Hydroxy Acids
Chemical peels such as hydroxy acids can significantly improve the skin’s appearance. Contrary to many rumors, this method is even milder than mechanical peels with tiny peeling grains. Provided it is applied very carefully and the corresponding peeling products are of high quality. But what do hydroxy acids actually do and what is there to consider?
What can chemical peeling do?
This procedure uses highly effective fruit acids that remove part of the upper skin layer and at the same time stimulate collagen formation in the deeper layers. On the one hand, this reduces the appearance of small wrinkles, and on the other hand, it refines the size of the pores. These two aspects are already sufficient to improve the skin’s appearance. But hydroxy acids do even more. Pigment irregularities can be effectively evened out with this method, and germs and bacteria that are normally responsible for skin blemishes, pimples and acne are also prevented from growing. The complexion subsequently looks younger, fresher and more even, the skin gains elasticity and impurities and pigmentation spots recede.
If hydroxy acids peelings are performed by an experienced beautician or dermatologist, there is no risk and the procedure is without side effects. If laymen use the procedure at home on their own, they should do it only with extreme care. If the concentration of the fruit acid is too high or if the maximum possible exposure time is exceeded, in the worst case it can lead to burns on the skin with subsequent scarring.
Are hydroxy acids suitable for everyone?
Anyone who suffers from sensitive skin should first check with a dermatologist whether hydroxy acids are recommended in this case. The specialist then has the possibility, for example, to adjust the concentration and application time to the individual skin type in such a way that the sensitive skin does not suffer from the chemical peel and there are no side effects. Particularly sensitive areas of the face can then also be left out during the treatment.
People suffering from couperose should generally avoid hydroxy acids. The fruit acid stimulates the blood circulation of the skin, so that the redness subsequently becomes much more noticeable.
Hydroxy acids should also be avoided if preparations containing vitamin A are taken at the same time. The same applies to antibiotics: The dermatologist must be informed in any case about the antibiotic intake before the peeling treatment.
As far as the optimum time for hydroxy acids is concerned: winter, when there is little sunshine, is in principle the best time. A treatment in summer is only unproblematic if no vacation in the south or in the mountains is planned in the near future and direct sunlight is generally avoided. Daily application of a UV sunscreen is also obligatory after peelings in summer.
Important rules of thumb for chemical peelings
Those who dare to use hydroxy acids as a layman must in any case heed a few rules of thumb. For example, you should always start with the lowest concentration, which can then be slowly increased over the course of the applications if no undesirable side effects have occurred by then. Daily application only makes sense if the skin tolerates it. If it reacts with reddening or even burns, a break between the individual applications is advisable. In addition, it is always better to apply hydroxy acids in the evening so that the skin has time and rest overnight to recover. And very important: only uninjured skin should be exfoliated!
Which hydroxy acids suit which skin type?
There are different hydroxy acids and they all have specific properties.
AHA peels:
The abbreviation AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid and usually means either glycolic acid (fruit acid), mandelic acid or lactic acid. Here, a concentration between 5.0 and 10.0 percent is common. These chemical peels are best suited for dehydrated and dry skin and are considered well tolerated and gentle. Nevertheless, they are exceptionally thorough and effective. Glycolic acid is also the best solution for flaky skin that is already sun-damaged and plagued by closed blackheads.
Fact Sheet Glycolic Acid
CAS number: 79-14-1
Melting point: 76 to 80 degrees Celsius
Boiling point: 100 degrees Celsius (decomposition)
Effect: Acts deep in the lower skin layers, stimulates cell regeneration, strengthens the elasticity of the skin.
Fact Sheet Mandelic Acid
Alternative name: alpha-hydroxyphenylacetic acid
CAS number: 90-64-2
Melting point: 119 degrees Celsius
Effect: bacteriocidal or bacteriostatic, hydrophilic
Fact Sheet Lactic Acid
Alternative name: 2-hydroxypropionic acid
CAS number: 50-21-5
Effect: increases the content of ceramides, improves the moisture content
BHA peels:
BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid and primarily means salicylic acid. This type of peeling is particularly suitable for oily and oily skin, as the acid has an anti-inflammatory and lipophilic effect and reduces colonization by hair follicle mites. Those suffering from a mild form of rosacea will also benefit from this method. People who suffer from an intolerance to acetylsalicylic acid should not use hydroxy acids with BHA or should consult their dermatologist beforehand.
Fact Sheet Salicylic Acid
CAS number: 69-72-7
Melting point: 159 degrees Celsius
Boiling point: 211 degrees Celsius
Effect: kerato- and comedolytic effect, inhibits the formation of inflammations
LHA peels:
LHA (Lipo Hydroxy Acid) is still relatively new and even more lipophilic than salicylic acid. At the same time, the acid has excellent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, yet – as a hydroxy acid – it is exceptionally mild and gentle to the skin. Ideal for oily and slightly sensitive skin.
Fact Sheet Lipohydroxy Acid
Alternative name: β-lipohydroxy acid; 2-hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic acid
CAS number: 78418-01-6
Melting point: 119 degrees Celsius
Action: strong lipophilic, skin renewing, exfoliating and acne treating properties.
PHA peels:
PHA peels with lactobionic acid are even gentler than AHA peels and are considered excellent moisturizers. They are antioxidant, hydrophilic and a gentle solution for dry, sun-damaged, and flaky skin.
Fact Sheet Gluconolactone
Alternative name: D-glucuronic acid-γ-lactone, glucuronlactone
CAS number: 32449-92-6
Effect: moisturizing and strongly hygroscopic long-term effect, stimulates skin renewal, promotes desquamation, strengthens the skin barrier, antioxidative
Fact Sheet Lactobionic acid
Alternative name: 4-O-β-galactopyranosyl-D-gluconic acid, galactosylgluconic acid
CAS number: 96-82-2
Effect: strongly hygroscopic (water-binding), antioxidant, very good anti-aging effect.
Hydroxy acids: targeted improvement of skin texture with acids
Hydroxy acids are not dangerous chemical bombs but, when used properly and carefully, are a safe, gentle, and effective way to improve the skin’s appearance. However, it is important that the acid is chosen according to the individual skin type so that the result has the best possible effect. In addition, various rules of conduct should be observed when dealing with the substances. Those who take this to heart usually have no side effects to fear. Cosmacon will be happy to advise you on this subject and help you to develop high-quality solutions for chemical peels that meet your needs.
Sources:
Licochalcone A in Combination with Salicylic Acid as Fluid Based and Hydroxy-Complex 10% Cream for the Treatment of Mild Acne: A Multicenter Prospective Trial.; Dall’Oglio F, Fabbrocini G, Tedeschi A, Donnarumma M, Chiodini P, Micali G.Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019 Dec 31;12:961-967.
A kinetic-based safety assessment of consumer exposure to salicylic acid from cosmetic products demonstrates no evidence of a health risk from developmental toxicity.; Labib R, Bury D, Boisleve F, Eichenbaum G, Girard S, Naciff J, Leal M, Wong J.Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2018 Apr;94:245-251
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin.; Molecules. 2018 Apr 10;23(4):863.
The Use of Lipohydroxy Acid in Skin Care and Acne Treatment.; Zeichner J. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2016 Nov;9(11):40-43.
Chemical peels for acne vulgaris: a systematic review of randomised controlled trials.; BMJ Open. 2018 Apr 28;8(4):e019607.
Chemical peels in the treatment of acne: patient selection and perspectives.; Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 Jul 16;11:365-372.