Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic acid has long been considered a veritable wonder weapon in the anti-aging segment. Just one gram can bind up to six liters of water, which means it gives the skin more elasticity and tone by acting like a water reservoir. There are different types of hyaluronic acid on the market. Short-chain hyaluronic acid fragments penetrate relatively deeply into the skin and cushion it there from the inside, while long-chain hyaluronic acid can provide long-lasting moisture and protect against dehydration, especially in the superficial layers of the skin.
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate is even more effective. It is considered a real innovation and is the ultimate in exclusive cosmetic products. But what actually is acetylation and why is acetylated hyaluronic acid special?
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate: how acetylation works in general
Acetylation is a chemical process and describes the exchange of a hydrogen atom by an acetyl group. The exchange can take place either at the functional groups (-OH, -SH, -NH2) or directly at a -C-H bond. An acetyl group in turn denotes the chemical structure -C(O)CH3. It is composed of the carbonyl and methyl groups and forms the acyl radical of acetic acid. Hence the name: acetyl is derived from the Latin term “acetum” (vinegar).
For example, drugs obtained by acetylation have been known for a very long time: Acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin) obtained in chemically pure form is certainly the preparation most commonly used in this context. Another example: the acetylation of morphine produces heroin (diacetylmorphine). And oxaceprol, a very well-known active ingredient used, among other things, in drugs to treat degenerative joint diseases such as arthritis, is also obtained by acetylation.
Acetylated hyaluronic acid and its advantages
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a highly active ingredient of the latest generation, which is used in exclusive premium anti-aging products. With good reason: sodium acetylated hyaluronate is in fact able to penetrate the skin significantly deeper than other classic hyaluronic acids. It has both lipophilic and hydrophilic properties. The acetyl group, which is strongly lipophilic, helps acetylated hyaluronic acid adhere firmly, which significantly reduces an evaporative effect. The skin is supplied with moisture throughout the day.
With the active ingredient sodium acetylated hyaluronate, the first signs of skin aging can therefore be counteracted within a very short time. Thanks to the increased stability against hyaluronidases (degradation enzymes), a long-lasting effect is also guaranteed. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate therefore makes the skin significantly more elastic and supple, not least because it repairs damaged and/or rough skin by significantly improving the moisture content in the uppermost layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum). Studies have already shown that after regular application over four weeks (concentration: 0.1 percent sodium acetylated hyaluronate), the skin elasticity of volunteers was quite significantly increased by 1.6 times. The skin also appeared noticeably softer and smoother. Furthermore, the study showed that even two hours after application, the skin had a moisture content of 103.4 percent. By comparison, this value was 65.3 percent at the same time in test subjects who had used classic hyaluronic acid, and only 29.6 percent in a placebo group. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate keeps the skin well moisturized for a total of twelve hours.
It is ideal for serums, masks and creams.
Hyaluronic acid profiles
Sodium hyaluronate
International designations: Hyaluronic acid, sodium, salt
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
CAS number: 9067-32-7
Definition: the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan, may be high molecular weight or low molecular weight
Natural occurrences: among other things, a natural component of the dermis
Effect: binds moisture and preserves skin hydration
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate
International designation: Sodium Acetylhyaluronate
INCI: Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
CAS number: 287390-12-9
Effect: Sodium acetylated hyaluronate has a significantly better ability to retain moisture in the epidermis compared to classic hyaluronic acid. Improves skin elasticity, repairs the skin barrier, has a skin smoothing effect.
Production: by acetylation (see above).
Recommended dosage: 0.01 to 0.1 percent
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
International designations: Sodium salt, Hyaluronic acid, polymer with 1,1′-sulfonylbis[ethene].
Definition: a hyaluronic acid that adheres to a polymer structure so that it remains longer in the uppermost layers of the skin, where it provides improved hydration
CAS number: 105524-32-1
Effect: reduces transepidermal water loss, moisturizes, increases antioxidant activity.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
INCI: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
CAS number: 9004-61-9
Definition: the hydrolysate of hyaluronic acid obtained by acid, enzymes, or other hydrolysis processes.
Effect: penetrates into the lowest layers of the skin to moisturize it.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate
INCI: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Extraction: is produced by fermentation
Definition: In addition to the basic properties of hyaluronic acid, such as moisture retention and viscoelasticity, this variant has a special adhesiveness, which means that it is not easily rinsed off.
C12-13 alkyl glyceryl hydrolyzed hyaluronate
INCI: C12-13 Alkyl Glyceryl Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate
Effect: Improves the skin barrier, moisturizes the stratum corneum, repairs damaged skin.
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate
Acetylated hyaluronic acid is significantly more effective than classic hyaluronic acid and is the latest innovation in the anti-aging sector. It provides the skin with moisture, contributes to more elasticity, repairs the skin barrier and makes the skin noticeably smoother and more supple. Studies have already impressively proven its effectiveness. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate also leaves the skin feeling fresh and is non-sticky. Are you interested in the premium cosmetic ingredient sodium acetylated hyaluronate? Cosmacon will be happy to develop high-quality formulations for exclusive cosmetic products for you!
Sources:
The anti-wrinkles properties of sodium acetylated hyaluronate; Meunier M, et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022. PMID: 34708918.
Acetylated hyaluronic acid: enhanced bioavailability and biological studies; Saturnino C, Sinicropi MS, Parisi OI, Iacopetta D, Popolo A, Marzocco S, Autore G, Caruso A, Cappello AR, Longo P, Puoci F. Biomed Res Int. 2014;2014:921549.
Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy.; Essendoubi M, Gobinet C, Reynaud R, Angiboust JF, Manfait M, Piot O. Skin Res Technol. 2016. PMID: 25877232.
Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals; Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, Morgovan C, Rus LL, Vonica-Țincu AL, Loghin F. Molecules. 2021 Jul 22;26(15):4429.