plant-based hyaluronic acid

26. June 2023

We all know hyaluronic acid by now. It is found in countless cosmetic products because it can store enormous amounts of moisture and thus contributes to firmer and more youthful skin. When we talk about this hyaluronic acid, we are now mostly talking about a synthetically produced substance. It is much purer than former hyaluronic acid, which until a few years ago was extracted from animal tissue such as cows’ eyes and cocks’ combs. This often contained residues of animal protein, which in turn could trigger allergies. Artificially produced hyaluronic acid is therefore a thoroughly reliable cosmetic active ingredient. The manufacturing process is even suitable for certified natural cosmetics. Nevertheless, there is now an alternative: plant-based hyaluronic acid. The following article explains what it is made from and what it does.

What is plant-based hyaluronic acid?

Sugar compounds (polysaccharides) that are able to absorb and store a lot of moisture are called plant-based hyaluronic acid. This can plump up the skin from the inside. It also forms a film that protects the skin from moisture loss. Plant-based hyaluronic acid is often extracted from Tremella fuciformis, the Chinese trembling mushroom. More often, however, Indian senna (Cassia angustifolia or Senna alexandrina) is the source of plant-based hyaluronic acid. The extraction is comparatively simple because the hyaluron molecules can be extracted directly from the seeds of the plant. Afterwards, only glycerine or water is added. Cassia angustifolia has been known as a remedy for a very long time. The plant belongs to the carob family and can grow one to three metres high. It grows in Africa, India and Pakistan, but is now also found in Central and South America. As early as the ninth century, senna was a valuable commodity. Its main trading centre was in Alexandria (Egypt): hence the Latin name Senna alexandrina. Even the Prophet Mohammed advised the use of senna leaves. They could be used to cure almost all diseases. Today, doctors in the western world know that senna has an excellent laxative effect. Its leaves have a particularly strong effect, whereas the fruits have a somewhat milder effect. Senna has been studied many times as a herbal laxative. It has also been found to be very well tolerated. Side effects are almost non-existent. The substances responsible for the laxative effect are called sennasoids. The plant can also help against bacterial infections and various skin diseases such as psoriasis, acne, and poorly healing wounds. In Indian folk medicine, it is mainly administered as a tea. But how can senna function as a plant-based hyaluronic acid?

Senna as herbal hyaluronic acid in cosmetics

The seeds of the plant contain large sugar compounds, the polysaccharides. These not only have a similar structure to hyaluronic acid, they can also bind many times their own weight in moisture in the skin. In addition, the plant-based hyaluronic acid forms a light film on the surface of the skin. This provides additional protection against moisture loss. We all know that a sufficient moisture content is a basic requirement for normal skin function and supports the skin’s protective mechanisms.
Plant-based hyaluronic acid not only moisturises the skin, it also smoothes its surface and fades fine lines. In addition, the botanical hyaluronic acid gives the complexion a fresh and vital radiance. Studies have already confirmed this. The plant-based hyaluronic acid lastingly remedies the dryness of the skin and makes it smooth and soft. Since the botanical hyaluronic acid from the senna also has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant effects, it can also be used for the supportive treatment of acne. However, botanical hyaluronic acid is primarily suitable for face, hand, and eye creams as well as for masks in the anti-ageing field.

Botanical hyaluronic acid from the fungus Tremella fuciformis

The botanical hyaluronic acid mentioned at the beginning, which is extracted from the fungus Tremella fuciformis (also called silver ear), has very similar effects. The extract from the spore fruit is the most suitable for cosmetic use. Plant-based hyaluronic acid from the silver ear has both a conditioning and an emulsifying effect and increases the viscosity of cosmetics without, however, causing an undesired sticky feeling. In addition, the plant-based hyaluronic acid makes the skin feel wonderfully soft and supple, because it moisturises at least as well as conventionally produced hyaluronic acid. Due to its conditioning effect, vegetable hyaluronic acid is not only suitable for skin care, but also for hair care.

Fact sheet on plant-based hyaluronic acid from senna

INCI: Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide

CAS number: 85187-05-9

EINECS number: 286-092-5

Description: Polysaccharide fraction from the seeds of Indian senna

Effect: Binds moisture, prevents dryness, plumps up the skin from within, smoothes wrinkles

Fact sheet plant-based hyaluronic acid from the silver ear

INCI: Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

CAS number: 778577-37-0

Description: White granules or powder

Effect: see plant-based hyaluronic acid from Indian senna