.
Profile of this Crosspolymer:
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
CAS number: 105524-32-1
Description: a modified and cross-linked form of hyaluronic acid that ensures significantly better hydration
Effect: moisturizing, protective (radical scavenger), softening, structuring
Areas of application: Anti-ageing care, moisturizing care
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer as an effective active ingredient for innovative formulations
As this special form of hyaluronic acid remains in the upper layers of the skin for much longer, the effect also lasts much longer. The bound moisture is released gradually, which ensures a longer-lasting effect that is clearly visible: the skin immediately appears much firmer and plumper. Would you like to offer your target group great and effective cosmetics with sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer? Cosmacon is your contact for innovative formulations.
Literature
Novel conformation of hyaluronic acid with improved cosmetic efficacy.
Nam G, Lee HW, Jang J, Kim CH, Kim KH.J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Apr;22(4):1312-1320