Retinaldehyde
What is retinaldehyde?
Retinaldehyde is a so-called carotenoid and the aldehyde of retinol. It is a component of the rhodopsin molecule, which in turn is a light-sensitive chromophore and is crucial for colour-neutral vision. A rhodopsin molecule always consists of a non-protein part (i.e. the retinaldehyde) and a protein part, which in this case is called opsin. The fact that our grandmothers always claimed that carrots were important and good for our eyes is due to retinaldehyde.
To synthesize it our body needs beta-carotene, which is mainly found in yellow, orange, and reddish vegetables. Scientists also call retinaldehyde vitamin A aldehyde. Together with other similar compounds, it forms vitamin A. Strictly speaking, there is no one vitamin A, but instead a group of compounds that are all related to each other. These compounds are retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. Vitamin A is very important for our body.
A deficiency can lead to serious disturbances in our visual process. These often manifest themselves as so-called night blindness. But also flaky dry skin as well as premature or increased wrinkle formation are often due to a vitamin A deficiency.
Retinylaldehyde – a substance from the group of retionides
The collective term for all forms of vitamin A is retinoids. Our skin converts all retinoids into retinoic acid with the help of chemical reactions. This usually requires several steps. Retinol esters need three steps for the conversion, retinol needs two steps and retinaldehyde only one. There is a reason for this. In the conversion chain, retinaldehyde is much closer to retinoic acid than retinol esters and retinol, so it has a clear advantage.
Experts know: The more steps are required for the conversion, the weaker is the effect of the substance. Retinaldehyde with only one step is therefore the most effective variant. It has more or less the same effect as retinoic acid, which, however, is notorious for sometimes causing severe irritations such as redness, flaking, skin burning, dryness and increased sensitivity to light.
This is why products containing retinoic acid are also available on prescription.
They are prescribed for the treatment of acne, for example, because retinoic acid regulates cell function and stimulates the formation of healthy skin cells.
Nevertheless, with regard to skin care, retinoic acid naturally also has advantages, despite the known side effects, because it stimulates collagen formation and stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans, which means it improves skin hydration.
By the way, the term retinaldehyde means “belonging to the retina”. The retina is the skin of the eye.
An active ingredient with special abilities
Retinaldehyde is an ideal active ingredient for sophisticated anti-ageing cosmetics. It can help to stop the signs of time and make the skin look younger and smoother. It is important not to confuse it with retinol, because although the two substances differ in name by only a single vowel, the differences in effect are enormous. Studies showed that retinaldehyde works up to eleven times faster and better than the classic retinol.
As already mentioned, the effectiveness can at best be compared with the highly effective retinoic acid, except that retinaldehyde is neither prescription-only nor irritating to the skin.
The active ingredient therefore offers all the advantages of retinoic acid, but not its disadvantages. It helps skin cells produce more collagen while inhibiting the breakdown of collagen, leaving skin more youthful, elastic and firm. It also has the ability to accelerate the regeneration of the upper layers of the skin. Loose skin cells are therefore better and more quickly repelled and skin renewal really gets going again.
A true anti-aging superstar that is celebrated as the new revolutionary form of vitamin A, and not without reason. Alone or together with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin E, it offers the best basis for the demanding care of mature skin. Combinations with vitamin C, Q10, resveratrol and ceramides are also conceivable.
Ideally, holistic anti-aging should not consist of only one active ingredient. In most cases, the full effect can only unfold in combination with other valuable active ingredients.
Serums with retinaldehyde minimise fine lines and wrinkles and plump up the skin. As a rule, the results are visible after only a few weeks.
In high-quality products, the retinaldehyde concentration can be as low as 0.25 percent.
As another study (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30027612/) has shown, retinaldehyde is especially recommended for light ageing. The study compared chemical peelings with glycolic acid with the application of a cream containing retinaldehyde (0.1 percent application concentration). The astonishing result: The effectiveness of the retinaldehyde cream in terms of refining the skin structure was clearly superior to the peeling treatments. In addition, the eight-week treatment was well tolerated by all 25 test persons. There were significantly fewer side effects with an overall twelvefold reduction in intensity compared to the peelings. The researchers concluded that the application of a cream with retinaldehyde (0.1 percent) is as effective as three peels with glycolic acid, but is better tolerated and therefore represents a sensible alternative for the treatment of skin with photo-ageing. The randomised controlled trial was conducted in 2018.
Fact Sheet Retinaldehyde
INCI: Retinal
CAS number: 116-31-4
Alternative names: Retinaldehyde, vitamin A aldehyde, 11-cis-retinaldehyde.
Appearance: orange-red crystals
Molecular formula: C20H28O
Melting point: 62 degrees Celsius
Solubility: soluble in fat, almost insoluble in water
Effect: helps with all signs of skin ageing
Indications: innovative anti-ageing products, ideal for treating skin damage caused by photo-ageing
Profile Retinatural (ADEKA/DKSH)
INCI: Glycerin, Retinal
RETINATUREL contains natural retinal, which is produced by the halophilic microorganism Halobacterium salinarum. Retinal is the direct precursor of retinoic acid and has a proven anti-ageing effect, although the side effects known from other retinoids are considerably less severe. RETINATUREL is 100% natural and is produced by a bio-fermentation process.
Profile Retinal O5 (ADEKA/DKSH)
INCI: Glycerin, Retinal, Xanthophylls
RETINAL O5 combines the safe protective effect of Halorubin with the anti-ageing benefits of Retinaturel. This unique combination protects against blue light and counteracts photo-ageing. It is a powerful booster of cell protection and at the same time promotes the moisturisation of the skin.
Retinaldehyde, the new wonder weapon in the anti-aging sector
We have known retinol for a long time, but now retinaldehyde is on the rise, and that is a good thing. The very well-tolerated precursor of retinoic acid impresses with its outstanding efficacy and is already considered the ultimate in the anti-aging sector. Are you interested in high-quality premium formulations with retinaldehyde? Cosmacon develops great formulations for you!
Literature:
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- Effects of Topical Retinoids on Acne and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Skin of Color: A Clinical Review and Implications for Practice. Callender VD, Baldwin H, Cook-Bolden FE, Alexis AF, Stein Gold L, Guenin E.Am J Clin Dermatol. 2022 Jan;23(1):69-81
- Arnhold: Der Begriff „Retinoide“ In: Untersuchungen zum Metabolismus von Vitamin A / Retinoiden im Hinblick auf eine Risikoabschätzung ihrer teratogenen Wirkung beim Menschen; S.2; Dissertation; Braunschweig, 07.03.2000
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