Marigold extract
Botany
Marigold extract is obtained from the genus Calendula LINNÉ of the Asteraceae family. Only two species are used medicinally and cosmetically, Calendula arvensis and Calendula officinalis. The marigold, as Calendula officinalis L. is also popularly known, is mainly cultivated in the Mediterranean region. As a cultivated plant, the marigold can also be found in the Balkans, Eastern Europe, and the Netherlands.
Calendula officinalis grows to an average height of 30-50 cm and has alternate leaves that are 10-15 cm long and 3-4 cm wide. Each stem or side branch bears a flower head 2-5 cm in diameter at its tip, so the plant can have up to 50 flowers. The flowering period is from May to autumn and the colouring of the flowers ranges from light yellow to dark orange. Inflorescences with several circles are mainly used to obtain the extract.
The frequency of flower harvesting is high and harvesting takes place every 6 to 8 days. After drying the flowers, the calyxes are removed so that the pure ray flowers can be used.
Ingredients in marigold extract
The main constituents of the aerial parts of Calendula officinalis are triterpene alcohols, triterpene glycosides, sterols, carotenoids, flavonoids and polysaccharides. Coumarins, phenols, essential oils and allantoin are also found in smaller amounts.
Calendula officinalis flowers contain many pentacyl triterpene alcohols in the form of monohydroxy, dihydroxy and trihydroxtriterpenes.
In the dried flowers, about 0.6 % monoalcohols are found, of which, depending on the harvest, up to 14 % are a-amyrin, about 26 % b-amyrin, about 6 % lupeol, up to 2.8 % taraxasterol and, as the main component, 51 % y-taraxasterol. About 10 % of the monoalcohols are esterified as acetates.
In the aerial parts of Calendula officinalis, 98 % of the diols are esterified, predominantly with C12, C14 and C16 fatty acids (lauric, myristic and palmitic acids). 98 % of the diols are present as monoesters, only 2 % as diesters. The content of triterpendiol-3-monoesters varies from 2 to 4 %, of which about 85 % are esters of faradiol, 6 % esters of calenduladiol and 5 % esters of breine. There are also small amounts of esters of maniladiol and arnidiol.
The flowers contain approx. 0.2 % triterpene triols, mainly in free form, in addition to a small proportion as monoesters. The triterpene triols are mainly composed of longispinogenin, heliantriol B0, ursatriol, heliantriol B1 and heliantriol B2. Dried flowers of Calendula officinalis contain 2-10 % oleanolic acid glycosides, which are also called saponosides. The 3rd OH group of oleanolic acid is glycosidically linked to D-glucuronic acid, which in turn is bound to ß-D-glucose and/or to ß-galactose.
Products with marigold extract will never be white
The colour of the flowers is due to a high content of carotenoids. Depending on the colour of the flowers, two groups can be distinguished: the orange-coloured species are characterised by their content of carotenes, while the yellow-flowered species contain mainly xanthophylls.
The intensely orange coloured ray florets have the highest carotenoid content, which can be up to 1.5%.
The flavonoid content of the flower extracts is between 0.3 and 0.8 %. In the Calendula officinalis flowers, flavonol glycosides with isorhamnetin or quercetin as genin (genin or aglycone is a sugar-free component in chemistry, whereby the glycosyl group of a glycoside has been replaced by a hydrogen atom) could be detected, whereby the contents are subject to climate-related fluctuations.
The polysaccharides contained in the flowers of Calendula officinalis (approx. 30 % of the dried flowers) are mainly composed of pectins, hemicelluloses and water-soluble polysaccharides. The water-soluble polysaccharides are branched acid heteroglycans whose structure corresponds to rhamnoarabino- or arabinogalactans.
Cosmetic effects of marigold extract
Due to their anti-inflammatory, wound-healing and anti-irritant effects, formulations containing marigold extract are popular in both cosmetics and dermatology. Recent studies prove that several lipophilic compounds are responsible for the anti-inflammatory effect of topically applied products, whereas saponins and polysaccharides in marigold extract show only a minor anti-inflammatory effect.
Della Loggia et al. investigated the influence of the extracting agent on the anti-inflammatory effect of lipophilic marigold extracts. Both the alcoholic and the CO2 extract (extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide) showed a dose-dependent effect, whereby the CO2 extract caused a significantly higher inhibition of oedema than the alcoholic marigold extract.
Ingredients of the CO2 extracts are the free monols b-amyrin, lupeol, a-amyrin, y-taraxasterol and taraxasterol as well as the monoesters of the diols faradiol, arnidiol and calenduladiol.
The anti-inflammatory effect of the CO2 extract is mainly due to the presence of the triterpene diols.
These findings confirm Della Loggia et al. according to which the OH group at C16 of y-taraxasterol increases activity and decreases esterification. The study confirmed that lipophilic esters penetrate less strongly and thus show a lower efficacy.
The primary use of marigold extract is topical application for poorly healing wounds, skin diseases, venous stasis, varicose veins, and pressure ulcers (bedsores). Calendula formulations accelerate the healing of wounds, promote granulation of the tissue and inhibit inflammatory processes. In addition, marigold extract stimulates blood circulation in the skin, making it more supple and resistant to irritation.
In cosmetics, marigold extracts are mainly used for topical application in the form of creams for skin care. Beyond its use in skin care preparations, marigold extract can also be found in facial toners, sunscreens, after-shaves, lipsticks, bath preparations, hair shampoos and soaps. Marigold extracts are also often found in dental care products to take advantage of calendula’s therapeutic and prophylactic effect on the gums.
Compatibility
Marigold extracts are used up to an addition of 10% without any health risk as ingredients for cosmetic products such as baths, skin protection products, as well as baby care products. Due to the absence of sesquiterpene lactones, the risk of allergic reactions is also low.
Quality of marigold extracts
Faradiol-3-myristate and faradiol-3-palmitate together with 19 % are the main components of lipophilic extracts and are responsible for the anti-inflammatory effect besides faradiol and y-taraxasterol. The anti-inflammatory effect of Calendula officinalis CO2 extracts is directly proportional to their faradiol-3-monoester contents. An effective extract should therefore be qualified on faradiol-3-monoesters as lead substances.
We are happy to develop products with these marigold extracts/oils:
| Name | Supplier | INCI Name | Remarks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Calendula Officinalis | In vitro Plant-tech | Calendula Officinalis Callus Extract | |
| Calendula Officinalis Extract | Neyber SAS | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| CALENDULA OFFICINALIS HYDROGLYCOLIC EXTRACT (HG) | AQiA Química Inovativa | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Calendula Officinalis Herbasol® Extract Glycerine Unpreserved | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Alcohol , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Sorbitol | |
| Calendula in Olive Oil - 3686B | Bio-Botanica, Inc. | Calendula Officinalis Flower , Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil | |
| CALENDULA EXTRACT 5:1 | Bio-Botanica, Inc. | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| CERTIFIED ORGANIC CALENDULA EXTRACT | Bio-Botanica, Inc. | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Calendula Oily Extract - BCE1121 | Biocosmethic | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Organic Calendula Oily Extract - BCE1575 | Biocosmethic | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Calendula Flower (Marigold) Extract – Phytobasic | Bio-Botanica, Inc. | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Calendula Extract | The Garden of Naturalsolution Co., Ltd. (former Natural Solution Co.,Ltd.) | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Marigold (Calendula) Organic Herbasec® | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Maltodextrin , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| InnovaStemCell Calendula® W | INNOVA BM | Calendula Officinalis Meristem Cell Extract , Glycerin | |
| Calendula Flower Extract EC | Crodarom | Glycerin , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Calendula Oil MONAROM® | Crodarom | Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Tocopherol | |
| Calendula (CH) Herbasol® Eco | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Glycerin , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Marigold (Calendula) Herbasol® Extract PG, unpreserved, system 3 | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Propylene Glycol , Aqua , Sorbitol , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| TOUKINSENKA Liquid | ICHIMARU PHARCOS CO., LTD. | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Biochemica® Calendula Butter | Hallstar | Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil , Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Calendula Glycolic Extract | Greentech | Propylene Glycol , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Actiphyte calendula | Lipotec S.A.U. | Glycerin , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Aqua | |
| Phytexcell Calendula | Crodarom | Glycerin , Butylene Glycol , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| iACTIVE Blue Light | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Calendula Oil CLR | CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH | Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Tocopherol | |
| Marigold Flower CO2-TO Extract - 018.001 | Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Marigold Flower CO2-TO Extract < 0,1 % Carotenoides - 018.010 | Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Marigold Flower CO2-TO Extract (Organic) - 018.002 | Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Organic Calendula Oil CLR | CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH | Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Tocopherol | |
| Calendula Oil (Tocopherol) | Provital | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Tocopherol | |
| LIP-34: Calendula Phyto-Liposomes | NanoVec | Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Phospholipids , Tocopheryl Acetate | |
| Marigold Extract | Berkem | Glycerin , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Organic Marigold Extract | Berkem | Glycerin , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| PHYTELENE EG 003 Marigold | Greentech | Propylene Glycol , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Marigold Flower CO2-TO Extract < 0,1 % Carotenoides, - 018.014 | Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH | Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Flower Power Innovation | In vitro Plant-tech | Glycerin , Aqua , Calendula Officinalis Callus Extract , Silybum Marianum Callus Extract | |
| CarriVect™ 4: Anti-irritating Powdered Liposomes | NanoVec | Phospholipids , Hydrolyzed Starch , Niacinamide , Bisabolol , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract , Tocopheryl Acetate | |
| PHYTELENE COMPLEX EGX 252 BG | Greentech | Aqua , Arctium Lappa Root Extract , Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract , Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract , Hypericum Perforatum Extract , Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Biophytex™ LS 9832 | BASF | Aqua , Butylene Glycol , Panthenol , Escin , Glycerin , Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract , Ammonium Glycyrrhizate , Centella Asiatica Extract , Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract | |
| Pharcolex BX52 | ICHIMARU PHARCOS CO., LTD. | Saponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract , Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract , Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract , Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract , Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Arctium Lappa Root Extract | |
| Pharcolex BX44 | ICHIMARU PHARCOS CO., LTD. | Tilia Cordata Flower Extract , Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract , Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract , Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract | |
| PHYTELENE COMPLEX EGX 244 Sensitive Skin | Greentech | Butylene Glycol , Aqua , Hypericum Perforatum Extract , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract , Tilia Cordata Flower Extract , Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract , Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract | |
| RESOLVING OLIVE FRESH | Sharon Laboratories Ltd | Glycerin , Olive Oil Glycereth-8 Esters , Aqua , Butylene Glycol , Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf Extract , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract , Tilia Cordata Flower Extract , Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract , Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract |
Summary:
Marigold extract is widely used in the cosmetic industry as it offers a variety of benefits. It is rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants that nourish and protect the skin. Marigold extract is also anti-inflammatory and can help reduce redness and irritation. It also has a moisturising effect and can help improve skin elasticity. It is used in various cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, masks and serums. Why not enquire with us today and let Cosmacon advise you.
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