Horse Chestnut
Aescin is a mixture comprising more than 30 different saponins found in the horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum). This tree, which is widespread throughout Europe, can grow up to 35 meters high and is best known for its shiny brown seeds, which are coveted collectors’ items for children and hobbyists in the fall (“little chestnut men”).
The horse chestnut has been one of the most important medicinal plants in the world for many years. However, not only the (inedible!) chestnuts, i.e. the seeds, are used, but also the bark, the leaves and the flowers. Extracts from the seeds, for example, are traditionally used against varicose veins and to strengthen the veins, while horse chestnut bark was used in earlier times to treat digestive problems and colds.
The pretty flowers that appear in spring can be used to make a tea that is helpful against coughs. The leaves also have an antibacterial and dehydrating effect.
Horse chestnut and its benefits
Although horse chestnut contains many flavonoids, coumarins, nutrients and tannins, aescin is by far the most relevant ingredient. The triterpene saponin mixture has edema-protective, anti-inflammatory as well as antioxidant properties and a positive influence on the permeability of vein walls. The venous toning effect is achieved by stimulation of prostaglandins F2alpha. Swelling and water retention decrease through the use of appropriate preparations, the tissue is strengthened overall and can thus better support the blood return flow to the heart. Horse chestnut extracts are very frequently used for the short-term treatment of chronic venous insufficiency and against varicose veins. The efficacy of aescin in the treatment of chronic venous insufficiency has already been proven by various in vivo studies. Aescin is also widely used for sports injuries (such as bruises and sprains), bruises, swelling after surgery and hemorrhoids. Other indications are calf cramps and tired heavy legs.
Aescin is divided into an alpha and a beta form. There are major differences between the two forms in terms of melting point, water solubility, hemolytic action, and specific rotation. The beta form is considered the most active component in aescin.
Aescin in cosmetics
Horse chestnut is also playing an increasingly important role in cosmetics. For example, some coumarins have been discovered in its flowers, which have skin-lightening and antioxidant effects. Extracts of the horse chestnut flower are more suitable for cosmetic use anyway, as they are somewhat milder than extracts from the seeds.
Numerous cosmetic products containing aescin are already available on the market. From rich eye and lip creams to light body lotions, anti-wrinkle creams and preparations against couperose, the horse chestnut also knows how to convince with its many benefits in skin care. When the extract is integrated into hair shampoos, it helps to soothe the scalp. In refreshing foot care products and shower gels, it brings its toning effect to bear. And the extract is also an excellent choice for regenerating body oils.
Relatively new is its integration into sunscreen products. This is due to the coumarin compound aesculin contained in the horse chestnut. Aesculin is not only capable of improving blood circulation and stimulating metabolism, the substance also has the ability to bind ultraviolet rays.
In principle, cosmetic preparations containing horse chestnut extract or aescin are very well tolerated. In rare cases, hypersensitivity reactions may occur, manifested by skin rashes or itching. If horse chestnut extract is used internally, slight stomach complaints may occur in rare cases. People taking blood thinning medication should consult their doctor before taking horse chestnut extract internally for the first time. Oral use, for example as a tea, has become rare in the meantime, however, because horse chestnut does not have a very pleasant taste. Alternatively, however, capsules and dragées containing aescin are available as dietary supplements. Contraindications for external use include open wounds, an existing risk of embolism, and thrombosis.
Aescin is approved as an active ingredient for certified natural cosmetics.
This active ingredient is ideally suited for the production of your cosmetics. Together with Cosmacon you will develop your product, so that it will certainly be a successful start to building your own brand.
Fact Sheet Aescin
INCI: Aescin
Alternative spelling: Escin, extract of horse chestnut
CAS number: 6805-41-0
EC number: 229-880-6
Occurrence: Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum)
Definition: consists of more than 30 different single substances
Effect: anti-inflammatory and anti-edematous, venous tonic, vascular strengthening
Fact Sheet Horse Chestnut
INCI: Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract
CAS number: 8053-39-2
EC number: 232-497-7
Description: the extract from the seeds
Ingredients: aescin, flavonoids, coumarins, tannins
We like to work with these active ingredients:
| Trade Name | Company Name | INCI | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Escin | Indena Spa (Givaudan Active Beauty) | Escin | |
| Escin ß-Sitosterol Phtosome | Indena Spa (Givaudan Active Beauty) | Phospholipids, Escin, Beta-Sitosterol | |
| EDEMINE | Sharon Personal Care Srl | Escin, Lecithin | |
| Venocin | Sabinsa Europe GmbH | Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract | |
| PANTROFINA RESHAPE | Sharon Personal Care Srl | Water, Garcinia Cambogia Fruit Extract, Arginine, Escin, Glutamine | |
| Crodarom Horse Chestnut EC | Crodarom | Glycerin, Aqua, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract | |
| ROVISOME F.E.C. | Evonik – Personal Care | Water, Alcohol, Lecithin, Escin, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Caffeine, Potassium Phosphate | |
| Biophytex LS 9832 | BASF | Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Escin, Glycerin, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Redumatte ACE-II | Shanghai JAKA(GREAF) Biotech Co., Ltd. | Cyclodextrin, Aesculus Chinensis Extract | |
| Horse Chestnut Herbasec | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Maltodextrin, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract | |
| Horse Chestnut Oily Extract - BCE1155 | Biocosmethic | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract | |
| Phytexcell Horse Chestnut | Crodarom | Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Aqua, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract | |
| Extracto Hidroglicólico De Castaño De Indias | Neyber SAS | Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract | |
| Anasensyl LS 9322 | BASF | Mannitol, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Caffeine, Zinc Gluconate, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract | |
| Phytotal VT PS | Crodarom | Glycerin, Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Tilia Cordata Wood Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Seed Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Lecithin | |
| SEBARYL FL | BASF | Aqua, Niacinamide, Faex, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Zinc Gluconate, Caffeine, Biotin | |
| Pharcolex BX43 | ICHIMARU PHARCOS CO., LTD. | Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Leaf Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract |
Aescin from the horse chestnut for high-quality cosmetic products
The horse chestnut is more than “just” a proven remedy for varicose veins and spider veins. It can also be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics and is just as suitable for anti-aging products as for invigorating shower gels and foot care products, sun protection products and body lotions. People suffering from couperose also appreciate the benefits of the extract. Let us develop high-quality cosmetic products with aescin for your target group: We at Cosmacon will be happy to advise you.
Sources:
The Biosurfactant β-Aescin: A Review on the Physico-Chemical Properties and Its Interaction with Lipid Model Membranes and Langmuir Monolayers.; Molecules. 2019 Dec 27;25(1):117.
Enzyme and Biological Activities of the Water Extracts from the Plants Aesculus hippocastanum, Olea europaea and Hypericum perforatum That Are Used as Folk Remedies in Turkey.; Sarikurkcu C, Locatelli M, Tartaglia A, Ferrone V, Juszczak AM, Ozer MS, Tepe B, Tomczyk M. Molecules. 2020; 25(5):1202.
Enzyme and Biological Activities of the Water Extracts from the Plants Aesculus hippocastanum, Olea europaea and Hypericum perforatum That Are Used as Folk Remedies in Turkey.; Molecules. 2020 Mar 6;25(5):1202.
Subcritical water extraction of horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) tree parts: Scientific paper,; T. Gagić, Željko Knez, and M. Škerget. J. Serb. Chem. Soc., 2021, 86, no. 6, pp. 603–613.