Sebum management
Sebum is formed in the sebaceous glands located in the dermis. In them, the sebocytes produce lipids until they finally burst. Then the sebum, which also contains the sebocytes as well as horny cells of the follicle wall, is released through the follicle orifice onto the skin surface and distributed by friction or on the scalp through the hair and over the hair.
Most sebaceous glands are located in the T-zone and scalp. Their activity is genetically determined, hormonally controlled, decreases with age and can be subject to seasonal fluctuations.
If sebum is produced in excess, this leads to skin impurities, greasy shine on the skin. Pores widen or become clogged, hair becomes sticky, dirt adheres more quickly.
If the follicle openings become clogged with dirt, sebum, and horny cells, the dark-coloured plugs are visible in open blackheads, while they appear as yellowish nodules on the skin surface in closed comedones. Acne bacteria can multiply in sebum plugs and cause inflammation.
Blemished skin is not only a problem of puberty, but also occurs in adults. One reason is the excessive formation of sebum. The pores widen and the skin becomes greasy and shiny.
Various external factors can throw the sebaceous gland activity out of balance: aggressive skin cleansing, disturbance of the skin microbiome, clogging of the sebaceous glands by certain oils, emulsifiers, or air pollutants.
Appropriate cosmetic care for sebum management contributes to the well-being, health, and aesthetic appearance of the skin.
In the following, we present three active ingredients for sebum management that have different focal points.
Fine-pored, matt skin with the wild pistachio from Chios
The mastic tree or shrub, also called wild pistachio (Pistacia lentiscus), is typical of the maquis vegetation in the Mediterranean countries. Mastic resin is suitable for coating oil paintings, as a spice in pastries as well as for perfume extraction. Its pharmaceutical properties include astringent, antiseptic, antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory effects.
However, only the mastic trees in the south of the Greek island of Chios secrete the typical resin when the bark is scratched. For this reason, mastic products from the island of Chios are allowed to be labelled “protected designation of origin” (PDO).
The active ingredient PoreAway™ (trade name, Mibelle Bochemistry) uses this aromatic resin to refine and mattify oily, blemished skin.
Since the mastic oleoresin is not water-soluble, a special technique was used to produce a water-soluble mastic preparation that is well-suited for cosmetic applications and easy to incorporate.
The active ingredient was tested on blemished skin with dilated pores and skin with oily shine and a tendency to acne.
Pore openings were reduced and the skin surface was improved overall. Open and closed comedones and oily shine were significantly reduced.
The test subjects perceived an improved skin quality and stated that the skin appeared purer, clearer and mattified. The effect was visible after 28 days.
In vitro, inhibition of 5α-reductase I was demonstrated. (The enzyme converts testosterone into a more active form and promotes sebum formation).
PROFILE:
INCI: PoreAway™ (standard version): Pistacia Lentiscus Gum/Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum, Lecithin, Glycerin, Alcohol, Aqua.
PoreAway™ oA (version without alcohol): Pistacia Lentiscus Gum / Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Aqua.
Trade name: PoreAway™
Description: liquid, water soluble, alcohol-free version available, no preservatives.
Recommended use concentration: 2 – 5 %.
Effect: sebum management, reduces pore size, reduces impurities, mattifies
TCM plant for sebum management
Oily facial skin is often accompanied by oily scalp and hair, blemishes, and inflammation.
When choosing an active ingredient for sebum management, it is essential to curb the activity of the sebaceous glands while maintaining and improving the protective function of sebum for the skin barrier.
One of the plants that is one of the top ten medicinal plants of traditional Chinese medicine also convinces with its effectiveness for balanced sebum management in skin and hair care.
The roots of astragalus (Astragalus membranaceus), also called Mongolian trabant, have been used for over 2,500 years to strengthen qi, the body’s life energy. Astragalus root extract improves the immune system, metabolism, and microcirculation.
The liposomal active ingredient with the trade name AstraForce (Mibelle Biochemistry) uses the properties of astragalus root to reduce sebum production in oily facial/scalp skin and oily hair, reduce impurities, irritation, and inflammation, while improving skin firmness, smoothness and moisture.
In vitro, AstraForce has been shown to reduce the formation of oil droplets in sebocytes. The active ingredient prevents skin blemishes by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme lipase, which breaks down sebum into free fatty acids that act as inflammatory mediators.
In the clinical study, it reduced the amount of sebum on the scalp, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improved the skin barrier.
Balanced sebum management was achieved in oily facial/scalp skin, reducing sebum production without compromising the natural skin protective barrier.
Skin blemishes and inflamed areas decreased
Skin firmness and hydration were increased, even under stressful conditions.
Skin felt soothed; appeared clear and refined.
PROFILE:
INCI: AstraForce (Standard Version): Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Aqua
AstraForce pf (preservative free version): Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Alcohol, Glycerin, Lecithin, Aqua
Trade name: AstraForce
Description: Liquid, water-soluble, alcohol-free, preservative-free version available.
Recommended concentration: 0.5 – 2 %.
Effect: Sebum management for face/head skin and hair, improves skin barrier
Black bee harmonises the microflora
The microflora, also called microbiome, protects the skin from harmful bacteria and pathogens with its specific composition of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, viruses. As the outermost barrier, the film is not only exposed to stresses such as UV light, environmental pollutants, and household chemicals, but can also be attacked by frequent washing of the skin. The microflora gets out of balance and can be temporarily colonised by harmful bacteria. A healthy microflora can soon restore its normal homeostasis after such challenges. In contrast, a permanently disturbed microflora can lead to acne or neurodermatitis.
The fermented honey of the rare dark bee Apis mellifera mellifera has been proven to support faster regeneration of the skin flora and skin barrier after washing.
The honey of this extremely resistant dark bee is produced in remote Swiss mountain valleys and fermented with Zymomonas mobilis bacteria. It is the basis of the active ingredient with the trade name Black BeeOme™ (Mibelle Biochemistry).
This old variety of bee is very hardy compared to modern high performance honey bees and amazes with its winter hardiness. It also appears to be immune to the Varroa mite, which is wiping out bee colonies worldwide.
The Zymomonas ferment extract gives the active ingredient its prebiotic activity, which positively influences the composition and activity of the skin microbiome.
In vitro and clinical studies have shown that Black BeeOme™ provides faster regeneration and repopulation of the microbiome immediately after washing, accelerates skin barrier restoration and reduces transepidermal water loss. Within two weeks, the successful sebum management, redness reduction and improved skin quality were clearly visible.
The improvement in blemished skin and sebum management was demonstrated in a test using a sheet mask with Black BeeOme™. The participants had blemished and reddened skin. They lived in urban environments with high levels of air pollution, which exposes the skin microbiome to severe stress. Initial improvements were visible after only 15 minutes. After three days, the skin appeared matt-finished, more balanced, clearer.
PROFILE:
INCI: Black BeeOme™ (standard version*): (Honey + Zymomonas Ferment) Extract, Alcohol, Aqua
Black BeeOme™ pwd (powder version, without preservatives, 2-fold concentrated*): (Honey + Zymomonas Ferment) Extract, Maltodextrin, Aqua
Trade name: Black BeeOme™.
Description: liquid, water soluble, powder version available without alcohol and preservatives, COSMOS approved.
Recommended concentration for use: 1 – 2 %.
Effect: accelerates the regeneration of the skin microflora after stress, strengthens the skin barrier, sebum management, for matt, clear skin.
Sebum management requires a delicate touch
On the one hand, the sebum formation of oily skin should be reduced, on the other hand, there should be enough sebum to keep the skin supple and moist. In addition, the skin should appear fine-pored and matt and always be able to regenerate quickly even under stressful conditions. A number of aspects must therefore be taken into account in cosmetic sebum management.
Literature:
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Dall’Oglio F, Nasca MR, Gerbino C, Micali G.Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2022 Aug 6;15:1537-1548.
An innovative approach to the topical treatment of acne.
Sparavigna A, Tenconi B, De Ponti I, La Penna L.Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Apr 9;8:179-85
Management of Seborrhea and Enlarged Pore Size with a Hydrogel Containing Ficus Fistulosa Extract.
Ditthawutthikul N, Saithong P, Thawee P, Rakarcha S, Kanghae A.J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2021 Jul;14(7):42-45.
Hop Extract Acts as an Antioxidant with Antimicrobial Effects against Propionibacterium Acnes and Staphylococcus Aureus.
Weber N, Biehler K, Schwabe K, Haarhaus B, Quirin KW, Frank U, Schempp CM, Wölfle U.Molecules. 2019 Jan 9;24(2):223
An Overview of the Diagnosis and Management of Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Dall’Oglio F, Nasca MR, Gerbino C, Micali G.Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2022 Aug 6;15:1537-1548