Polyglyceryl cosmetics
Sustainable, natural, from regrowing raw material, vegan, free of – these are the properties of cosmetics that increasingly are in consumers’ demand.
Of course, emulsifiers, stabilizers and thickeners should meet these expectations, because even natural cosmetics cannot do without them
PEG/PPG emulsifiers
PEG and PPG are used as humectants, texturizers and emulsifiers in cosmetics, pharmaceutics and food industry. As emulsifiers they allow substances which actually cannot be mixed, like water and oil, to be mixed together. They pave the way for manufacturing a multitude of textures with desirable sensory qualities.
The wide-spread PEG/PPG really cover all existing HLBs.
Thanks to their synthetic manufacture, they are always available, affordable, with long shelf life.
Do PEG / PPG products give cause for concern?
Although PEG/PPG in cosmetics are well tolerable to skin and safe, they have received criticism and some have been categorized as “risky”. PEG-free has become a claim that enhances the image of a product.
The blames:
PEG/PPGs are suspected to increase skin’s permeability for harmful, allergy-causing and cancerogenic substances.
PEG/PPG-containing emulsifiers, mainly in leave-on products, could damage skin’s barrier causing skin dehydration and increasing the probability of the absorption of harmful substances and environmental toxins. Though the permeation of PEG through intact skin is low, however, possible if skin’s barrier in weakened. Especially synthetic emulsifiers could favor the washing-out of skin lipids in the course of cleansing.
There are hints that some PEGs increase skin’s sensitivity to light.
PEG/PPGs are not biologically degradable and therefore damaging to environment.
Though facts on some PEG/PPG should not be generalized, PEG/PPGs are not desirable in formulations made of regrowing raw materials.
Polyglyceryl cosmetics: an ideal alternative to PEG/ PPG products
The PEG/PPG-free alternative polyglyceryl ccsmetics derives from plant origin.
The benefits of emulsifiers made of regrowing raw material have benefits similar to those of PEF/PPG products without the disadvantages. Many of them are suitable for reformulating PEG-free products.
Usual emulsifiers have a hydrophile part of PEG/PPG groups. Polyglyceryl cosmetics use a plant fatty acid as lipophile part and a polymer as hydrophile part.
Polyglyceryl esters, made of glycerin and fatty acids of plant origin, like rapeseed oil or soy oil, are used as emulsifiers in food industry.
Polyglyceryl cosmetics uses regrowing raw material like rapeseed oil or RSPO certified palm kernel oil.
The emulsifiers of polyglyceryl cosmetics feature several positive aspects for environment, harmlessness for skin, safety and production:
- biologically degradable
- renewable basic ingredients
- gentle to skin, without irritations, do not sensitize skin
- moisturizing, improve skin hydration, balance, smooth skin
- cover a broad spectrum of HLB
- allow reformulation of PEG/PPG formulations in a new and natural way
- similar features of spreadability, absorption, some with less whitish tinge, no greasy skin feeling
Compared to ethoxylates (PEG, PPG), polyglyceryl esters have following advantages:
- Polyglyceryl esters can be optimized to build self-organizing lamellar structures giving higher emulsion stability.
- Polygyceryl esters are less temperature-sensitive in their phase reactions (e.g., not so rapid phase inversion at higher temperatures).
- Polyglyceryl esters are more tolerant to electrolytes, compared to ethoxylates.
- Polyglyceryl esters are more compatible with oil phases of different polarities.
Conclusion: Plant polyglyceryl esters allow stable emulsion with good sensory and moisturizing properties, adapted viscosity, microbiological stability and are suitable for reformulating PEG/PPG products with similar skin feeling and sensory qualities like PEG/PPG-containing O/W emulsifiers.
They are suitable for the manufacture of O/W emulsions (sprays, lotions, creams, butters), have long shelf life and can be used in many products and application forms. Emulsifiers of polyglyceryl cosmetics stabilize emulsions also when faced with difficult ingredients like UV filters, difficult active agents, electrolyte-containing formulations.
Frequently, polyglyceryl cosmetics achieve the desired viscosity and stability only with the polyglyceryl emulsifier. Reduced time of production, because no additional polyacrylate-containing thickeners and texturizers are used, as well as possible hot/cold procedures allow significant energy savings.
Natural emulsifiers in polyglyceryl cosmetics
Some examples:
INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Natural emulsifier with good costs-performance ratio
Easy to handle, pelletized product
From regrowing raw material
np =1.0*, Ino = 1.0*
Easily biologically degradable
Vegan**
HLB: ~ 11
Benefits:
Robust stabilizing effect for medium to high viscosity
Suitable for all types of cosmetic O/W creams and lotions
Fulfils the requirements for formulating systems on natural base.
Suitable for formulations using organic acids as ‘natural’ preservatives (pH 4.5 – 5.5)
Able to build stable O/W creams and lotions without needing thickeners based on polyacrylate
In general, can be used for emulsions with pH 3.5 to 8.5.
Pleasant, light skin feeling, flexible absorption profile
Ideal to reformulate PEG/PPG products
Skin feeling and sensory qualities similar to usual PEG-containing O/W emulsifiers, e.g., glyceryl stearate; PEG-100 stearate
INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Universal O/W emulsifier for lotions, creams, butters
From regrowing raw material
np = 0.98*, Ino = 0.98*
Easily biologically degradable
Vegan**
HLB: ~ 12
Benefits
High stabilizing effect for medium to high viscosity (lotion, cream, butter)
Suitable for all types of cosmetic oils
Moisturizing properties, supports water-resistance
High compatibility with active ingredients, electrolytes and difficult active agents
Stable emulsions with pH 4.5 to 8.5
Possible to formulate heat- and freeze-stable emulsions.
Neutral or pleasant skin feeling
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate; Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Versatile natural O/W emulsifier
From regrowing raw material
np = 1.0*, Ino = 1.0*
Easily biologically degradable
Vegan**
HLB: ~ 13
Benefits
Extremely high stabilizing effect: stabilizes low-viscous and/or difficult to stabilize emulsions, like sprays or lotions.
Allows the manufacture of O/W emulsion on the base of energy-saving hot/cold procedures.
Moisturizing properties
Extraordinary formulation flexibility with regard to water-soluble UV filters or difficult to integrate ingredients (e.g., insect repellents, natural preservatives, urea, electrolytes)
Broad pH flexibility of 4.0 to 8.5
Light skin feeling, flexible sensory profile
*np = renewable percentage of total quantity of active ingredients according to distribution of molecular weights
Ino = natural origin index ISO 16128
**in accordance with definition of European Vegetarian Union
Cosmacon develops your polyglyceryl cosmetics
Polyglyceryl cosmetics fulfils consumers’ demand for natural, sustainably derived raw materials in cosmetics. Polyglyceryl derivatives are an ideal alternative to PEG/PPG products. The PEG/PPG-free emulsifiers of polyglyceryl cosmetics cover a broad HLB spectrum. They have the benefits of synthetic emulsifiers, without the disadvantages and allow the integration of difficult to include ingredients. In addition to new formulations, polygylceryl cosmetics offers the possibility to reformulate PEG/PPG-containing products. Above all, it distinguishes itself by using regrowing raw material.