Retinine
What is retinine 1 (or retinal)?
Retinine 1 (or retinal) is a so-called carotenoid and the aldehyde of retinol. It is a component of the rhodopsin molecule, which in turn is a light-sensitive chromophore and is crucial for colour-neutral vision. A rhodopsin molecule always consists of a non-protein part (i.e. the retinine 1 (or retinal)) and a protein part, which in this case is called opsin.
The fact that our grandmothers always claimed that carrots were important and good for our eyes is due to retinine 1 (or retinal). To synthesize it our body needs beta-carotene, which is mainly found in yellow, orange, and reddish vegetables. Scientists also call retinine 1 (or retinal) vitamin A aldehyde. Together with other similar compounds, it forms vitamin A.
Strictly speaking, there is no one vitamin A, but instead a group of compounds that are all related to each other. These compounds are retinol, retinine 1 (or retinal) and retinoic acid. Vitamin A is very important for our body. A deficiency can lead to serious disturbances in our visual process. These often manifest themselves as so-called night blindness. But also flaky dry skin as well as premature or increased wrinkle formation are often due to a vitamin A deficiency.
Retinoids – derivatives of vitamin A
The collective term for all forms of vitamin A is retinoids. Our skin converts all retinoids into retinoic acid with the help of chemical reactions. This usually requires several steps. Retinol esters need three steps for the conversion, retinol needs two steps and retinine 1 (or retinal) only one. There is a reason for this.
In the conversion chain, retinine 1 (or retinal) is much closer to retinoic acid than retinol esters and retinol, so it has a clear advantage. Experts know: The more steps are required for the conversion, the weaker is the effect of the substance. Retinine 1 (or retinal) with only one step is therefore the most effective variant.
It has more or less the same effect as retinoic acid, which, however, is notorious for sometimes causing severe irritations such as redness, flaking, skin burning, dryness and increased sensitivity to light. This is why products containing retinoic acid are also available on prescription. They are prescribed for the treatment of acne, for example, because retinoic acid regulates cell function and stimulates the formation of healthy skin cells. Nevertheless, with regard to skin care, retinoic acid naturally also has advantages, despite the known side effects, because it stimulates collagen formation and stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans, which means it improves skin hydration.
By the way, the term retinine 1 (or retinal) means “belonging to the retina”. The retina is the skin of the eye.
An active ingredient with special abilities
Retinine 1 (or retinal) is an ideal active ingredient for sophisticated anti-ageing cosmetics. It can help to stop the signs of time and make the skin look younger and smoother. It is important not to confuse it with retinol, because although the two substances differ in name by only a single vowel, the differences in effect are enormous. Studies showed that retinine 1 (or retinal) works up to eleven times faster and better than the classic retinol.
As already mentioned, the effectiveness can at best be compared with the highly effective retinoic acid, except that retinine 1 (or retinal) is neither prescription-only nor irritating to the skin. The active ingredient therefore offers all the advantages of retinoic acid, but not its disadvantages. It helps skin cells produce more collagen while inhibiting the breakdown of collagen, leaving skin more youthful, elastic and firm. It also has the ability to accelerate the regeneration of the upper layers of the skin. Loose skin cells are therefore better and more quickly repelled and skin renewal really gets going again.
A true anti-aging superstar that is celebrated as the new revolutionary form of vitamin A, and not without reason. Alone or together with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin E, it offers the best basis for the demanding care of mature skin. Combinations with vitamin C, Q10, resveratrol and ceramides are also conceivable.
Ideally, holistic anti-aging should not consist of only one active ingredient. In most cases, the full effect can only unfold in combination with other valuable active ingredients.
Serums with retinine 1 (or retinal) minimise fine lines and wrinkles and plump up the skin. As a rule, the results are visible after only a few weeks.
In high-quality products, the retinine 1 (or retinal) concentration can be as low as 0.05 percent.
As another study (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30027612/) has shown, retinine 1 (or retinal) is especially recommended for light ageing. The study compared chemical peelings with glycolic acid with the application of a cream containing retinine 1 (or retinal) (0.1 percent application concentration). The astonishing result: The effectiveness of the retinine 1 (or retinal) cream in terms of refining the skin structure was clearly superior to the peeling treatments.
In addition, the eight-week treatment was well tolerated by all 25 test persons. There were significantly fewer side effects with an overall twelvefold reduction in intensity compared to the peelings. The researchers concluded that the application of a cream with retinine 1 (or retinal) (0.1 percent) is as effective as three peels with glycolic acid, but is better tolerated and therefore represents a sensible alternative for the treatment of skin with photo-ageing. The randomised controlled trial was conducted in 2018.
Fact Sheet Retinine 1 (or retinal)
INCI: Retinal
CAS number: 116-31-4
Alternative names: Retinine 1 (or retinal), vitamin A aldehyde, 11-cis-retinine 1 (or retinal).
Appearance: orange-red crystals
Molecular formula: C20H28O
Melting point: 62 degrees Celsius
Solubility: soluble in fat, almost insoluble in water
Effect: helps with all signs of skin ageing
Indications: innovative anti-ageing products, ideal for treating skin damage caused by photo-ageing
Retinine 1 (or retinal), the new wonder weapon in the anti-aging sector
We have known retinol for a long time, but now retinine 1 (or retinal) is on the rise, and that is a good thing. The very well-tolerated precursor of retinoic acid impresses with its outstanding efficacy and is already considered the ultimate in the anti-aging sector. Are you interested in high-quality premium formulations with retinine 1 (or retinal)? Cosmacon develops great formulations for you!
Literature:
- Reversal of skin aging with topical retinoids; Bradley A Hubbard 1 , Jacob G Unger, Rod J Rohrich; Reconstr Surg 2014 Apr;133(4):481e-490e
- Tretinoin peel: a critical view.; Sumita JM, Leonardi GR, Bagatin E; Bras Dermatol. 2017 May-Jun;92(3):363-366
- Isotretinoin and Timing of Procedural Interventions: A Systematic Review With Consensus Recommendations.; Spring LK, Krakowski AC, Alam M, Bhatia A, Brauer J, Cohen J, Del Rosso JQ, Diaz L, Dover J, Eichenfield LF, Gurtner GC, Hanke CW, Jahnke MN, Kelly KM, Khetarpal S, Kinney MA, Levy ML, Leyden J, Longaker MT, Munavalli GS, Ozog DM, Prather H, Shumaker PR, Tanzi E, Torres A, Velez MW, Waldman AB, Yan AC, Zaenglein AL.; JAMA Dermatol. 2017 Aug 1;153(8):802-809
- Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review.; Imhof L, Leuthard D.; Dermatology. 2021;237(2):217-229
- Skin aging: Pathophysiology and innovative therapies; Boismal F, Serror K, Dobos G, Zuelgaray E, Bensussan A, Michel L.; Med Sci (Paris). 2020 Dec;36(12):1163-1172
- A randomized, double-blind, controlled comparative trial of the anti-aging properties of non-prescription tri-retinol 1.1% vs. prescription tretinoin 0.025; Elizabeth T Ho , Nathan S Trookman, Brian R Sperber, Ronald L Rizer, Ralph Spindler, Sujatha Sonti, Vincent Gotz, Rahul Mehta; J Drugs Dermatol 2012 Jan;11(1):64-9
- Theoretical Study of the Photoisomerization Mechanism of All-Trans-Retinyl Acetate.; Kochman MA, Palczewski K, Kubas A.; J Phys Chem A. 2021 Sep 30;125(38):8358-8372
- Design and Engineering of „Green“ Nanoemulsions for Enhanced Topical Delivery of Bakuchiol Achieved in a Sustainable Manner: A Novel Eco-Friendly Approach to Bioretinol.; Lewińska A, Domżał-Kędzia M, Maciejczyk E, Łukaszewicz M, Bazylińska U.; Int J Mol Sci. 2021 Sep 18;22(18):10091
- Effects of Topical Retinoids on Acne and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Skin of Color: A Clinical Review and Implications for Practice. Callender VD, Baldwin H, Cook-Bolden FE, Alexis AF, Stein Gold L, Guenin E.Am J Clin Dermatol. 2022 Jan;23(1):69-81
- Arnhold: Der Begriff „Retinoide“ In: Untersuchungen zum Metabolismus von Vitamin A / Retinoiden im Hinblick auf eine Risikoabschätzung ihrer teratogenen Wirkung beim Menschen; S.2; Dissertation; Braunschweig, 07.03.2000
- Anti-Irritant Strategy against Retinol Based on the Genetic Analysis of Korean Population: A Genetically Guided Top-Down Approach.; Kang S, Kim K, Jun SH, Lee S, Kim J, Shin JG, Kim Y, Kim M, Park SG, Kang NG.Pharmaceutics. 2021 Nov 25;13(12):2006